G1en

I’m with you Davey, its catch 22 with the zed exhausts, the flexis are the lowest point and first thing to hit the ground/speed humps but because they have some give they save the shock on the rest of the exhaust. Unfortunately they frey/crack/break after not too much impact so you have to replace the y section. If you went with a stillen y piece you eliminate this but then if you walloped that the shock/impact would travel to the next fixed point, in my case with aftermarket hfc’s that means its the manifolds which would never end well. I have just fitted a milltek y piece and this definitely sits at least an inch higher than my old cobra one did so should last a bit longer whilst still having flexis on as well.

No codes or engine light like you. Only happened when i was tootling along then floored the accelerator, it felt like the ecu didnt know what Fuel/air to use car spluttered for a second or two then the power got fed in, didnt do it when you slowly fed the power in although it did feel lacking on power overall. I started a thread on here recently with video attached. At idle and keeping foot on accelerator at 10/20% the revs slowly climb to 2k then drop before increasing again, you could check to see if yours does this. As i said above though, the remap has sorted mine and my issue was made worse by having tomei cams and new high flow cats. Goods news is Alex can save you a fortune on whichever part you may need if you go down the used replacement option.

Thats good to know Alex, its those round toothed parts at the bottom of the picture i think is my issue and what i was referring to above. Do you have any for a HR? think a HR has one for both intake and exhaust side where as the DE is just intake. not sure which one i need or if i need both?

Just had something similar to what you describe with mine. Took it to horsham and they diagnosed it (i may get this wrong) as a sticking valve? To do with the variable valve timing that connects to the end of the camshafts, they said it was fairly common and when it sticks the revs can drop then the cams are out of timing and the ecu tries to sort everything out resulting in the stuttering and loss of power and what seems like mis-firing. Good news is they mapped 90% of the issue out and my car drives much better now with all the power i had previously plus 2bhp more. bad news is a new replacement vvt bit costs £1000 upwards if i decide to “cure” the issue rather than mask it. I have probably explained that all wrong but like Alex says, one of the traders/tuners on here will be able to tell you the exact issue if you pay them a visit, does sound exactly like my issue though.

To the tuners and knowledgeable folk. After fitting new kinetex high flow cats and milltek y piece, the car has developed a very annoying lumpiness/hesitation when accelerating in certain gears/rpms. its like the ecu doesnt know what air/fuel mixture to use or throttle input is all wrong. It just kind of hangs for a second or two then feeds the power in. Not what i need for either general driving and certainly not on track when i get back to it. Link to video below, this was filmed on the driveway and throttle held steady in nuetral at only about 20%. You can see the revs drop slightly and hesitation just below 2k. My foot never moved on the pedal. Obviously this is magnified when im driving. Am i right in thinking this could be sorted with another re-map or could it be something else less/more expensive? car has been mapped twice but last time to the old hfc’s which horsham had said prob degraded hence me fitting new ones, i havent had the ecu light come on since either, it came on every week previously due to O2 sensors. car also has tomei high lift cams fitted. i have already tried an ecu reset, throttle position reset, idle reset, and cleaned maf sensors just in case but to no avail. thinking outside the box could it be the crossover from closed loop to open loop map and a relatively big difference in afr’s which has been magnifield by the new cats?

For the wheels, i would guess if you swapped them with someone for standard wheels and tyres or even the rays you could easily ask for £100-£150 per wheel your way so an extra £500 or so provided the condition of the wheels/tyres is of a similar ilk. As you say the lgmt’s are a very exclusive sought after wheel so even in need of a refurb they have a good value, if you plan on running the car moving forwards you might be as well sell them and let someone else enjoy them and refurb them to their requirements. if your thinking of selling the car, stick it on ebay with a reserve price, like you say, there may be plenty of punters that will want a “project” car for varying reasons. Ie if the rear arches are rusted, they may plan on cutting them out anyway for a wide body kit. Just be as honest as possible with the description and set the reserve to what your comfortable with. if you decide to keep it, and this is a left field suggestion, near to me (you would have to research colleges near you) there is a college that runs mechanics and bodyshop type courses and apprenticeships and they are always wanting cars to work on. They usually end up with scrap/mot failures that are gifted to them but they would relish a zed to work on, obviously if its your daily that would be an issue but getting your car sorted for free could be an option further down the line?

