Rob350

There in June lol

Does anyone know anywhere that's showing near silversone or Northampton or MIlton keyens ? ?

Just wondering if anyone has plans to watch this or is thinking of watching Joshua klitchko on the Saturday night before japfest?? I think the fight will be on around 10pm ish, anyone fancy a beer and a brawl somewhere?? It must be showing in a couple of pubs.

I think somthing like this is good, on the front or back of a hoodie, simple design, I'd have one

Slates I think you have just elected yourself as... "THE CHOSEN ONE" lol Skipton sounds good, about an hour away for me. I look forward to seeing what you have planned for us

Where abouts in Lancashire mate?

Someone needs to step up to the challenge and arrange a meet and lead us lost sheep to a nice road and good food lol

Iv had a drain on the battery from my CD player for the last 2months, (I actually went out today to remove my CD player and try to solve the problem then this happend lol) but with the drain my car would still start within 48 hours, after 48 hours it would be around 11.5 v and need jumping, but like I said within 45 hours its dropped to 8.7 v so has got extreamly worse, The CD player is out now so I'm going to replace the battery, try starting it, and make sure the drain has stopped, if still not starting I'm going to replace the motor. Could it possibly be anything to with the imobiliser system... letting it turn once then immobiliser kicking in ???

Well after attempting to jump start and it not working I pulled the jump leads off pulled the keys out and put the voltmetre on again and it was 12.5, i held the voltmetre on the terminals for 30 secs and it was slowly dropping about 0.1 every 3 seconds, 2 mins later it was 11.4, so was loosing charge very fast

Hi guys I'm sure your all sick of the sight of my name on here now with the constant long worded questions lol but I really do appreciate everyones advice and input, with that said, here's another one for you..... I came out to start the car this morning, put key in, turned ignition on and the fuel pump didn't prime, the voltmetre didn't move and only half the dashlights lit up. I hooked up some jump leads to my car off my dad's mond, the pump primed, voltmetre went up, all lights working..... turned the key and it only cranked over once then stopped. So I took the key out and tried again same thing, the starter just turned once and then nothing... My starter motor has gone right???? Is it difficult to get at to swap over??? And could traders pm me a price for a good used one please. Read on at risk of boredom.... When I 1st tried starting the car today and nothing happend I tested the battery with a voltmetre before I put jump leads to it, it was 8.7 v, this has gone from fully charged Thursday 5pm to 8.7 v today at 2 pm (so about 45 hours) This is a Bosch s4 battery that was tested around a month ago (I removed the battery and trickle charged till full then left in garage for 5 days and tested with voltmetre everyday and it never dropped abit) The battery is dead right??? Not holding charge Whats the chances my battery and starter have both popped their clogs at exactly the same time?? Cheers guys

Iv clicked on the link and can't see where you request the license summary. Could you help me out please???

Welcome, im from near preston, so maybe see you at botany bay jap 2 jap sometime. Are you going to japfest??

I went for a spirited drive yesterday with no problem, got home turned the car off, come to it this morning started it up and it sounded like I'd just fired up a 50 year old abandoned tractor lol. Iv got a k1 y pipe back exhaust and the weld has split on the centre section where the resonator joins the pipe, so ideally I'm just after another k1 centre section but I'm struggling to fine one and I don't think say a k2 or Oem centre section will fit to the k1 back section. Ive asked one place if it weldable, they didn't look at the split but I described it to them and they said there's a high chance the welder would just melt through the resonator casing making it even harder to repair, so I'll just get a new exhaust y pipe back I think. Do you think it could be weldable ?? It's a clean split all the way around the original weld although the pipes abit dirty, could be cleaned though. Ifni was to get a new y pipe back, I love the deep burble of the k1 so would like something very similar, I have seen one or two k2 for sale, but I'm not too sure what they sound like. I absolutely hate raspy/tinny exhausts, somthing deep burbbly only I don't want brand new either as Iv just blitzed a grand on tyres and suspension arms etc, Let me know what exhausts you all have for sale please, i dont mind collection or courier Sorry for the long thread thought I'd get all the info in one post, cheers guys lets see what you've got

Iv been doing ALOT of reading recently and front toe out helps turn in but loses high speed stability, so i thought just a little bit toe out as a happy medium. And rear toe in helps rear stability, but also as you accelerate the rears naturally"twist" in a toe out direction because of the slight play in the rubber bushes if you know what I mean , so i thought some toe in would compensate for that. In all.. a lot of theory not so much practice lol

Sounds like he's on stock kit. The front is all stock but I had just fitted adjustable camber arms and toe bolts on the rear thinking the rear was massively out. Before alignment I had -1.3ish camber both rear sides and i asked for -1.5, so i could have probably got away without rear camber arms with the setup I've got

