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Everything posted by G1en
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Latest Update from Pembrey Circuit Longest travel yet, around 260 miles each way
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Latest Round at Harewood: thumbnail courtesy of my daughter
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Yep was gonna post, check the connector that goes through the door frame, check the wiring as it may have twisted/broken, then there is the window switch itself, can’t really be much else. hope you get sorted.
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Car looks superb buddy
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Use the force
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Finally got it working. took the door card off again, undid the connection that goes through the door, cut open all the rubber sheaths and checked every wire for continuity and/or damage that runs into the car. Every one was fine. was at a total loss and accepted the fact that i would just have to live with it when upon putting the door connector back together realised i didnt have the locking part of the block, think i had butchered it and threw it away when i run new speaker wires through door. I thought to myself i wonder if the connector had just worked its way loose? low and behold pushed it together as hard as i could and when everything else was back plugged in, the window worked and so did the wing mirrors! so all along it was just a loose connector pic below of which one im referring to: the main connector that goes through the door jamb, anyone elses will have the additional plastic tab that locks it in. At least in my case if things stop working again, its the first place to look and a 2 minute fix. RESULT
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Latest Video from Round 6 of the Harewood Championship New PB achieved
- 248 replies
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this is only thing left to investigate really, connected the motor/relay unit up to battery direct and it works fine, does the same weird noises with the old switch and new switch so extremely unlikely both are defective, wiring looks fine in door so will have to check the door joint, i did drill the connector a while back to run new speaker wire so that may have caused an issue but has been working fine for last 2 years. Also noticed today, only the drivers side wing mirror folds in (and really struggles, again like its not getting enough power), the passenger side doesn't move at all and when i try the drivers window switch all the led in switch start flickering as well as the noises, so must be something wiring/earth based somewhere, just so annoying. I am also thinking i have driven home from racing recently in monsoon conditions so possibly water has gotten into the electrics somewhere and may be the issue?
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Think i may have narrowed it down some more but even more confused now, i took everything apart again, checked all wiring for continuity which was good, wired the motor unit to a 9v battery which i saw on a youtube vid to check if it works, i could hear a click but no movement so hooked it up to the main car battery and hey presto, motor is working. So motor is good, switch is good, connectors are good and wiring good. It can only be the fact its getting 8-9 volts power supply in the car and it needs nearer 12v to function but how the hell can i get more voltage to it, is there a drain somewhere? How come the other window works fine? any ideas?
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Still scratching my head with this, now swapped the motor, switch unit and checked continuity of wiring- all ok but window still not working. as per video below comments the noise stops if I unclip the motor connector (that feeds through the door) so my thoughts, does the motor need grounding somehow? I also noticed both the old motor and new one, you cannot move the centre spigot (that turns the cable/runners) I assumed it should be like this but maybe not? did I get a seized motor off ebay? also checked the runners/guides that move the window up/down, they are all moving freely and good.
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Had a look today and its the actual switch that is making the noises, nothing coming from the window motor, all other buttons on the switch (passenger window, central locking) work fine. anyone had this before, is the switch making noises because the motor has failed or has the switch/circuit gone bad? Only safe option is to get a switch unit and a motor unless its the wiring/signal between them thats failed.
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Rounds 18 and 19 of the BARC Connaught Championship First visit to Prescott for the Zed.
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Firstly, apologies if this have been on a topic before, just needed a quick insight as i will be trying to sort tomorrow. Driver side window has stopped working but when i press the switch i can hear the motor trying to operate it, like a clicking sound one way and a grinding noise the other so I would assume the switch and power are fine. Is it the motor/regulator or is something likely to be stuck?, everything online just shows replacing a bad motor but none of them state if they can hear any noise before replacing, read that gears can wear out? this sounds plausible but is that in the motor unit itself or another part? anyone had same issue and can give a quick diagnostic before ordering a motor and pulling door apart. Thanks
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Events coming thick and fast now Rounds 16 and 17 of the BARC Connaught Speed Championship at Loton Park.
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Back to Harewood at the weekend for the July Meeting. Round 4 of the Harewood Championship. Rounds 14 & 15 of the Connaught Championship.
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Possibly me too, would be great having a mini forum Spa trip.
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Latest Video from Sunday at Three Sisters.
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Latest instalment from Coventry Motofest.
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couple of #fast shots from Aintree. Also got mentioned when giving out the awards afterwards, how awesome it sounded. double win.
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Latest Round of Connaught Speed Championship Yesterday at Aintree Went a little better than last year... Next weekend I will be at Coventry for the motofest festival, anyone popping along, keep an eye out and cheer me on!
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Watched this a few days back, makes very interesting viewing although the caveat is they only tested one tyre type, one wheel make and at one track (small test track) So results might and no doubt will, vary significantly with different setups, and cars/drivers for that matter. BUT, taking it at face value, who knew the stretched tyre look is actually faster than the "normal" straight sidewall. All the show car stance boys laughing at us now. Also questions the unsprung weight argument as the wider wheels were all faster than the narrower options with the same size tyre fitted, even though they obviously weigh more? Would be interested to know what setups actual race teams have tried and/or run as that's more real world info I would like.
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Yesterdays Video from Harewood Round 2
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having done multiple alignment setups i can say this: Your car will pull to the right on a flat road as both right side wheels have more positive camber than the left. it might not be so apparent on single lane roads as these are usually cambered to the left for drainage etc. but on a motorway it will be annoying. They have given you a very safe toe setup with toe in front and rear which stabilizes the car but not that great for turn in and response, ie it will feel a bit numb If you don't have adjustable front camber arms I don't know how they have changed the front camber as there is no oem adjustment so as you say it points to something else that is an issue, like worn bushes, bent arms etc... you will have to investigate this. Ideally you want same same camber both sides around negative 1.5 deg for general road use.
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And Yesterdays Video from Round 1 of the Harewood Hillclimb Championship.
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Also got my new "company" car this week. Must say it might be FWD and boring but the refinement inside. so comfy and quiet and plenty of tech as standard.
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