jamiebridge

@Hayd350 Yeah, I'm usually pretty early, so I manage to get on the other road further up away from the trees. I've not heard of cars in the park, I will check it out and let you know.

Yours looks mean mate, a step further on than mine mod wise, it made me want the mines lip again. I see you about quite a lot. Mine was pretty mucky yesterday. I almost parked around the corner, but spotted yours and couldn't not park opposite! Got a quick snap.. not the best picture but I was in a rush.

SOLD

Is there anyone that is breaking a 350z and has the lower exterior window trim RH drivers side. (with the black fastening clip still intact) Thanks in advance

Had an offer of £250 collection next sat. So if that falls through, will let you know.

When doing a bit of research it looks to be only the liners that would be different. However an 06 bumper on an 04 car would still fit, but with a slight gap in the liners. https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/519741-will-2006-front-bumper-fit-2003-a.html this would be a good thing with this bumper, if deano is wanting to put it on a hr, its actually better off, the 06+ liners are supposed to be a better fit with the V3 bumper as the bumper is longer.

No, it will fit both, the hr bumper is the same fitment, only the grille is different, thats why aftermarket lip fitments are different between models.

I bought this recently from another forum member, however i don't think i will get round to getting it painted and fitted, its currently just sat in the shed. This bumper fits 90% correct, as you can see in the pictures it has a small gap near the drivers side light. This bumper is a straight bolt on from the oem, it uses the same nuts and bolts. It has been shaped and painted by a bodyshop in frozen white, which cost £300, most of the work with these aftermarket grp bumpers is the prep for paint. If you require it repainting in your colour (like i was going to), it will only be a simple flat back and repaint job, around £150, all the hard work has already been done in regards to shaping and smoothing. I have reused the previous sellers photos, hence the numberplate blanking, this is to show photos of the bumper fitted. £250 ono Collection preferred from Harrogate, however I will post if the buyer sorts it out at their own risk. I am not in a rush to sell this as i do quite fancy it for mine and will only use the money to spend on other parts, so no silly offers please.

Ok brilliant, thanks for your help, 200mm is actually less than I expected and that gives me a rough guide on material lengths that I need. Could I be a real pain and see a picture of your cable tied liners haha. Thanks again.

Thanks Andy, I have seen those are available and have contacted to see if anyone has any. However, I may just try and make one myself. Roughly do you remember how big the gap is? Is it quite sizeable? How did you get around the arch liners not being long enough? Any workaround for this, or just have to live with the fact that they don't tuck into the bumper?

I still dont think it will be long enough as z speed do an extension for the v3 as well, but seems its only available in the US. I think i will be best mocking it up at the weekend, checking out the size of the gap to extend the oem one, try to make a cardboard template and go from there. I'm not sure what material to use though, maybe polypropylene sheet or something?

I have just purchased a Nismo v3 rep from a member, it has already been fitted, so i know the fitment is fine. However i am aware these bumpers are longer than oem. What are my undertray options? Am i best off trying to extend it, or is there anything already out there to do so? I dont want to remove the undertray fully, as i have heard horror stories of the arch liners ripping out at higher speeds. thanks.

I have searched forums / googled and found many different answers to this. It would be good to get a solid set of replies, to help people searching in the future. What are people setting their shift lights to for optimum performance? DE / REVUP / HR? Does it make a difference? Also for people who have had UPREV tunes the torque curve should be much smoother and not drop off? So im assuming as high as possible? I know the shift light is not essential, but its a bit of fun and can help out. So please refrain from the "you shouldnt need it" comments .

For anyone else who might find this useful, it turned out it was the wheel spacers pushing the caps out. I have used some light adhesive to hold them in place, rotashop actually did send me a replacement at no extra charge as well, great service.

Thanks scobie, will give that a try on Saturday, i cant really think of much else i can do. I don't think removing the wheel will make any difference, but i might try anyway just to factor it out.