G1en

@ZMANALEX should have some used led rear lights. I got my new replacement from clark motorsport. You will have to check if they can post to you

I can remember watching something on 5th gear a few years back where they tested different fuels in a golf gti (i think) and there was a few bhp and mpg difference between the standard unleaded and the premium offerings. They all varied by 1 to 5hp so they did make a difference but the average driver and car would never know. Obviously for racing it may make a tenth or 2 per lap difference swapping fuels but for everyone else its a marketing exercise to get more of your hard earned ££ that said i still put the most expensive fuel in whatever car i have as in my mind it will perform better, last longer and protect the engine so the marketing has hooked me and my walket in

Welcome along

When the garage did mine they used a dremel type air powered machine. It took a while, over an hour i think and they went through a fair few bits/attachments as its alloy your grinding and it soon wears down the bits and clogs them. Like you say its fairly tight for space but the guy just preserved and got there in the end.

Welcome along

I used the por15 stuff and bilt hamber dynax products. It took me 2 days at home on axle stands but that included a thorough job taking off skirts, bumpers, arch liners etc and fully cleaning/prep first. Great satisfaction when finished and you have complete peace of mind. I sell the dynax stuff plus more on the website.

Welcome

Give it some proper abuse (i mean red line shifting) for 10 mins and see if the oil temp goes up. If it doesnt you may well have an issue as the zeds usually get very hot, more so with no oil cooler. like you say, it cant be good long term for the oil or engine if it never gets upto specified operating temp. I dont know if 70deg is ok someone should be able to confirm.

Welcome along

Thats what the bilt hamber products are, just generalised it as underseal.

Yep, no dramas there, get your diff bush changed next time its in the garage. If you plan in keeping the car a while, i do an underseal kit from Bilt Hamber, easy to use and will help protect the parts more prone to rusting.

It may be a less complete version of the standard front cross member. See pic below of my ultra racing one (on right) if you took away the front part and extreme left/right overhangs the central 4 bolt holes are roughly in same position as your 4 fixing points. Although i would be suprised if it did replace this as the extreme wings hold the banana arms if i recolect.

Welcome along

Stick me provisional down for this Rob. Enjoyed it last year.

I would say your decision boils down to what you want the car to be to you. As someone who is more performance minded than asthetics I would blow your money on the best tyres. They are the single most “performance” upgrade you can do for the money. If you care more looks or functionality and don’t intend to stretch the car than get the cheaper tyres and whatever else you have your eye on.

from me too

No idea on the pic but welcome

Welcome along Any before and after pics?

Welcome along

Excellent stuff, braver man than me but i’m sure it will be very satisfying once completed.

Any room for a slightly battle scarred Zed this year?

If you have a standard car its just a case of making sure all your fluid/oil levels are topped up and take a litre of oil/coolant/brake fluid if you have them. Check your pads have plenty of meat on them and check your tyres for any damage before you set off, also check your treads and make sure pressures are all the same. If you havnt checked for ages you may have 1 wheel at 27psi and the opposite at 37psi which will catch you out on track. Its 35psi on standard wheels/tyres nissan spec so i would start out at 33 all around then come in after a few laps when warmed up and adjust accordingly if needed. Different size wheels and tyres may need other pressures, check if needed. Again take a tyre inflator and pressure gauge with you. Always best to take a proper jack and wheel/torque wrench with you in case you come off or need to inspect underneath etc but there will be plenty of others that will help with assistance or tools if required. Finally, its best to have a warm up lap and cool down lap at around 50-70% to A- get engine, brakes and tyres upto temp and B- help everything cool down before coming off track. And enjoy yourself.

Welcome, great machine

Welcome snap with mine for the colour and diff.

I would rather take it to @Jez @ H-Dev than trust a local garage to be honest. Always used Mitz (cougarstore) but his lift is broke and he cant get lowered cars on his other lift so have to travel. The problem with your standard garages is they dont know what your asking for. When the clutch fluid boiled before and i got it back to a local garage i asked for the RBF660 stuff and showed him it on demontweeks. He rung his two suppliers who had never heard of it or knew what it was so then said he could only change it with the bog standard stuff he had in stock which is obviously no good for my use.