mr v6

Just to keep this topic updated in case anyone else starts having a similar issue. I had the charging system tested today whilst I had more time, loading the battery up with the car running etc. All was fine if a little low on power. The tech at work looked & said it could be draining a little power with it not being fully seated. I got home & noticed the battery was free to move around a lot, the front bar & top strap were there but the small J hook for the rear was missing, hence it moving around. I removed the battery & tray & the rear fitting was just lying there. Once it was all back in secured properly I went at the terminals with some emery paper, connected up the negative & snugged it down, then the positive. I used a large socket & gently tapped it down to it's fully seated position & tightened it up snug. It doesn't seem to be moving now so only time will tell I guess.

I understand what you're saying, but for nothing to operate once the ignition is switched back is very weird, so if that was an issue I should still get all other things working. Only a wiggle of the wiring got it all working. I cleaned up the terminals earlier & they weren't too bad. The positive terminal wasn't fully seated at the base of the battery & was moving upwards as I was tightening it. The battery has obviously been changed because the retaining strap over the top & bar that goes down to the base were all very loose. I initially suspected it may have been the wrong battery with wrong posts?

This happened again this morning, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Ignition on, gauge reading 12v & pump priming, went to crank & heard a couple of clicks from the engine bay then all the instrument panel / dash lights went out. I turned the ignition off, then back on & no lights at all, not even the courtesy lights on the roof, no pump priming either. Check the battery posts with a multimeter & it was reading 12.38v from being stood for 13 hours overnight, I left the drivers door open. I wiggled the positive battery connection a little & heard a series of clicks & the lights came on. It was just cranking for a moment till I tried it again then it started right up. I've not had chance to look at it as I needed to get to work, so I'm hoping (fingers crossed) it's just a dirty terminal & needs tightening.

Mine has the Nissan kit installed as I found out the other week. Isn't there markings on the inside of the bumper showing where you drill so it's all aligned correctly? All these kits are the same so I can't see how they differ from kit to kit.

At work we have a bunch of guys who go around the north of England cutting & coding keys at our dealerships. Our local guy couldn't get his eqpt to talk to my Z last month & asked if I could take a photo of my BCM he could use his other software to decode it & get the Pin code to program a new key. I've just dug out my second key, not a remote one, it has no buttons but does start the car. On the keyring is a small metal tag with a 5 digit number starting with a 0 (zero), along with 4 other numbers after it. Is this likely to be my Pin code or keycode?? Ideally I want a second remote key which I can get at cost price.

I'm going to hold off on replacing the starter for now as I've read it could be the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal. Odd thing just happened I'd like a bit of help on though, just been out to the shops, started fine, but noticed on the way back the digital time clock was showing 2.49, whereas when I went out it was showing 7.30, also the range in which the REV light flashes had reset to 6600rpm. This also happened on Saturday morning when it didn't fire up straight away. Any ideas ?

Never seen a ginger Z around there despite working very close to there.

Thanks both, I tested the battery in work with a Midtronics EXP-800 & it tested fine with 580CCA. Gauge shows bang on 12v with ignition on. The auto electrical place near work quoted £70 to refurb the unit if I drop it off & would be a 3 hour turn around. I'll check the starter connections today if I get chance. Battery terminals are fine & crud free .

This happened on Wednesday but disregarded it till it happened again today. Clutch pedal to the floor & key in the cranking position, I heard a series of clicks from the engine bay. Keeping the key in the crank position it then fired up. Is there any known issues or can this be put down to a sticky starter motor?

Useless garage who replaced mine decided to ignore the files I sent them & spent a day just pressing the pedal. In the end they depressed the slave rod & clamped it in place, then bled it, let it push out & close the nipple & repeat & they did it pretty quickly. Glad it wasn't me doing it.

Vac hose leaking somewhere?

Nice . What cap cover kit did you use for the screw on tops? Also the hose kit?

