Erni902

Will check back in next week once I have had the flywheel alignment checked as this could also be the cause of this issue.

Sent some datalogs to Mark and he has had a look and suggested a couple of things. Next on the agenda is getting her in to check the flywheel alignment. Clutch and flywheel were fitted about 1yr and 12-13k miles ago (by the previous owner) and the issue has only seemed to rear its head now but the codes may have been logged as soon as it was fitted. As I never had or drove a Zed before this one and the flywheel was fitted by the previous owner (well by a garage while she owned the car) I never knew how it drove before it was fitted so have nothing to compare it to. Will check back in next week with the verdict.

Spotted around 1030hrs this morning, you were heading waiting to turn into the Carpet Right car park as I went past. I flashed and you waved, just wondered if you were on here.

Swapped coil pack with the middle one on the drivers side as this was the one that seemed to be blackened with carbon type deposit.....No change, same codes, same misfire.

Happy days, interested to see the the difference or lack thereof in the front to the back of the car. If its negligible then I may be persuaded to make a compromise and go for front end and roof.

Bank 2 sensor changed and what a nightmare!! Unable to get eyes on the actual sensor but managed to feel around for it, got the bolt undone and the connector removed, took about 15 minutes to get the blighter out owing to no space for leverage. Anyway new sensor installed, dtc's cleared, fired up fine, went for test drive and misfire still there, checked codes and the P0345 code is still there also. At least I know this sensor is now good and these are apparantly prone to going bad between 70-90k miles so if not now then they probably would soon anyway so for peace of minds sake its done. Next on the agenda is the coil pack. I have only got the 1 good one (well the one brand new one anyway) so no idea how to trace the bad one other than swapping one and seeing if the fault remains, if so then swap it over to another one and keep going until either the bad coil pack is found or the fault still remains and something else is the issue. Sounds like I have been fobbing you guys off above by changing the sensors and not the coil pack as suggested but I simply went with the easiest ones first. For the coil packs the intake etc needs removing. Are there any parameters I can datalog while driving that will show up the cylinder thats not firing when this occurs? If there is then it will make it much easier lol.

Be sure to get us some pics after its done mate and let us know about the service you receive and the overall job. Hope you dont think I was being an ar$e by saying save up, I totally get where your coming from and I feel the same. I decided a while ago that for me its either all or nothing and to save up for the 'all' option would take me forever and then I would probably need another respray hence why Ive decided its now nothing haha. Good luck mate and hope you get a good service and are happy with the results.

A good PPF installer will do a full and thorough detailing of the car beforehand. This is where the price is pushed up. They will need the car for several days even after the detail to fit the PPF to a high enough standard that will leave you never knowing it was applied. As Dan said alot of PPF installers will not do the detailing and will have a whole car done in 1 or 2 days. The issue with the proper and thorough PPF install is that because of the skill involved with making it look almost un-noticeable and like Dan says NOT with film clearly visible at the edges you are going to pay a ridiculous amount of money! I would get either the whole car done or none, purely because of the prep the PPF panels will be absolutely gleaming and the rest of the car will look terrible even if its not had a bad paint job. I have been looking into doing this purely because of Seen Through Glass and Supercars of London but decided against it purely for the cost being nearly what the car (the Zed) is worth! I have seen examples of a few places and you really do get what you pay for. As for the self healing part, I have had this demonstrated to me and it really is impressive! You can rub a car vigorously with a wire brush and it scratches like mad but as soon as the sun comes out it just smooths itself out. I have only seen an accelerated version of the sun coming out by way of a heat gun but it works and can withstand someone brushing past your car with their handbag (lets face it its normally the women). Not sure how well it would stand up to a keying though. Anyway, to summarise my war and peace above: If your going to do it, do the whole car Save up for a bit longer as you get what you pay for Make sure the service you choose includes a thorough detailing beforehand.

Gone to swap the Cam position sensor on Bank 1 (Driver side) dead easy but once removed I noticed the old sensor and the new sensor were completely different. I checked and apparently Zeds from 03-07 can take both part numbers. So installed the new one and she idled very high then after a couple of revs she was missing all over the place on low throttle. Connected my UpRev cable and this time P0340 was thrown up which is Camshaft position circuit malfunction. Switched the engine off and re-installed the original sensor, started revved and reset dtc codes. All is fine no missing on revving in neutral and code has gone so it looks like certainly my for my car (04 DE non-revup) part number 23731-6J90B is the sensor part number to get and NOT 23731-6J90C!! I shall be getting my money back for this one I think. Just about to swap the Bank 2 sensor (the one for which has thrown the P0345 code up. Although this is a right PITA as you can kind of feel the connector and the bolt but can't see the damn thing!

Yes mate the timing chain(s), tensioners, guides, sprockets etc have all been changed along with all aux belts and water pump etc. Yes the timing advance is at idle. Ill PM you my email add and Ill runn a log of the correct parameters for you.

Ideally you would connect the Negative terminal of the good battery to chassis ground, that is any metal part of the chassis. The reason for this is 2 fold; 1) it is slightly easier to actually jump start the car from an electrical perspective but mainly from a theoretical point of view. 2) when connecting up there may well be a spark, it would be sensible to have this spark as far away from the battery as possible owing to the way the hydrogen reacts. Personally whenever jump starting a car I have always connected to the battery terminals and never had a problem. As the dead cells are not charged then the sparking becomes less of an issue. This issue really comes into play when you have fully charged a battery and are connecting it up. You should leave it as long as possible (usually 12hrs) between disconnecting the battery from its charging source and connecting back into the car. If you charge the battery in situ then you dont have the sparking problem. Basically, in an ideal world connect to chassis ground. In the real world, you shouldnt ever see an issue with connecting directly to battery. Hope that helps.

