mr v6

The lamps on my Z have been bugging me since day 1, so I decided on a quick polish to see how they'd turn out & how long they'd last. I was tinkering with the idea of buying a kit, the 3M one, but after Googling '350Z headlight restoration' it lead me to a topic on the forum here, where many used Autosol. So armed with the stuff & 10 mins of my time I got the following, but quick results. I'll see how long it lasts then make a decision whether to redo it with Autosol or wet & dry them. The microfibre cloth went very yellow & dirty very quickly. Before: After: The pair together: I did notice my o/s/f sidelight bulb flickering so I'll change that in the morning.

One thing I could never get my head around from a personal point of view, is why people convert from a dual to a single exit. Visually, when you see 2 cut outs in the bumper you expect to see 2 pipes, but to see only 1 & an empty opening.. I just don't get the whole thing myself.

Oversteer is spot on, Mark's are superb quality, a single piece & weighted perfectly. I used a pair of molegrips on the shaft after lifting up the console, then a large pair of dogleg pliers on the old knob as it was hard to get moving, once it moved the new one was on 20 seconds later: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107048-blinged-custom-gear-knobs-new-stock-available/?page=7#comment-1666535

I saw these from this very seller a few months ago, the only thing that put me off was they were gloss black, my Z is Blade Silver, so painting it started to make the mod expensive for what you achieve. For me anyway.

I'm sure I've also seen this twice over the last couple of months, moreso recently in Carrington when I flashed & the driver & got a wave. From memory it was fairly loud & I've sure (could be wrong) it had a front or rear diffuser & tinted windows along with a BGW.

Thanks. One thing I'm going to have to do, because we all want to know what it's like to be behind the wheel of the car behind looking at the Z's rear, is hand the key over to my sister, only so she can drive it slowly so I can exactly see from the rear, what others are seeing. I'm not one for handing any of my car keys to anyone, but I totally trust my sister, she was used to a 400bhp Evo last year.

Thanks for all the replies. I bit the bullet & borrowed a drill & bits yesterday. I used 3x self tappers with washers & got the following result. Then a further half hour with Megs NXT metal polish to bling the rear section up, must say it looks great. I wasn't a lover at first because once you start drilling there's no going back. High res images here: Before: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/350z/bumpertuck1.jpg After: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/350z/bumpertuck2.jpg

Thanks for the input Alex. As a matter of course, I've ordered a bottle of Motul RBF 660 & a Stoptech slave. I'll try the bleed with new fluid first. I'm going to use the bleeding method by blocking the cylinder as that seems to yield good results. If I start to get a mushy pedal from then on in, I'll swap the cylinder.

Thanks Alex. I may just go for the change to rule it out. Would this been seen as a superior part to the Nissan one: https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/clutch-and-drivetrain/350z-stoptech-premium-clutch-slave-cylinder.html or https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/powertrain/ancillaries/1673-350z-de-05-07-stoptech-premium-clutch-slave-cylinder-13842019.html

Sorry for the mix up, I was reading other things. It's the external slave on the outside of the box .

Anyone? For an 05 DE?

Hopefully it's just air, but do you have any links for an uprated one Alex?

Today for the first time since having the new CSC installed 9 months (4500 miles) ago, the pedal stuck part way down. I left it & could still change gears as normal, but it seemed hydraulic pressure pedal travel as maybe an inch. It's got me worried that it may be failing so early. How is the pedal in the hot on everyone elses Z? Do you get this, or do you have full pedal travel & pressure all the way from the top to the bottom?

I don't like the idea of the sagging so would like to do it properly, but at the same time I don't like the idea of drilling the bumper if I want to revert it back .

Now I'm no stranger to mechanics or repairs etc, but I've been in 2 minds about doing this to my Z. After thinking about it for the last 9 months I've decided I want to go ahead & get it done. Mine has an Ark Grip system, but as I don't own a drill or anything, I was just wondering if there was anyone in the Manchester, Altrincham, Sale or Urmston areas who've done this before, who wouldn't mind doing it for beer tokens on mine.

Had the battery disconnected off mine a couple of times & it's never asked for the code?

Hi all, Following on from this topic last year: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/111333-wont-engage-gear-odd-clutch-pedal/ I had a failed CSC & it was replaced with a genuine Nissan part, all works fine. From cold you have full pressure on the pedal all the way to the floor. I did notice straight away (as you do in the hotter weather) that the pressure isn't as much, instead I seem to lose a bit of pressure for about 1" of travel. To explain it as best as I can, the firm travel I have from cold seems to get lost when hot & the first part of pressing the pedal feels like nothing apart from tension on a spring on the pedal somewhere.

I've seen the combined number plate lamp & cameras on ebay & Amazon. I have no plans in buying a double DIN head unit as I have a single DIN Pioneer unit that I'll get round to fitting at some point. My question is, are there any small screens out there that fit in the cubby hole that will connect upto the rear camera.. If they're any good.

What code reader have you used? Most cheapo ones will only read engine codes, not ABS, SRS, ESP etc. If it is the low level, although halfway I wouldn't say was low, more than likely your pads are wearing which means the pistons will move out & calipers fill up with more fluid = lower level. Faulty ABS ring / pick up, dirty sensor.

This is the 3rd Mishimoto oil cooler for the 350Z where either it's been fitted upside down, or the makers sprayed the logo upside down? Not that it matters on yours as it's hidden, it's just something my eagle eye notices .

Given it's location it surely must be used for the slush box?

I've got a set of NGK PLFR5A-11 (6240) plugs to put in mine at some point, along with genuine Nissan diff oil & gearbox oil. You could flush out the old clutch fluid for DOT 5, but they can be a pain to bleed given what folk on here say.

Does the driveshafts on the Z have ABS / reluctor rings on them, or is it built into the hub / bearing assembly? From past experience a 'bumping' pedal is usually an obstruction in the air gap of one of the sensors.

Most cheap OBDII readers only do engine codes. I bought a licence for NDS towards the end of last year so I could read all the ECU's. One thing I don't like is owning a car & only being able to access 1 ECU.

Here's what I accomplished late last year in well under 2 hours: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/111917-quick-polish-wax-of-the-z/ This year it'll get a thorough wash, de-tar, clay with Bilt Hamber, machine polish with a DAS6 & chosen polish at the time, then waxed. I personally like a glaze for a quickie if you don't have time to apply a wax, wait for it to cure depending on how hot or cold the weather is, then removing it, which can be hard work if you're new to detailing as you've said, & aren't sure if the wax you've chosen to use can be hard to remove, because some like Megs #16 can leave you tired. It's a minefield out there when it comes to detailing products. If you read & believe all the hype on DW then you'll have no money left, everything is the next best thing till something else comes out. Set yourself a budget as a beginner & stick with it. Plenty of products out there to start you off that'll give you good visual results.