mr v6

I've been looking at spacers lately, but was worried whether there'd be extra stress on the hub / bearing assembly with the wheels being further away than they should.

It could possibly be, if not it was something close.

Yours doesn't have the burnt tips, I presume you opted not to have them? Yours looks like what mine does. I've been out again tonight with some Megs NXT metal polish to clean it up. I could probably get a better finish if I spent longer on it, but to be honest, I don't fancy lying on the ground for that long, neighbours will think I'm odd.

Looks good so far paint job appears a good matte factory finish. Am following this thread.

I was in the Golf going the other way today around noon, couldn't tell at a quick glance whether it was silver or grey. Number plate was similar to S1 KNX, something along those lines. Male driver with sunglasses on.

My previous 2 cars have had 4 pot Brembo's on the front & both have suffered from this. The calipers are aluminium & the sliders in which the pads move along are stainless steel. Corrosion builds up under the sliders & in time they lift slightly, effectively reducing the gap in which the new pads fit. Yesterday I set out to replace the front pads. Gladly all pistons & boots were moving freely, old pads were Delphi, not sure who makes the grooved discs though. I started out with a set of Ferodo pads, the inner pads on both calipers needed tapping in. Took it for a drive & this caused the Z to drag & slow down quickly by itself. As I had no file or grinder I had to use the old inner pad for the n/s/f. Today I removed that pad & the inner pad on the o/s/f (which wasn't as bad) & took a grinder to the edge to get it to fit. The only remedy I've had experience on with Brembos is to remove the caliper, split it in half to remove the little button torx screws, take the stainless slider off & clean up the corrosion underneath. I have a spare caliper from my old car at home that I'm in the process of refurbing with new seals, paint job & decals. I did a search but couldn't find anything about this on here using the word 'corrosion' in the search engine. There's a guide & extra info on club I run here: http://www.406coupeclub.org/Files/HowToGuides/Brakes - Refurbish stainless steel slider plates on Brembo callipers.pdf

This system was already on the car when I bought it a year ago, I've seen a number of pics of the system both on here & the internet & they all appear to have a mirror finish, whereas mine is sort of a satin finish. I've polished it with Autosol, Mothers MAG & aluminium polish & Megs NXT metal polish. It comes up better, but certainly not a mirror finish I wanted. Their website as of now doesn't give you a choice of finishes other than the tailpipe..

No probs guys, I've removed the pic. It was a totally above board emissions test on my car with the factory cats still in place, I'm not totally sure why there's an issue with the results being posted. They're just a fair place I've used for years for all sorts or repairs etc.

What's dodgy about it? Nothing on my Z is illegal, they're just a good place to go to. Only trying to help fellow Z owners.

A few weeks early on the MOT as I like to get it done in good time. I've always worried about the emissions as in previous cars I've run decats. Att'd is a printout of the emisions test. He pointed out I needed to replace the n/s/f droplink, this was confirmed as there's been a knocking noise for a while now. Also pads all round in the near future, but I have replacements at home so no issues there, as long as non of the pistons give me trouble. He did recommend wire brushing the rear end down & putting some Waxoyl on it, which I'll do of course. Just glad it passed without any major issues. If there's anyone in the Manchester area looking for a 'friendly' tester, I've been to him before, as have other people, they're a good place to deal with. He did ask if it was decatted, that way he knew how to go about it lol.

Oddly this week I've had the cheapest quote I've ever had for car insurance in my 22 years of driving. From 2005 to 2014 I've owned 2 Pug 406 Coupes in V6 form over 2 different PSA V6 engines. My current insurers wanted £734, then came down to £500. The insurance department of where I work wanted £1327 after employee discount. Anyhow, after trying Prestige, Chris Knott & Adrian Flux, I went on Comparethemarket & Axa came up with £398. After adding my dad on the policy & doing a bit of altering of details. I ended up with a fully comp & protected policy, legal cover, able to drive other cars ect for just £325 for the year... That's just change isn't it? It pays to shop around, don't be afraid to be cheeky & ask for money off ect, also play them all off against each other, they want your business more than anything else at the end of the day.