Found this online, offers “some” explanation https://www.lgo.org.uk/decisions/planning/other/16-004-729

There you go, as per alex. For the purpose of track days or sprints it will serve the purpose of having a visible toe point for recovery but i wouldnt ever use mine to tow another car or such like, i would always use the correct point, i take it this is more for looks though, yes.

I have my rear tow hoop connected there. Mine is a solid metal bracket with hoop on the end, it fixes with 2 bolts and washers through the hole On your pic and it has been used twice to pull me out of the gravel traps so whether its a legitimate toe point or not it certainly can be used. for what you have there you are gonna need a long bolt and nut with 2 square plate washers either side of the hole.

Horsham did say they thought the cats were degraded/blocking the flow. I may have to swap them over, i need a new y pipe anyway so could renew and see what that does. Thanks for the info

Yeah, in theory it should be fine. Its supposed to have an overcharge/undercharge safety cut off anyway so it wont charge above a certain voltage and cuts off to protect itself when it drops below a set voltage. The bonus is it displays the voltage when you press the button on it so will see how it goes

@msitpro 267 whp think it was, they were dissapointed as usually they are 10-20bhp more but all others dyno,d with cam swap had decats, headers and full cold air intakes, i have to have cats for racing so it restricts the flow obviously but does leave me with option of increasing in future. Forgetting the numbers the torque/power is noticeable above 5k and it sounds great. @Kieran O'Quick as soon as i posted the battery jobby i knew you would be on it. It has slightly more CCA than a standard battery but only half the AH. And im fairly sure you cant jump these off, you have to recharge them with a dedicated charger so thats the risk.