So thanks to SuperStu I now have an UpRev cable. Pulled the codes and confirmed all 5 I pulled above were correct. I have a replacement coil pack coming tomorrow and already have both cam position sensors (because if one has gone the other probably wont be far behind). Got my daughter now for Easter but hopefully I can distract her with the iPad long enough to fit a couple of bits to the car. Not sure where to start with the coil packs as I have only the 1 coil pack coming tomorrow so maybe have to remove the plugs and see if 1 is slightly blacker than the rest and go from there. On visual inspection of the coil packs none of them have the tell tale bulge/blister on them but obviously this doesnt mean they are good. Will have to swap 1 at a time and see if anything fixes it. Now I have the data logging capability is there any sensors I can monitor and log while I go for a drive that will show some kind of difference whent he misfire happens and give any indication as to what cylinder may be dropping?

So thanks to SuperStu I now have an UpRev cable. Used it to pull the codes and it confirmed the ones I pulled on the misfire thread were correct. Logged the Ignition timing advance and it was still showing -16. So I still have the P0011 and P0021 codes and the advanced timing at idle.

As above, spotted a nice looking silver 350Z Coupe heading down the Worcester to Hereford road today about 1730-1745hrs. You were heading toward Hereford and I was heading in the opposite direction in the orange Zed. Flashed and waved at you but not sure if you saw.

Stu, Ill take this mate if possible? Assuming you dont need an UpRev license to read codes and log real time info?

Cheers mate. Just ordered new cam sensors from Nissan owing to the P0345 code. Will look at coil packs next. Now does the pedal dance method of retrieving codes actually show you CURRENT codes or does it simply show all the historic codes? I have no CEL illuminated as yet. At a bit of a loss if the P0011 and P0021 codes are still present after the timing chain replacement. Not sure how much money to spend on this before it becomes false economy. About £8k into the car now (including buying it) and problem is still here. Another £150 on sensors and then £360+ for coil packs. A new engine would see this rise to in excess of £10k all in and at the end of the day its only a £5k car at best.

Right so I have now just driven 180 miles since the last post and not a single misfire. Dont think I went above 3k rpm the whole way back. Varying throttle but not WOT.

Ok so no CEL but read codes via flashy method and it seems the codes are: P0011 P0021 P0420 P0430 P0345 So it seems that my timing chain replacement has not fixed the P0011 and P0021 errors. The P0420 and P0430 are for my decats and the P0345 is the camshaft position sensor I believe? Would the Camshaft position sensor throw the P0011 and P0021 codes aswell as the P0345 code? Also how hard is it to swap this out? i.e. can I do it myself or will it be a garage job?

Will it log codes even if there is no CEL? Also if its a fault that only occurs with load (ie. no issue through the rev range in neutral and idles fine) then can I still do the usual coil pack disconnecting test while the engine is running to determine which one is going?

Right guys, on Wednesday night I had an intermittent misfire that happened mainly in 4th 5th and 6th gears but few and far between. Car has been driven over the weekend at various speeds in all gears and has had no issues. Although I havent driven on WOT at all. Jumped on the motorway this afternoon and went to accelerate up to speed (not on WOT) probably about 50% throttle in 5th gear at around 60-65mph when she misfires a few times. I slip her into 6th and slowly accelerated and she was fine until around 78mph when it misfires again. Pulled off the motorway and accelerated away from the lights on the roundabout and she misfired badly in 1st and 2nd. Car is pretty much undriveable above 2k rpm. If under then its ok but anything over that and she coughs and sputters like mad. Any ideas what could be causing this? The plugs were changed a couple weeks ago when this first happened and seemed to help a little but obviously now the problem is back and quite bad. Whenever this happens there is no CEL or any fluctuations in any of the gauges/dials etc. RESOLUTION MISALIGNED FLYWHEEL

Welcome along, whereabouts in Northants are you? Oh and I see no pics

Got the full Charge Speed kit on mine with the JDM plate on the rear and the UK plate on the front. Personally I think the JDM plate wouldn't work so well on the Charge Speed front. Doesn't bother me about the mis-match of UK and JDM plates because unless I've hit a tree and folded the car in half I'm never going to be able to see the 2 in the same view. Even then I think the mis-match of plates would be the least of my worries haha.

As the title suggests, does anyone know for a fact what size (cc) the stock injectors are across the entire VQ range? Im talking all varieties of 350Z and 370Z engines. I have been searching for hours and cannot see a definite answer of what size injectors are used. Some claim 280cc whilst others claim its 320cc for the early VQ35DE's. If one could get hold of a set of stock 370Z injectors cheaper than a set of 350Z injectors would it be considered a decent upgrade or are they exactly the same? Thanks in advance.

Ok cheers mate, Ill do a bit of digging. How many miles have the 370Z ones covered and how much would you want for therm. We can carry this on in PM if you would rather?

No worries mate, good to know they should be plug and play. Will do some research and see if these will be driveable in my application. If they will be fine and still available then Ill take them before I get the uprev. Ill let you know mate.