It's all well & good going out & spending £xx amount on products & doing it yourself. You need to have an idea on what level of correction or enhancement you need, then which products suit your needs. If the amount you're going to spend on products & equipment is more than what you'd spend on someone to do the job for you, then why not just let that person do it for you. On the other hand, if you're willing to spend to get the gear together yourself (costs vary greatly), then not only can you do the job yourself, you've still got the gear to do it next time, then on your mates car for mates rates etc. I started out by buying a Kestrel DAS-6 9 years ago, I still have it & it works perfectly. Over the years I've bought various pads & polishes to do jobs on my own cars, neighbours cars, friends, family & customers cars. I don't do this as a full time job as it'd bore me to death, but kudos to those that do it daily. I do it occasionally, that way I find it interests me more & I take more care when doing the job. As recommended above, Obsidians work is superb, I've seen plenty of it on DW (although I find the whole site far too anal, it grinds my gears). I do have a full time job, but feel free to browse through my pics of other cars here: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/detailing/ I'm an amateur & do it as a hobby, when I can be bothered & have a spare full day with the right weather.

Here you go: https://www.350z-uk.com/profile/9648-zmanalex/

Was parked in the Shell station on Manchester Road this afternoon (not in my Z though) around 3.50pm when a Sunset Z drove by in the direction of Sale, touring alloys & an aftermarket exhaust. Sounded nice

Anyone? Torqen?

During those 3 times, did water get onto the switch? I'm guessing here, but is there a permanent 12v feed at the switch's connector, but is only live when the ignition is on?? Could be a control unit issue, maybe a pinched wire in the door somewhere? It's one of those faults that you need to keep occurring to narrow the fault down.

Possibly a silly question, but I saw another YT channel showing an install for this, how does the radio work, off an app using your data?

Can I just ask, if this problem continues, the next stop would be the master cylinder. Torqen shows a rebuild kit for the DE for just £27.62. Has anyone any experience fitting this kit & fixing their problem before forking out £100+ on a new master?

As was the case with mine. Lazy fitter from a previous change.

I bled the system today using normal brake fluid. I went through exactly 300ml. Iwas told by a 'tech' (word used very loosely at work) to get a pipe with a small slit in it, that way it allows fluid out & no air in.. This didn't work, so had my dad come over & we did it the normal 2 man way. After a short time of dad having to pull the pedal up with his foot etc, we had a good pedal (I mean the normal pedal) after about 20 mins. I still have the same amount of pedal play as before. I'm starting to think it could be the master cylinder, purely because every now & again if I press the pedal I feel a little of the play go, then it comes back, plus the master is making a squeaking / creaking noise when the pedal is pressed. I also noticed the crappy Nissan insulation that's around the hydraulic pipe, it's a poor attempt at heat diversion. I ordered a 2" wide length of exhaust manifold wrap from ebay. I got rid of the standard stuff & wrapped the heat wrap around the braided line using cable ties every inch or so, just in case the fluid was boiling up, the standard heat wrap was all open bar a couple of cable ties in the wrong places. Time will tell I suppose.

That's unfortunate mate, sorry to hear it. I stopped using those type of jacks earlier this year & bought an Arcan 2T one from Costco, 5 pumps on the handle & the thing is at it's highest lift. More of a reason never to get under any car without jack stands & just rely on a small jack, not worth it.

Looking nice Mik Du. Always like how PB BH fills swirls to give a rich deep shine, but it's fillers I found wash out if you dont put a wax over the top. Just something to think about.

I bought a Stoptech uprated cylinder from either Torqen or Tarmac Sportz last month for around £42. I also bought a 500ml bottle of Motul RBF660 from ebay for about £15 inc delivery. I'm trying a flush & bleed with regular fluid first, if it continues I'll just swap the cylinder & use Motul.

Mine is starting to do this 9 months after having a genuine slave fitted along with a HEL braided line. I'm going to attempt a fluid bleed & see how it goes. Failing that, I'll fit the Stoptech slave I've got. If I get no joy with that I'll change the master.. Why, because why not.

Well yesterday morning, I gave them another helping of Autosol, then a finer Megs NXT metal polish, then 2 layers of Soft99 Fusso Coat light wax. Will see how they go, then perhaps wet n dry them at some point.