I've kept a regular check on fluid levels with the Z since getting her in September, but this morning the minimum coolant level was just below the minimum level mark after being stood overnight in icy temperatures. I topped it off with water after checking it's level with one of the many floating disc type testers (Sealey). I did notice an outlet on the top of the tank pointing towards the drivers side, I take it this is the vent? As with any hot liquid you're going to lose some from natural evaporation, I don't have any apparent leaks.

I used a Blueprint filter (£2.50 from work) & this exact oil about 6 weeks ago. Z runs fine on it. Smooth & quiet from startup, dipstick is always a light golden colour. I paid around £16 incl delivery with a code from the internet . Oil is a minefield, there's loads out there from this, to Motul at £40+.

Last night heading towards Urmston around 5.30pm, didn't get the colour or reg as it was dark. Instances like this I usually tap the brake lights a few times, didn't get a response though .

Hi everyone, All has been fine with Z, tonight I had just left work & as always, I lock the doors (dodgy areas of Manchester & all that ). Took the usual route home, sat at the usual sets of lights & heard the C/L clunk. I thought initially I'd knocked the button on the door, but you'd need to be a spaz to do that given where it is. Anyway I locked it & set off, next set of lights clunk, it did it again. Once I'd got past the Tesco & 2 hotels I locked it & all was fine, and it seems to have been fine since. Could this be an interference of some sort from cameras / some sorts of radio waves from the hotels etc?? I'm confused, Jap cars aren't known for their electrical issues are they.

I've seen a few of these that are a transparent coloured perspex that look good.

What brand of belts did you fit? I replaced the longer one with a Gates & the shorter with a Conti one. Double check your tension too as that will cause some squeal, unless they're the wrong length?

Bit confused... I didn't really have any wiring spare..... Unless... Have you kept the two (unequal length) wires that plug into the loom, run around the OEM cowl and go into the back of the standard fans? - I took these off with the OEM fans / Cowl and plugged the Mishimoto wires straight into the two sockets on the loom. (Making sure I got them the right way round ...). Is this the difference? I positioned the Mishimoto wires straight across the back of the fans (rather than running them round the Mishimoto cowl) and put a couple of wire ties onto the plastic bars across the back of the fans (the wires are not exactly heavy and it didn't seem to block a lot of air...). I was surprised at how much I seemed to have. I just bundled it together & cable tied it to the ARB as there was that much of it, probably a few feet or more, there was simply nowhere to put it. By the way, I found that NRF kit on the Mister Auto shop on ebay for around £135 before I bought the MM setup. As for the noise, the odd time it comes on I really don't mind it, at least you know they're working.

Throttles had to be reset at Nissan at a cost of £69, but hey you live and learn lol Glad you're now sorted, but I've just Googled this & there's loads of sites showing how to do it yourself with the pedal.. Unless I've missed a trick somewhere.

Tyre Leader fan here too, never had any issues & fast delivery even from Europe. Just make they're not 'new, old stock', which you can tell by the markings on them.

Shouldn't the Z use 5w30? I used Shell Ultra in the Z a few weeks ago during an oil change & it doesn't seem to mind it.

I have tried a few different bulbs but never been impressed with them. My current front sidelight bulbs touch the inside of the clear lens & I don't want them to melt it. Looking at these some sellers say they're only for Z's of 2006 upwards. I didn't think the design or fitment of the lamps changed whether it was a 2003 or a 2008? But if someone can correct me I'd appreciate it.

Thread resurrection. I don't mind adding my details. OBDII ELM327 with a few apps Nisan Datascan II - full version M60 J8 / M6 J21 & surrouding areas

On my previous car I was lucky enough to be able to remove the number plate lamp lens & fit an LED panel of the right size, this looked great. I notice the Z lamps can't be split open, so unless you're only replacing the halogen 501 bulb for an ebay LED one, you don't have much choice. I've seen these on ebay that seem to be a pair of lamps with an LED panel inside ready to fit to the Z connectors. Has anyone any experience with these? Is the Z canbus?