Update 17/05/20 Well what a crazy couple of months its been for the world. As if life isn't stressful enough, its goes and throws a biblical plague in the form of Covid-19 at everyone. I'm sure like most people, the end of March was summed up with one line, What the F-KFC is going on? The company I work for closed all branches the following morning after the "Stay at home Message" and being a branch manager meant my workload went crazy having to do HR and Security things completely out of the normal. Anyway, I am back at work now but its going to be a long time before we see "normal" again. Putting a hold on the wax and shine hobby could have come at just the right time or completely wrong time depending if your glass is half empty or half full. It got me out of all the extra work, uncertainty and financial ties but going by this forum and the wider social media, I reckon I could have shifted a boat load of car cleaning goodies as everyone has been washing their cars 5 times a week. It is as they say history now and luckily for me my employers have paid most staff in full so I am very thankfull for that. My main use for the 350z is enjoying it competing at Hillclimbing as you will have gathered by now but unfortunately, like all other sports, many events have been cancelled. As it stands currently, no motorsport is going to happen before July at the earliest so I will just have to see when and If the Zed can stretch its legs this year. I must say, on the couple of occasions I have took her out for a blast just to keep the juices flowing and battery charged, it felt like a different animal now its got the tomei cams and tune. So, speaking of keeping the battery going, I decided to invest the money I wasn't spending of Mcdonalds and KFC during this lockdown on a Lithium-Ion battery. I saw a post on this forum about someone getting one and couldn't believe the price. I thought they were around 700-800 quid (and they are at demon-tweeks and the like) but this one from Powerlite is only £250 ish and in theory should be fine for the Zed. it says on their website something about upto 4ltr engines I think. So here it is next to the Bosch S4 I took out: So as you might guess, first problem was the size and getting it secured down in the battery bay. The height was too low for the standard clamp so onto bodge 1, how to make it sit higher, after trip to local car parts store and wandering the isles, I came up with this: 4 cork sanding blocks gaffer taped together which would raise the battery to a "standard" height. Cork is fairly dense so shouldn't squash under pressure, its water tight now with the tape over and it doesn't slide when secured down so its a win in my eyes. It now fits: I then proceeded to connect the terminals only for the positive to be too loose and not secure enough, as the copper terminals are tapered it was just sliding off, time for bodge-it number 2, thanks to the forum again, I remember reading about using a bit of thin copper to wrap around the post thus so enlarging the diameter. I nipped down to B&Q to find some. On entering the carpark on a Saturday lunchtime, I was greeted with a queue that stretched for what seemed like 4 and a half miles to get in. with nothing else to do that day, another negative of lockdown, I waited in line, truth be told it was around a hour wait to get in, where I found these bad boys: Just the ticket I assumed, so I cut off the nibs and measured around the copper terminal like so: My delight soon turned to "what a fc*kwit" as the copper sleeve was too big to fit inside the positive terminal and at that point I realised that the terminals were 2 different sizes and I had attached them to the battery the wrong way round, after swapping them over , both were coupled up no hassle and I threw the B&Q purchase at the wall shouting a few obsbletives for good measure. Now please take pity on me as I had wasted 2 hours of my life to learn this valuable lesson that had never dawned on me, you see when you buy a battery, you just connect it up, you never usually have to attached the terminals to it and because they look the same size, I assumed they were, anyway turned out bodge number 2 was not needed and here it is, sat in all its glory and the car sitting 13KGs? lighter so win win. As a side note, it actually served its secondary reason for purchase, it started the car! took it for a quick blast, charged up fine, it has a handy button on the top that you press and it shows you the voltage, apparently anything over 13 is fine. It read 13.9 after a drive, the car has been sat for a week and I tested today and it shows 13.6 so by quick man maths that tells you when its coupled up and powering the alarm etc. it will be good for around 3 weeks before needing to be started/topped up. Will keep an eye on it. Next Quarentine job that you wouldn't normally do but do because your bored and trying to fill time was Gold reflective tape for the intakes. Now this can be a bit marmite, and after looking online its a bit like the whole intake debate, their is no conclusive proof reflective tape actually helps lower intake temps so armed with this "its a waste of time" info I proceeded to start and waste my time. The tape was £20 for 10mt which was enough to do the 2 air boxes (apart from the bottoms) I had a little left over but I have silicone hoses for top part so didn't need it/ use it on those. First things first, air boxes out, found a little surface rust around some bolts so got the small wire brush out, why not hey, while we are in there. Though about hammerite but didn't have a little brush to hand so had a tin of bilt hamber Dynax-s50 left so sprayed some of this over to protect it: Next I thought I would check the intakes just to see if there was any oil/crap build up. Great news, they looked very clean including the throttle body which kind of confirms as well why the car hardly uses any oil. Fingers crossed It looks like I have a good engine. So, onto the arts and crafts. The design of the stupid air boxes meant it took my half a day to tape these thing up. I wanted them to look semi-decent so didn't just wrap he tape all the way around like some Egyptian mummy, instead I cut out bits to sit between the various fins and nobbly bits. It was never gonna be perfect but thanks to my patience we ended up with this: I also noticed the foam was hanging off where the intake connects to the duct behind the bumper. I don't know how functional this is as when I have sorted it and re-fitted, there is still a gap anyway all way round but it gave me another excuse to play - how long is the queue at B&Q? for anyone that's not played this game, get yourself down, you don't know what your missing. I also played the sister game today aswell - How long will I be, at KFC? that was only 30 mins and was well worth it. back to the post, purchase some foam draught excluder and wrapped around like so: Intakes complete, I reinstalled and admired my work, definitely need some more gold now in the bay to complement it, possibly paint the engine cover and strut brace? I reckon they are now good for an extra 0.1hp Can't wait to find out. Keep safe everyone and hopefully we can get doing some normal stuff soon if the small minority of idiots don't ruin it for us.

Just had an epiphany if you call your son ZOSE (pronounced ho-zay) and you use capitals then spin it upside down it would read 350Z thats one for the die hards and in next weeks edition of utter useless and barely valid points we discuss ways of getting bhp into family names, tune in.

But the trustworthy man has left you a mastercard with about 6.5 million dollars on. you know “about” could be more Like 7 million or could be less like 0 dollar. Its a chance you take with good faith from the bottom of his heart.

Cougerstore is closest to you i think for service. Used to take mine there but they cant do “lowered” cars last time i spoke to Mitz. So Horsham developments have done last two and can also do the up-rev tuning.

