G1en

2nd Event of the year Is there a better Circuit in the UK than Anglesey when the sun is shining?

Sounds like its just come to the end of its life like you have stated. To be honest at 64k it may be on the second clutch in the cars life already, they don’t last as long as other vehicles but thats just a blanket statement, obviously tons of variables involved. I am on my 4th clutch in 20k miles but thats with lots of track abuse. Lots of traders on here can sell/fit or both for you a new clutch disc, flywheel, slave either separate or full kits.

Had my first race event last weekend, around 200 road miles plus track time and no issue. If your not sure what to use, I would recommend this over anything else I have used.

2026 Season has started. Cadwell Park was first up yesterday. New Suspension = Better

Finally got round to summing up 2025 and getting ready for this year. Highlights from 2025: 24 Rounds Competed In 1st=12 2nd=9 3rd=1 4th=2 14 new PBs 2 New Class Records

Sorted it. Because I have the module wired in (CS Burnout Mod or whatever you want to call it) that disables TC and SC I had to disable that and then drive for a period co the whole system could reset. just turning it off/on and starting car wasn't enough. And I had been driving back from dyno with it on which must bypass the system so the ABS light didn't clear. I thought it highly unlikely there would be a fault if nothing was messed with, its common that lights throw up after a rolling road session as i assume rear wheels going 150mph whilst front wheels are stationary throws the system into meltdown. My OBD reader also doesn't read ABS/SRS faults/codes just the main Engine ECU so it would never have detected anything anyhow. Something for others to bear in mind. Hope that makes sense to everyone (but prob doesn't lol)

Advice Needed Just been to a rolling road for a dyno run as part of a new championship i am doing this year. On drive back home noticed the ABS and Parking Brake warning lights are on. I have disconected battery and reconnected Checked with my OBD reader - No codes stored or pending I have the module wired in that permanently disables/ re-enables TC and SC this is still working fine and has no impact on the ABS light switching it off/on Checked alll relevant fuses (i think) and all seem ok Checked behind brake pedal and both switches that connect and all seems ok took it for a drive after turning off/on and disconnecting battery and still on (stays on from ignition) Only thing left is checking abs sensors but would this throw a code? How will i know which one might be faulty without swapping the lot? On the rolling road it was slipping a lot and i am wondering if that has caused the lights, I dont know if they were on straight after session or not, there was no mapping or anything involved, it was just a power run (or 3) to determine the power of the car then it was weighed. cheers

my friends car, cough cough.... was struggling to get through this year and the tester knew a few tricks, blocking the other tailpipe with a rag and and putting a rag around the probe on the tailpipe being tested drops the emissions flow and reduces engine revs so the emissions readings lowered, my friend said he could see the numbers drop on the computer and it worked a treat, apparently.....

Now sold Mods please lock

It will be the slave cylinder. highly unlikely to be the master. On your model I think you are in luck and it is on the outside of the gearbox, fairly straightforward job to replace, all traders on here sell the replacement kits. Its the HR model 07+ that I have which is a pig where the slave is inside the housing.

Bump... £500 to a forum member if anyone wants them (£50 for the bush kit if taken together)

FOR SALE: Full set of coilovers for the 350Z platform - £600 I have run these for around 17k miles with no issues, just upgraded to a more race focused suspension so these have been removed. As you can see from the photos, overall in very good condition, there is some corrosion to the rear springs as these take most of the flying debris/weather/abuse from driving but still in decent condition. As the main shock bodies are stainless steel, they resist any corrosion and I also coated them in bilt hamber dynax UC to further protect them when i installed them which has obviously helped. The threads and adjustment are all silky smooth and they offer a fast road/occasional track sporty ugrade to oem shocks & springs. As well as offering a 20-40mm lowering adjustment range over stock. They come complete with everything in the pictures, top mounts for front and the rubber spring seats for the rear. (you will prob have these already but these may be in better condition) Perfect fitment designed specifically for the 350Z These retail around £1200 The Eibach ones here are no longer available but I believe they are identical to the KW V1 set still available, as you can see from the stickers on them, they were made by KW for Eibach, I think eibach just changed the springs to their red springs. They only offer height adjustment - not compression & rebound - this has been pre set by eibach/KW for a sporty feel without being too firm/agressive. They do ride well in most scenarios. Also for sale which would be a nice adition when installing these are a set of Superpro front shock absorber poly bushes - new in Packaging £60 These retail around £115 - I bought several sets of superpro to install with the new coilovers but found i had already done these previously so not required. Great adition which helps the shocks do their thing and gets rid of the sloppy oem rubber bush. Collection only due to size - Pontefract, West Yorkshire All boxed up ready to go. Advertising on here and the 350z facebook page first to fellow owners

I am all for these higher prices, value of mine has just gone up £4.75 on back of this.

So I decided to bite the bullet and bought the Redline Oil: I must say, only been out for a 15 minute drive today plus the initial drive back from garage but gears feel much smoother. So new 2nd and 4th Synchros fitted and the "right" oil in. I took it upto about 80 in 3rd (6k revs) and no issues into 4th so will wait now until new season with fingers crossed that its one less thing to worry about. 2nd was always stiff and now feels completely different as well. Obviously too early to recommend this oil over anything else but will update this next year IF it does the business. Who knew too slippy could be bad.

Found an old topic on the site where opie oils recommended just this Redline product So the Gearbox company may have a point, may need to get this?