Rob350

I've just pulled a 15 and fuse under the foot well, labelled "elec sys" and the ampage drops to 0.08, just googled that fuse and it's like 15 different systems. 🤮

So I've got the doors open, door latches closed, bonnet open, bonnet latch and switch closed. Locked it. Left it for 30mins, then put multi metre on between the neg wire and neg post, on 10 amp setting, you can see the reading vary for 30seconds then it settles at 0.14 and doesnt move. The only fuses I havnet pulled are the big 1s, the big square 1s ect. I've pulled all the flat 10 and 15 amp 1s 1 by 1, next to the battery and the 1s in the drivers football and the metre still reads 0.14. When I pulled the rear lights fuse at 1st it dropped to 0.1, then put it back in, it went to 0.14 again, so checked and I had a license plate bulb out, so I put a new 1 in, tried again and it's still at 0.14.. pulled the fuse, it just stays at 0.14. Pulled the new bulb out and tried the fuse again and it doesnt drop anymore. And this is why it's frustrating me so much, I thought I found abit of an issue, went to solve it and it's not dropping amps anymore.

So... charged the battery in my house on cteck, it held for 3 days on full charge, put it in the car, 24hours later.. no starty. So pretty sure my battery is good, I've been doing drain tests today, multimeter on 10amps between the neg terminal and neg wire, I'm getting -0.14 drain. So too much. It's weird that its literally come out the blue suddenly having a drain, I've done nothing to the car and theres no aftermarket head unit or anything. Anyway. I pulled all the fuses 1 by 1, and nothing it's still at -0.14, I did the fuses next to the battery aswell as the fuses below the steering wheel. I disconnected the alternator aswell to see if that was drawing but no. I'm completely and absolutly lost now.. I cleaned both terminals and wires for good battery connection... I've looked at the left and right side earth to chassis connection they look good. Any ideas guys. Its proper pissing me off now as I cant find anything wrong and I really need my car. Appreciate any help or ideas guys. Cheers.

Cheers guys, I did think its probably too low, but I also thought it's a good bosch s4 or s5 6month old battery, it started fine everyday apart from today for some reason. Anyway just jumped it and started straight up, drove it for 20mins, got back, it's at 14.4 whilst running so alternaters working, turned off and it's at 12.68 so plenty in the tank. I'll see what it's at in the morning to see if theres a drain for some reason. If so I'll take battery out and recon it on my ctek.

Hi, went to start my 04 350 this morning not had problem in 2 years and all I get Is a click. Turn key, all lights come on, pump primes, press clutch, turn key to start and it just clicks once. I can hear the pump priming, I've tested the clutch switch, and now bypassed it temporarily. The internal voltmeter is half on the 12v line. Multimeter on terminals says its 12.14, so maybe a touch low? Its a new s4 or s5 battery in march, ive cleaned both terminals and connectors. I'm guessing it's the starter possibly?? But would it go from working no problem to absolutely nothing, broken?? I've tried rocking it in gear but I am on my own. Its pissing with rain at the min so dont want to be crawling under to test voltage on starter and whack it with a hammer. Any help or advise would be great.. it's my daily so need it sorted asap. Cheers guys

@Adrian@TORQEN Thanks for the diagram but the pipe I need isnt on there, I believe it's a oil cooler/warmer pipe?? Its definatly got coolant in it. It connects at the oil filter housing pic1, goes from rubber to the metal pipe I need pic 2, then the metal pipe runs under all the pulleys, then under the aircon condenser, then up between the engine and condenser and connects back to a rubber hose beneath the pipe you have for sale.

So changing the belts on my 04 Z and tapped this metal coolant pipe, its proper crusty so cracked straight away. It goes from the oil filter across and up behind the alternator. Does anyone know what it's called?? Or where to find part number etc so I can buy a replacment. Cheers guys.

Found the thread...

So my DE is using oil like 70% of them out there. Though mine is pretty thirsty at 700ml/1k with 5/30 Anyway.. I'm going to go 10/40 now.. The question is.. I have always used castrol edge in my cars.. I'm sure I've read a thread on here were someone said they used a fuchs oil it was fine, then went castrol edge and it started using it, then back to fuchs and was fine again. I have read even with other cars that some castrol oils are thinner/burn more than other oils even though the the same weights have been used. Can anyone tell me from experience what oils burns less than Castrol?? I'm sure the thread said titan fuchs, theres a few different titan fuchs to choose from though. Any experiences or knowledge would be great. Thanks..

Do you have a wheel nut locking key by any chance. If I take a pic of my lockers?? Cheers

Ill pay half If you could split?? I need the locking nut key and standard 4 bolts. I need to get rid of the lockers and I've lost the key.

I pmed regarding the coilovers, hopefully I was quick enough for 1st dibs. If you could let me know if I was fast enough that would be great. Cheers

I will be looking to organise something in a month or so round the bolton by bowland area. Meet up near clitheroe, lancashire and drive on some twisties. Just waiting for things to relax a little. I've organised quite few over the years.

I've PM'ed mate. Cheers

Hi, I'm after a set of 20mm and 25mm spacers also after some coilovers, please let me know if you have anything. Cheers Rob