The most common problems on a HR 350z and stuff i have had to do (sometimes more than once) in no particular order Front banana arm bushes -uprate To superpro or similar if they need doing, also Main diff bushing prone to leaking. can go a step further and uprate anti-roll bars, after market offer adjustability. The more poly bushes you fit, the greater feel/handling. W brace underneath - rusts away every 5-7 years or so, again aftermarket options are available. Oil gallery gaskets - these will need doing at some point in the cars life but varies from 50-150k and its a big expense. Exhaust - standard one is heavy, rust prone and low noise, many many aftermarket choices. CSC and clutch - seems to fail when you least want it to. Full uprated kits available inc single mass flywheels. suspension - will be showing its age, good upgrade for looks and handling if you get a good coilover kit. For extra expense, adjustable camber arms and toe bolts for optimum alignment options once fitted. oil and fluids - car may have a full service history but some non yearly fluids may have been overlooked - gearbox oil, diff oil, power steering fluid, brake/clutch fluid, coolant. I would recommend putting in high temp clutch/brake (same stuff) fluid. Also new spark plugs and air filters if required. brakes - braided lines help prevent spongy feel along with above. New uprated pads can feel night and day to cheap ones. Discs if they seem past their best. Lots of conflicting reports on which are best Disc type, i have had plain, grooved, drilled and slotted etc just get a reputable make. Tyres - the single most cost effective way to transform the car pound for pound in my view. Get a premium driver focussed tyre for maximum grip, feel and smiles. Other than that, check for rust and treat now to prevent it getting worse, Getting a re-map improves throttle response and drive-ability thats your starter list for 10. Sure there will be things i have missed but you can easily see why your bank balance can rapidly diminish.

When i first got my K4 i didnt have an outside tap so filled 2x25ltr water containers which just about managed a car. One for the pre wash then one for the final rinse. You have to be fairly quick round the car though but it is more than adequate for a routine wash. It would be no good on a heavy soiled car. For reference, a 25ltr is roughly 2 buckets so it took the equivalent of 4 buckets. i got that fed up filling the containers though and dragging them outside i just installed an outside tap.

Fuchs titan pro race S for me used over last few years https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68896-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-5w-30-ester-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx now i don't proclaim to be an oil expert by any means but this has never let me down, and i can give the car some abuse although admittedly i don't do many miles each year but what i do is usually at 7k revs. had to possibly top up Less than 500ml over 6000 miles (obviously each engine could be different) Having an oil cooler installed helps as i have cooked the brake and clutch fluid several times but this stuff has not let me down yet engine oil wise and always looks so clean when i renew compared to every other car and oil i have used in the past.

A food bank in Knottingley where my parents live was raided last night and they stole all the supplies so it has to close (full story on BBC news online) It really boils my **** what scum we have living amongst us in general society and this whole situation exaggerates it. I hope if we go into lockdown they call the army in and they are instructed to shoot looters on sight. I really dont get the whole toilet paper situation, i thought in times of crises people buy gold as its a sure thing but seems now its best to invest in triple quilted velvet?

That’s obviously a work of fiction anyway as we all known the earth is flat.

At last, some explanation why everyone (Who could) has bought 400 toilet rolls.

If nso93 is too far i have a spare wheel and jack available (350z) in west yorkshire.

@davey_83 ive seen trigger attachments that go on the top of rattle cans which i would get if i was doing this again. I never realised how weak and pathetic your finger gets constantly pressing a trigger. I was struggling to wipe my back side for 2 days due to lack of finger dexterity. Anyway moving on.... @andy james my free time is the 2 hours little mason sleeps at lunchtime. Ella, now 9 is coming to the age for girls when she cant stand dad, another couple of years and she will be hurling abuse at me. Lol

