G1en

So does mine, but this is further forward and more to do with the suspension in my opinion. Just wondered if there is anything suspension/arm/bushing related i may have never replaced that could cause a bang over med-large potholes.

Top notch. Still one of the best looking cars around when fully detailed.

Not sure how to explain this but when i hit a largish bump in the road or a decent sized bump under braking (ie when the weight is more forward) the suspension feels/sounds like its bottoming out. I have eibach pro street coilovers, eibach anti roll bars, eibach adjustable arms and polybushed so there is very little movement. I have basically tried jumping on the suspension turretts whilst in the garage and cant get it to make any noise. (Just normal suspension movement which is only around 1” as its so stiff) i cant see anything catching or with potential to catch either so am scratching my head to whay it could be other than bottoming out but the coilovers are set to max height and the bumps that cause the noise are not “massive” as such. The car is fairly low (around 4-5”) ground clearence so was thinking if it maybe the undertray or a brace catching the road. I have a zspeed metal undertray which sits low but its not that type of feel/sound anyway sorry for waffling. Any ideas for things to check?

Welcome along, great purchase

Welcome

Welcome along

I sell the hydrate 80 to convert the rust and protect then also the dynax products to offer furthur protect. Check out the website

After upgrading many parts i need to clear these out. All from 2008HR at 65k miles unless stated, all prices collected from Pontefract. I can arrange delivery on smaller items for £5 Rear differential / pumpkin £100 *******NOW SOLD********* I purchased from Andy on here a doner diff when i upgraded to a kazz 2-way so it could be built off site first by a specialist then put straight in. This would be ideal for same job or direct replacement, no issues when removed. HR OEM air intake hoses/tubes £30 removed these when changing to silicone mishimoto versions. OEM rear camber arms £30 I have sanded down and resprayed them satin black. OEM air filters £20 Now most would just chuck these away but they are as new. Literally put in at service and i changed for K&N filters less than 500 miles later. OEM front camber arms £40 Just removed these after fitting adj arms purchased from zmanalex. OEM rear privacy boot attachment £25 Rear carpet £10 ***NOW SOLD*** has 2 little slits in where brackets went through to hold boot divider. Michelin Pilot Supersport Tyres £100 ***NOW SOLD*** pair of 245/40 R18 done around 4k miles in 2 years. Michelin Pilot Supersport Tyres £100 ***NOW SOLD*** pair of 275/40 R18 same as prev done around 4k miles in 2 years, listed separately as not a common size but if anyone wants to take both pairs i will let them go for £150. OEM spacesaver spare wheel £50 never been used as far as i can tell.

This “condensed” version is now on the wax and shine website along with the option to purchase the winning product.

Welcome along

A common issue and usually resolved by changing the gear oil and adding molyslip in with it. If that doesnt sort it you prob have bigger problems.

It dries like most other waxes, your car bonnet isnt sticky when you wax it but it never fully cures so as to self heal like mentioned before.

Welcome along

There are various options. There is not a definitive lifespan on wax as it will lessen over time naturally but the wax does self heal where paints when chipped wont, so potentially expose the metal. The S50 is for cavities so out of direct contact. I sprayed it into any hole (easy tiger) underneath and behind arch liners etc. The UB is for exposed areas underneath and is a brown/black coating so you can see where you have used it, i put this onto any exposed metal on the underside. The UC is similar to UB but clear so better for areas you see that you dont want to turn brown, i used it on the suspension components, in the arches and cills, and behind front/rear bumpers. The hydrate 80 converts and protects already rusted surfaces. I didnt need this as the underside was very clean but for older DE models this will sort any existing rust issues. Have a look online. The products get great reviews and i was very happy with using them.

I have undersealed mine last year and used bilt hamber dynax range after scouring the web for reviews. I now sell the very stuff i used. Below is link to a kit but everything is available individually on the site also. https://waxandshine.co.uk/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbilt-hamber-underseal-kit

The car is great but not really a recommended first car. Without wanting to sound like Dad ( im only in my 30's) The insurance is gonna be through the roof. Only a few companies will do it, if you are 18 or so, and its gonna be a think of a number, add a nought and treble it kind of quote. Then you have due to the age, (as with many older cars) the fact that the clutch, exhaust, gallery gaskets, arms and many other common probs could need replacing at any point so you need to have a grand or 2 contingency funds available or you could be left with a great looking car sat on the drive not moving. Saying all that, i'm sure it will pull you the girls (or boys) shame there's no back seats, and if you can afford it, go for it, just don't go driving silly in the wet until your comfortable with the car. Dad advice over.

Welcome along

If you can condense the 3 year test into something i can put onto the web site I can throw a couple of free bottles your way! Seeing as i sell the stuff, will make a good newsletter/future promo option.

Still on oem fans, like i put, i have had no issues with mishi rad, def does the job as it gets lava grade hot but that adds more heat into engine bay, at least its not inside the engine is my view.

I have the HR version of the Extreme kit, very good upgrade to stock although clutch is much firmer so your left leg gets a good workout in traffic. many say about the noise but if you have an aftermarket exhaust like me its not noticeable over that anyway.

Yep, its an inherent by-product of a big engine crammed into a "small" space. Mine gets ridiculously hot. I have a Mishimoto Rad (although many say this is worse than OEM) and mishimoto oil cooler. Temp gauge has never been above midway even on track but even after just a short drive you can open the bonnet and cook your breakfast on the engine if you wanted. Remember I had the car in the garage once after a long drive, left the bonnet up to help it cool down, I was down to my undies after 10 mins it was that warm in garage due to engine heat. I think a vented bonnet would def help get rid of some of the heat build up.

Welcome along for parts, definitely stick to traders on here, dont be tempted to buy from ebay in order to save a few quid.

Got a couple of the gtechniq C2 left in stock if anyone is tempted? Free P1 polish if you spend £30 as well. Ordering more this weekend but gtechniq take upto 3 weeks for delivery

The AR-1s are already fitted Kieran, Mega grip compared to MPSS, so much so I boiled my clutch fluid last week messing around. Was on the reserve list for this weekend but didn't make it, already booked and on list for next month at Harewood though so will definitely be there! Just to give you some idea of how quick they warm up, garage put 35psi in, at Japfest Andy James said I need to drop to 29/30 for normal driving and 19/20 for track. so before I set off home I let some air out down to prob around 30psi, didn't have my gauge to measure exactly but when I got home (from just cruising on motorway) the pressure was around 42 all round! Nankang had a stand at Japfest and I got talking to guy there who said they were very pleased with the performance but don't drive in heavy rain, for comparison their performance street tyre is rated at 320 compound, their existing track tyre (NS-2R) which is decent in wet is 160 compound. The AR-1 is 80 and very soft so should be great for us.