mr v6

I too am not a fan of that lip that has the huge ankle chopping edges on, just my opinion of course. How does it fit, adhesive, sealant, screws etc?

2 hours ago, Declangibbs said:

Where did you find your problem?

 

just tried bypassing the clutch position sensor and didn't fix the issue. Ordered a new one anyways.

 

The battery positive connection was loose.

On 01/10/2017 at 11:45, Declangibbs said:

would it be battery connections if I'm still getting all electrics?

I was getting that, then the demand on the electrical system took it's toll. Your case maybe very different, some methodical, basic electrical tests should point you in the direction of the fault.

Just to add to this, have you had it plugged in to read for any stored or pending codes?

Just to add, I had a similar issue last year, not had the problem since sorting out the battery positive terminal connection:  https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/113080-faulty-starter-motor/

It may help, it may not.

Travelling through Stretford, Manchester this morning towards the direction of town about 6.50am. Couldn't make out the reg, but it was grey & passing the Honda dealership.

I don't fancy keeping either in the Z, plus there's a gap for it.

Quality of that looks pretty decent... Anyone else notice the amount of Z's in the video...

Only noticed today my Z doesn't have the wheel chock, it's missing from the space. I have a pair at home, but I like to keep things original, so doesn't anyone have one to fit the tool kit area. If so, how much posted? Unless you're in Manchester & I can collect.

Replaced the n/s/f droplink this morning. I've done a number of these over the years so the one on the Z wasn't too bad in comparison. The lower nut came off easily as it was counterheld with a 19mm spanner, the upper one however was stubborn. The ring around it started to spin when you went to undo the nut, the usual allen or torx fitting on the end of the thread wasn't there. No matter how much clamping I got on it with various sizes of molegrips, the shaft would just spin independently of that locking ring around it. I ended up using a grinder to cut through it. If I have to do one again I won't be using molegrips.

Next job, rear pads, then a front bumper repair & respray along with the wings & roof.

I fitted a Blackvue DR650GW 2 camera kit into a friends Volvo estate powered with something called a Magic box. Quality was superb, as were the features within the camera, the app also available. Not cheap at the time just over £320 it cost him to buy it, obviously it was fitted properly at mates rates of £0.00p.

You get what you pay for with these as you can buy them for peanuts nowadays, but the cheap ones can be bulky.

By like for like I mean the Potenza's but the newer 050 tyre.

I will be replacing like for like on the fronts as the rears have loads of tread left. Only today I noticed (a year on) my rears are 255/45/18, so obviously the previous owner went for the slightly wider rears.

I too am after a set of these, but some sellers seem to overprice them, just because..

Glad you like it. I looked at many before getting the mopedmark one, I've not looked back. The weight is perfect, as are the markings.

Both the Avon & Falkens were on 2 versions of a 406 Coupe, both in V6 form, both with 16" alloys. I'm going to stick with the RE050A's because, if it's not broke, don't fix it.

I need to replace both front tyres within the next couple of months, they're currently Bridgestone RE040. Both of the rears are Bridgestone RE050. A few tyre places are telling me the 050 are now replaced with the T001 & S001, yet the 050 are still available. I've had no grip issues in either the wet or dry, car handles as well as you'd expect, so is it best to stick with 050 on the front for a matching set? I've had good experience with Avon ZZ5 & Flaken ZIEX on previous cars, but I'd like to keep the Z as close to standard as I can.

Any info on replacement would be nice.

There'll always be a small area around the outer edge of the disc where the lip forms over time, also the inner where it's outside of the pads contact area. You may have a sticking piston, or corrosion under the sliders: See here

Great results. It takes guts using something like UC to soft Japanese paint though. Did you get a paint depth reading done prior to using it? Always best to be safe than sorry. I've had my DAS6 for almost 9 years & it's still going strong. I tried a DAS6 Pro & sound it moved & vibrated too much for my liking, but on hard German paint the extra grunt helped. Have been looking at clay cloths myself but I prefer the hands on old way of doing it using Bilt Hamber clay & water as lube.

I did a black Jag XF last year that belongs to my sisters fella. It was always intended to be done withing the day, so not 100% perfect. Have a look at the end results here: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/detailing/jagxf/

Cheers for the replies guys, at least it's not just my system that appears to be like this.

I've been looking at spacers lately, but was worried whether there'd be extra stress on the hub / bearing assembly with the wheels being further away than they should.

It could possibly be, if not it was something close.

On 16/08/2017 at 17:57, SpeckUK said:

Mines been on for about a year now and I wouldn't say it's mirror it's more just stainless  but hey I bet if I spent a few good hours it might get close!

Yours doesn't have the burnt tips, I presume you opted not to have them? Yours looks like what mine does. I've been out again tonight with some Megs NXT metal polish to clean it up. I could probably get a better finish if I spent longer on it, but to be honest, I don't fancy lying on the ground for that long, neighbours will think I'm odd.

Looks good so far paint job appears a good matte factory finish. Am following this thread.

I was in the Golf going the other way today around noon, couldn't tell at a quick glance whether it was silver or grey. Number plate was similar to S1 KNX, something along those lines. Male driver with sunglasses on.