GappySmeg

That's got to be the best introduction ever Welcome!

I've just bought these for the wheel-arch liners: http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o00_s00 10 is all I need, and from the pictures they seem to be the exact same as OE.

Unbelievably, the first time I've spotted another Z in the wild since I've owned mine! Was outside the office having a vape, and you rumbled past, looking resplendent in white with a natty wing.

Hi gents, possibly noob being thick here... but was reading this offer from Tarmac: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/101156-steel-wheel-nuts-redblueblackchrome-and-neo-from-25-a-set/ Seems to be suggested that the wheel nut requirements are different between the standard-fit Touring wheel, and the optional-extra standard Rays wheel... something to do with the taper. Well, as I currently have Touring fitted, but have a nice shiny refurbished set of Rays waiting to go on, do I need to get new wheel nuts? If so, this presumably means that the McGuard locking wheel nuts currently on the car will be useless when I fit the Rays?

Are the holes going to perform any function? I would say leave the external appearance as 'stock' as possible.

Not owned a Street Triple, but cannot resist getting involved in some bike talk! Have ridden a Street once (briefly) and I reckon they'll be a great laugh... easily enough grunt to put grins on your face. My mate has a 2 year old Speed Triple, I get to ride it quite often, and it's good fun too. Personally not sure I could live with a naked as the wind blast grinds me down after a short while. Don't know how big you are, but both me and my mate are nudging 16 stone, and the suspension on the Speed shows it's lack of quality with either of us on it... I've heard the Street is no different. If you're chunky I've heard the Street Triple R's Ohlins suspension pays dividends. One thing I will say, whilst the build quality is quite good on the Street/Speed, it's certainly not Honda levels of quality. It wouldn't put me off, but there's enough of a difference to warrant a mention. Ultimately, you need to convince a friendly dealer that your serious, and blag an extended test ride.

Cool, which one did you go for? Did you get your bits from incartec or elsewhere? Yep got facia, loom & steering wheel control adapter from InCarTec. Then did some of the mods recommended on this forum: - soldered in new earth and ran to good body contact point - soldered TV wire to my new earth (strictly speaking an MOT failure) - created a loom to easily allow the head unit's speaker outputs to act as inputs to the Bose amps I will say that the stick-on windscreen mounted DAB aerial I got is a bit rubbish. .. can't beat a proper external one.

Welcome matey. Got mine just before xmas, and fitted a spanky new double-din headunit on the weekend... not too tricky once you've sourced the right bits (facia, loom, steering wheel controls adaptor).

You need to take that to Dragon's Den

Have I missed the boat on this, or can I have one? If not, can I stick my name down for the next batch?

The fact that Mark's graph shows a vaccuum in the plenum, presumably means the engine is sucking air from the plenum quicker than it can be replenished... showing the restriction is up stream of the plenum... so either the filter, associated pipework or maf... so bigger throttle body would make no difference until those other restrictions are corrected. That's my take...

Welcome... where the pics?

Wow... if I had known about this BEFORE I bought my head unit, I would be ordering that right now!

Have you seen this thread? http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/104974-350z-rays-anthracite-1010-condition/

Wewll as long as ive made 'some' gains then im happy! Yep... I would argue that the only figure that matters is the one from the 'bum dyno'

Interesting to see the same dyno arguments being made regarding cars, as there are with bikes (where my experience lies). Dynos are expensive to calibrate properly, so most aren't... therefore the absolute figures are irrelevant, and they should just be used to provide relative figures (e.g. compare pre vs post modification on same dyno) At least, that's my experience from bike tuning.

Continuing apace with fitting my new head unit... learnt a few new things... 1) the electrical connectors used by Nissan are the stupidest, most difficult to disconnect, pieces of crap of I've ever encountered! (This is my first ever Jap car BTW) 2) the extra weight on the boot lid caused by a thin layer of frost, is enough to turn it into a highly effective guillotine!!!

Was wracking my brain to think of an "extra" that my car doesn't have to explain the un-used connectors... satnav didn't occur to me! Bet it's to feed the satnav's voice output into the audio.

These 2 connectors are taped back with blue insulating tape on my audio loom (behind the head unit). Any idea what they are?

I can be... whereabouts in Bristol are you?

Assuming they're in very good condition, I'll give you £15 for the pair.

As you've removed headliner do you perhaps have sunvisor available?

Started installing by funky new Pioneer AVH-X5800DAB double-din head unit today. Have removed centre console, and OE bose head unit. Many many thanks to AFTERSHOX for writing this thread: http://www.350z-uk.c...l-–-superguide/ If I ever meet you, the beers are on me! Have installed my microphone in the A pillar... used an unfurled metal coat hanger to try and hook the cable as per AFTERSHOX's guide... got it on about 4th attempt. I haven't got too far with the install, as I wanted to get a good look at the state of the OE loom, and how much space their is behind the HU before I finalised the loom. Reason being, I want to ensure my spanky new HU has some breathing room around the cooling fins... which I think is going to mean locating as much of the loom as possible, off to the right, as there seems to be some free space there (essentially in front of the drivers left knee). Enough warbling... the main production of the day is this: Can you guess what it is yet?!?!

When warm my car idles about 950rpm, which I believe is 200rpm too high... am I right? Should I try the 'pedal dance' I've read so much about, or could that do more harm than good? Also, when revd (in neutral) although it picks up astonishingly quickly, the revs drop back down a bit slower than I would expect. Can take a couple of seconds to settle back at 950rpm. Is this just a characteristic? Could it be related to the high idle?

Also, I've just bought the same camera as you, also to go with a Pioneer head-unit... might be asking a few questions this weekend