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Jack94

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About Jack94

  • Birthday 30/04/1994

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    Warwick

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  1. Firstly, great choice picking the 350z for your next car, I had mine for 6 years and absolutely loved it! Bubbling wheel arches wouldn't put me off as long as they're properly rectified. You have to remember the car is 20 years old and done nearly 100k miles so some rust has to be expected, although it wouldn't hurt to get it up in the air to check there's nothing excessively crusty underneath if you can. Is it the fronts or rears? Or all of them? Fronts are a pretty straightforward/cheap repair because the wings just bolt on so can be easily replaced. Unfortunately the rears aren't so simple, they're part of the body so all the rust needs to be cut out, new metal welded in then painted (very expensive). With the rears some people just strip the metal back and repaint because it's far cheaper, but this is pointless really because the problem will come back within 12 months. I'd check with the owner how exactly they're going to get the repair done before going any further. Other than that if the car is tidy and has a full service history I'd say 6k is a pretty fair price.
  2. Looks like they're LMGT4's, in which case the centre caps were originally diamond cut to match the centre and lip of the wheel.
  3. I sold my zed (which was also £700 tax) within 11 days earlier this year, so can speak from experience. I agree with the above that a better written ad with more/better photos would help tremendously. Also try advertising on more places (gumtree, FB, ebay, Autotrader etc), I think most people only join on here when they've already bought one. Looks like a bargain for someone so can't see any reason why it wouldn't sell, although it is the wrong time of year to sell a convertible now unfortunately.
  4. I have Sport Contact 6's on the R8 and been very impressed with them. Haven't got much experience with Michelin but I find it hard to believe they'll be worth the £318 extra. I'd imagine both tyres will be pretty similar in terms of performance and wear rate.
  5. Personally I always use OEM filters, then usually use NGK plugs and Castrol oil. As well as the engine oil & filter, air filter and plugs I'd also do the gearbox oil, diff oil, coolant, brake fluid & clutch fluid.
  6. Welcome to the forum and well done for getting a neglected zed back on the road! The radiator fans are a common failure (carbon buildup causes the motor brushes to seize) so I wouldn't worry too much about the fact it's had aftermarket replacements fitted. As Davey has said though, if it's been sitting for that long the first thing I'd be doing is getting a full service. Best to get every fluid & filter replaced, and also plugs if they've never been done.
  7. Tarmacsportz are very knowledgeable with zeds, and pretty close to you (Derby). They should be able to diagnose your problem and supply whatever replacement parts are needed.
  8. Have you got one airbox or two? DE/Revup has one, HR has two...
  9. As Alex has said, sadly with the HR Nissan somehow decided it was a good idea to locate the slave cylinder within the gearbox, so you might as well replace all the consumables whilst you're in there. However if you've got a late registered rev-up then the slave cylinder is mounted externally so it's a far quicker/cheaper job to replace.
  10. I think it's proven that you can't really beat a standard Rev-up airbox with a good drop in filter when it comes to performance. However some people swear by CAI kits, which look great but they never really appealed to me due to how much effort they are to fit and then get to the filter when it needs cleaning/replacing. Also they're a lot lower down so more exposed to water etc. The gains/losses are pretty marginal so if you're happy with the look/sound of the cone filter you've got now I wouldn't worry about it too much, just giving you more ideas to consider.
  11. If you're going to spend the money replacing the filter have you considered other options? It looks like it'd just be sucking in hot air so a proper CAI or the original airbox with a decent drop in filter would be better performance wise?
  12. With the nicer weather and longer days here at last I finally had time to clay & wax after the usual wash. I used Bilt Hamber Autoclay (medium) & Bilt Hamber double speed wax, plus I coated all the exterior glass with Gtechniq G1 clearvision. Just a single step DA polish when I get the chance and the paintwork will be up to the standard I'd like. It was MOT time on Monday. I'm always a bit nervous when it's the first one in my ownership, you never know how honest the last test was. Thankfully it passed through with no advisories and the tester even commented how clean the emmisons were, which was a nice change to the zed scraping through with it's HFCs 😅 Lastly I added some custom wind deflectors 3D printed by someone in the USA on the R8 forum. Surprising how much such a little piece of plastic does actually help with the noise!
  13. Interesting video. I've never had Michelins so would've liked to try the PS5's next time, but sadly they aren't available in my rear size (305/30R19). The Goodyear's aren't either so I guess I'll be sticking with Conti!
  14. I used to get an overall average of around 23 mpg out of mine, and bear in mind they need to run on 98+ octane fuel. It's a 20 year old 3.5L V6 so it's always going to be thirsty, especially if you have a heavy right foot. I think gallery gaskets are pot luck really, they will fail eventually it's just a matter of when.
  15. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your hunt. You're right, the tax for 2006 onwards cars is double the earlier rate (roughly £600 vs £300) so that's something to consider. If you're after a HR though they're all in the higher bracket. All 350z's are getting old now so the main thing to look out for is rust, underneath and around all the arches. Radiator fans are prone to seizing due to carbon buildup in the motors, so check they both come on when the car is running and the AC is switched on. Oil gallery gaskets on the HR seem an inevitable failure and cost about 1k to have replaced, so check this has been done. During the test drive check the clutch operates how it should and the pedal fully returns when you take your foot off, the slave cylinder can be prone to fail. It's not an expensive part but it's inside the gearbox on the HR so very labour intensive job to replace. Obviously listen for knocks etc during the drive, suspension components wear out and eventually fail just like any other car. If you can then get the car up in the air it'd be worth doing to inspect all the bushes for cracks, splits etc. That's all I can think of off the top of my head, hope it helps.
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