I'm not too sure, when I first went in I asked for my own specs, they said no problem but their machine does it in mm and I asked for degrees but its ok he said he do the maths and convert it.... So I asked for 0.08 toe in in the rear And 0.05 toe out on the front. When I got back he said heed got them close but their machine only goes to 1 decimal place, so i thought no problem, then looked at the result sheet and heed made it 0.00 toe in the rear (surly you would have rounded it up from 0.08 to 0.1 instead of rounding down) then front toe he rounded down again to 0.00 from 0.05, but me being too British just accepted and thought in reality 0.05 degrees really isn't going to make any differance really unless I was Lewis Hamilton lol The only thing I could fault is the fact I asked for 0.08 toe in on the rear and he gave me 0.00 I defo needed an alignment though, front left toe was -3.4 and front right toe was +4.1

It's been done today, I ended up with.... Front camber -1.4 (cant adjust this as dont have front adjustable arms and im lowered 30mm) Rear camber -1.5 both sides Front toe 0.00 both sides (I asked for slightly toe out) Rear toe 0.00 both sides (I asked for slightly toe in) The ad08Rs are brand new so a little bit slippy at the min, im going to give them a few 100miles to bed in a little, then give it a good thrashing and go from there. What do you all think?? If I was to change anything I'd do 0.1deg toe out at the front and maybe 0.5 deg toe in at the rear.

Thanks for the reply, I understand what you mean with the camber/tyres now, i didnt realise that different tyres had that difference from inner to outer. The thing is I'm not going to a race place to be able to talk numbers and dynamics with, the nearest recommend place is 30mins away and £150. Im going to a decent tyre place near me iv always used and iv always had my specs set to the middle of factory specs and then just mastered the way the car handles. But this time I'd like to try and make the car a little bit better with an educated guess base (hence aggressive side of oem) I'm not after the the car to handle perfectly to knock as many 10ths off my lap times as possible I'm just after a decent basic setup to try and get rid of at least some of the understeer

Googled factory specs http://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/470510-factory-alignment-specs.html

I was thinking of telling them to set the car within the factory specs but to the more aggressive side. E.G Rear camber -2.2 to -1.1 is factory spec... so I'd go -1.5 As for front toe I'd like a better turn in to elimate abit of the understeery characteristics, Front toe 0.00 to 0.10 is factory... so I'd go 0.00 (maybe even -0.01 each side) for turn in Rear toe 0.05 to 0.10 is factory... so I'd go 0.08 each side What do you think? Am I on the right lines for toe settings? As for rear camber, (ekona) you say neg 2 is too much for AD08R... how is it too much for my yokos but not not for the Michelin? I'm genuinely interested Im not trying to sound cocky or anything. If neg 2 is too much, then 1.5 maybe?? I'm not expecting you to give me exact numbers for my setup, just some good advice and pointers to help me decide. Cheers

Hi guys, So iv just received 4 brand new yoko AD08 Rs, im going for fitting and full alignment on Friday. Was wondering what to tell the alignment people what I want?? I want it close to standard settings so my tyres last, but was thinking of telling them to add say an extra degree of camber onto stock setting if you know what i mean, just to make it that little better in the corners. So say stock is 1 degree negative camber all round, would going 2 degrees all round make much differance? Is an extra 1 degree a lot?? I'm on 18" rays, lowered 30mm eibach springs, adjustable rear camber arms and toe bolts, front is all stock apart from the 30mm springs obviously. I would really like abit of advice off you guys, you all know these cars so well. Cheers Rob

I think emperor tuning has some for around 30 quid on ebay

The rears have very little camber and toe adjustment as Iv just learnt, so iv just had to buy a pair of adjustable rear camber arms, and a pair of toe bolts for around 180 from cougar store now everything is pulled straight again, apparently the fronts don't have much adjustment either but they won't be MASSIVELY out at the maximum adjustment so youl have a smidgets neg camber on front I think. If you want the fronts to be perfect aswell you'll need front adjustable arms, these are around 400 though. I didn't know much either at the time so i rung up cougar store and explained my situation and that I didn't know what I needed, and they were great, told me exactly what I needed and the kind of prices I'd be looking at .

Iv been looking at renewal quotes today out of interest (its not till June and I'll be 26 by then and 4 years ncd) anywhoo... 25 years old, 3years ncd, license for 7 years... unmodded insurance on money supermarket was £1040... modded quote (told them about exhaust, wheel spacers, window tint, and said suspension because I'm on lowering spring's and adjustable camber arms) came in at £2120... WOW This is my first modded car ever, I think I'm going to try the insurers on here when the time comes (Chris Knott, Adrian flux) and see what they say, otherwise possibly remove mods. (Cheers olly )

What Bluetooth obd2 thing works with torque? Any suggestions? I fancy trying it out