mr v6

(Already awaits the "you shouldn't need them if you can drive" comments) Lately I often get either a long single beep, or a long beep then a short gap, or long beeps at the same interval. This is with no obstructions behind me, then all of a sudden they'll work fine. If I put a finger on each sensor I can feel a light pulsing, they all respond the same way. If during the long beep then a short gap, covering a single sensor it changes to a constant beep as if the object was close. Seems the sensor(s) respond all the same way, but is the issue a sensor of the control module? Mine are a factory fit & I'd like to keep it that way rather go aftermarket & alter the wiring of size of the holes in the bumper along with having them sprayed.

There's very few if any around this area, not often you see the same one twice at all.

This time on the A6144 Manchester Road in Partington last night around 4.15pm.. Maybe the same white one I spotted in the earlier topic.

White Z heading away from Salford on Trafford Road around 8.45am this morning.. Any takers? Not seen this one before.

I had my Z in at Drury Lane Garage early this morning for a full geometry / alignment check. Whilst it was on the ramp I spotted a grey Z on the A62 Manchester Road heading towards Oldham. Would've been around 9.30am.

I would swap the bulb for the other side, if the fault follows the bulb that should be your problem.. Could also be the ballast too.

Do you have factory xenons or halogen bulbs?

Renewed the insurance in the Z today. AXA came through with their renewal of £397 for the year, around 18p / month up on last year. Chris Knott wouldn't even entertain me, so I called Adrian Flux (who I've had insurance with before), after the usual questions it came out at £300 exactly for the year. Thanks to Adrian Flux.

I bought a Stoptech slave last year before I changed the fluid 'just in case'. My issue was a little air in the fluid from the cylinder change months previously by the dealer I bought my Z from. Spent about 15 mins bleeding the system in July last year with my dad in the car & all has been well since, even sat in traffic in this hot weather, which is when the problem shows itself the most. I took notes from this forum on how to do it knowing how tricky it can be, all the info helped. It's all down to that valve behind the wheel arch liner, not sure what it actually does or if it's even necessary.. But there is a YT video of it being deleted & a straight through line being fitted.

In that case I'd just do a fluid flush first, then go from there.

Spotted this one parked in a pub car park this morning whilst sat at the lights, so I turned in for a nosey. 55 plate in grey, black Touring alloys & the OSR lamp in the bumper looks like it had been smashed into the bumper as it was at a wonky angle.. Sorry but I didn't get a piccie. I've not seen it around the area before.

Only got round to fitting mine this evening. You could probably get away without removing the airbox, but if you've never done it before then it pays to know what the back of the airbox looks like. The stack fits like a glove, I'm leaving mine in the kitchen overnight, perfect opportunity to also clean & oil the K&N panel filter too. Thanks again.

You won't lose much at all, it won't need bleeding if you're quick. When I did mine it was airbox out, disconnect top hose from radiator & bend it up out of the way, I only lost a bit from the rad, maybe cable tie a nitrile glove or small bag over it? I also removed (or loosened, can't remember) the bracket holding the A/C lines in place. I had read it can be removed from underneath too, but I didn't do that as the bolts were breaking the plastic undertray. A very simple job to do.

No change bc1987, still does it when entering bends a bit swiftly, never did it before the tyre change.

Evening all. I'm looking to get my A/C system regassed at work, with this opportunity I'd like to replace the drier with dessicant sack at the same time. I can't find any real info on exactly what needs to be removed to do this. I've tried the search & found a topic last from year, but the poster didn't say what he did, or whether it was a garage jobbie. Any help would be great. Ta

Go & lose yourself on Detailing World & spend some time on there. What works for other novices may not work with you. Don't get sucked into all the brand snobbery too, you don't need to spend a silly amount of money on products if you're just getting to know the difference between a detailing spray & ceramic coating ect.. Good luck.

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Sounds exactly like mine, the initial prime is to pressurise the system, then it'll run once started. Isn't the Z a return-less system? I wouldn't worry about it Jason.

Hold both buttons down for a few seconds, then unlock the car with the remote key, if you've done it right both doors will unlock. If you want to revert back to only the drivers door unlocking, just repeat the procedure.

Sounds like the fuel pump inside the tank to me. Mine makes a similar noise, you can hear it when parked at the side of the house with the window down.

This also works for my 05, but I left it so the passenger door stays locked.

Gotta love a ghetto install, well done.

^ ^ Exactly this. I had a hydraulic issue 3 days after getting my Z, luckily the garage replaced the slave for a new one & fitted the HEL braided line I sent them (they also paid for the line). I was never happy with how the pedal felt after they eventually bled it. I ended up bleeding it with my dad pressing the pedal. A YT video shows some valve under the n/s/f wheel arch line that's an issue when bleeding, apparently. My pedal feels real good now. Only today was I sat in 30oC temps on the M6 with lots of stop / starting (upto 15mph) & crawling along & had total confidence the hydraulics were properly bled. I even bought a Stoptech slave from one of the traders on here to upgrade it to at some point along with some Motul RBF660. My Z also has a Clark Motorsport stage 1 clutch with SMF conversion too. Something to consider.

If they're getting hot then they're not moving freely in the caliper, movement should be very little, but not tight. My guess is you have the above issue with that rear caliper, so you'll need to take the edges of the pad off to get them to fit.

By the time I pulled the phone out & was trying to focus, the phone was more interested on focusing on the dash, hence the blur in the background. I'm pretty local to the area & haven't seen it around before.