Continued.... After spending most of last year with a bare polyurethane bumper I decided to get round to giving it a lick of paint. The original plan was to either get it professionally sprayed or wrapped but with both options costing around £250-£300 I plumped for me having a go with rattle cans at a cost of £50 all in, so here was the line-up: Now I will be up front and say the final outcome is not that great. The orange peel is more like a Spanish orchard of naranjas BUT from afar, and by afar I imply something like 200mtrs you cant tell. In hindsight, I should of wet sanded the clearcoat, before that I should not skimped on the main colour and bought 3 cans instead of 2 and I have no idea how long it will even stay on the bumper anyway as many internet threads worn of the perils of painting polyurethane, even the paint shop and a vehicle paint repair man who was in at the same time as me had different views as to what you do/don't do or need. So with that and me confused as hell, I purchased some cans and thought to myself, even if it turns out terrible, its only a bumper and can be re-done or wrapped later on. Below you will see the 6 stages from top left to bottom right. Firstly I had already cleaned the bumper before sanding with 400/800 grit sandpaper and wiping clean with panel wipe and painters wipes. Next I sprayed the adhesion aid, this didn't stick and cover as I expected, I'm not sure you should use it or not but some places say to so I did, because it kind of run, I smeared it across the surface with a cloth and let it become tacky before applying another coat and doing the same. Maybe I didn't clean/degrease/sand properly to start with, maybe its the wrong product, I havn't got a scooby. All I knew was I was carrying on regardless. Next I sprayed the high build primer (again, I asked for a plastic primer and got told at the shop this was best) It seemed to go on great and the adhesion promotor definitely must have helped. Next was the base colour, I had it mixed to the car colour, I sprayed 2 coats as I had 2 cans and because its a large bumper it took almost a can per coat. This just isn't enough really as you can tell in the odd spot at the finish where you can see there is barely and black paint in areas. The other problem with spray cans is because I was mainly spraying downwards, every now and then I would get a drop of paint fall off the nozzle and onto the bumper making a blob here and there. I tried to wipe one off with my finger only to find it took the whole paint off back to primer so quickly realised I would just have to live with it or spend hours refining the finish afterwards. Final stage was 2 coats of 2k clearcoat. Now 2k is, I am told, a chemical resistant clearcoat like normally found on your car and is resistant to petrol/oils, "normal" clearcoat is not, its all a learning curve. I let that dry and then weeped at the results. I decided to push ahead and ""protect" my work of sh**e I used some old polish I had in the garage, some scholl deep cut, then general cut/finish grade to try and flat out the orange peel but it didn't it, it just served to enhance the shininess of the turd I had created, Anyways I could just not be bothered with wet sanding or starting again so my intention was to coat the bumper with Gtechniq EXO I had left from doing the car but as soon as I tried panel wiping the finish to get the polish remnents off it made all the paint go really weird. it was like I was scratching the finish and creating marks and dull spots so I quickly stopped and got the cutting polish back out which got the finish back to the shiny turd. I changed approach and grabbed something else I had in the garage instead, some ptfe polish followed by hydro-coat from carchem, This went on fine and ggive the very thin paint another layer of protection. So, What have we learnt? 1- Part of what you are paying for professionally is the "expertise" and right equipment to do a great job 2- If you attempt something like this, make sure you do several weeks training on your index finger as by the end I couldn't even press the nozzle down 3- Polyurethane may or may not be harder than other materials? I don't know 4- I will probably have to pay someone to sort it later this year anyway as either A- The paint will flake off or B- I will crash and take the paint off Anyway, onto some easier tasks, I had not had a right front arch liner for a while after my wheel decided to chew the original one up so whilst the car was off the road I purchased a cheap replica off ebay. Now normally I would not recommend buying cheap Chinese tat but at around £25 I though it was worth a punt. It came rolled up in a tube, not great I thought, but after opening it sprung into some sort of shape and because its a much more plyable type of plastic than the OEM one, you can bend and shape it really easily. I had a big shock when I put it in the arch and it fit perfectly with all the holes lining up for the clips, RESULT for once: Next, after stating in last post, I had not checked my K&N filters for 3 years I thought I best do, turns out they are still very clean, just a little shrubbery stuck in them from grassy excursions but much better than expected, They are good for at least another year or two. Finally, anyone that has transported wheels and tyres in their car will know its a pain and can be messy so I plumped for some wheel covers which will keep the wheels dry/clean/safe and look the part too. They even indicate which wheel on the car it is so should prevent any errors when swapping wheels in a rush on track. Before I put the wheels to bed I gave the front two a clean and re-coated with gtechniq C5 as after changing the brake fluid last year some spilt onto the inner drums eating into the finish and staining them so that was 95% sorted now and re-protected for the next "incident" Harewood Practice day coming this month, then 3 championship rounds booked, JPS show at Coventry booked for August. Onwards and upwards....