mr v6

Make sure your battery connections are tight! I had this exact issue a few times when I first bought mine, clocks would light but, but nothing on cranking, try again & it was fine. Turns out my battery connections were not tight, nipped them up & the issue went away.

Fuel pump seal ring worn along with other parts are a possibility. Could be a very small leak & it evaporates before you get chance to see it. Get a garage to smoke test the tank through the filler neck, should be easy to spot then.

I replaced a rear on mine 2 years ago. 104k & replaced it with a Blueprint one from work & cost me £60.

You should also be able to see it by unclipping the air filter cover & removing it along with the filter.

Good shout Ekona, I think I'll do just that👍.

Does anyone know the size of the bolt that's used to hold the slip-tips on? The nut is 10mm. I want to remove mine to polish the blueing off the tips as I've gone off it.

If it helps, the only oil I've put in my 05 Z is Shell Helix Ultra Pro 5w30 AG. Never had to top it up between oil changes either.

Have tried Autosol myself & it worked ok. I went onto Autosmart EVO & it did the job too, but my bottle of that has long since expired. I now use 3M & found it corrected the light much quicker. This is something I do every 6 months, so you'll no doubt be doing it again by the end of the year / start of next. Looking good though. Put a bit of hard wearing wax over it.

Unless you have an oddball battery with the narrower terminals, they're all the same. Could be your clamps have been overtightened over time & therefore stretched a little.

For info, the drivers buckle is no longer available from Nissan. I sprayed a small amount of maintenance spray into the mechanism & it seems to have freed it up, to the point where it releases straight away.

Are these easy enough to change without removing the whole seat? Mine has got to the point where it needs a couple of pushes to get it to release. Thanks😎.

Exactly how I do it. When you unplug one & the engine doesn't bog down, then that'll be your coil.

Have you scanned it for any codes? That's where I'd start. Probably a coil pack.

I just used plenty of carb cleaner. I opened the throttle body & gave the whole inside a good clean, along with the edge of the butterfly valve, then do the resets, that may take you numerous attempts as they can be tricky.

Have you tried a thorough clean of the throttle body followed by all the 3 resets? I did that a few years ago & since then mine has been rock steady at 650rpm when fully warmed up.