Gus-350z

Hahaha just watched it again and see what you mean! :lol:

I think I remember reading somewhere it has lifts

The problem with dark matter is that no one's got their head around it yet (And black holes are just where spacetime itself gets confused)

Nice one! The veilsides are pretty rare now And I bet the induction kit sounds sweeet

Car looks great! Looks like you've already got (a rather large) aftermarket wing, front lip, lowered, smoothed badges (front and side), wheels etc etc Do you know if you have any mods under the bonnet too?

Hang on! That's not a cheeky red R35 in the back left of the thumbnail too is it?

Don't know if you've seen much of this in the news, but there are plans for a new type of bus - supposedly they're cheaper than building new subway networks etc etc. But anyway, without further a do, check out (what I think) are a bunch of model yellow 350z (with nismo kits too!) in the animation

Had this in my old car in 2nd gear - syncromesh was buggered Made coming off roundabouts good fun... needing one hand to hold it in gear, one hand to indicate and one hand to steer Probably need to get it looked at to be honest mate, but in the mean time go gentle on the box for a bit, and don't hold it in gear to stop it popping out - it'll just make the wear worse

Great looking car! Glad to hear you're already enjoying it! Welcome to the forum!

Welcome!

Welcome along! All the help and info you could possibly need on here! Looks like a cracker mate well done!

So much want! Love the sound of the RB motor

Looks like we missed the boat brillo

Spraying gas around an engine isnt a good idea since the motor can suck it in , I've seen this happen with those nitrous spraybar systems People have actually done this?! Or is it just for nitrous injection as opposed to cooling..

.... or you could just buy a more powerful car to start off with

Absolutely, that's a problem with planes I believe where icing restricts (and can eventually block) the intake.. which is bad when you're 30,000 feet above the ground My initial idea would be to just have a sleeve around the intake/intercooler which could be kept at a good low temp using bursts of liquid nitrogen... only because it'd probably be "easier" to plumb in and would probably last longer than dry ice

A fairly sizable (sorry) but interesting post taken from a physics forum There are a lot factors involved here, but as internal combustion engines follow the Otto or Diesel cycle, those cycles (which are less efficient than the Carnot cycle) are the right model to follow, rather than the Carnot cycle itself. Let's say we reduce the inlet air temperature from 300 Kelvin to 270 Kelvin (90%) while keeping compression ratio and RPM the same. Now, the engine ingests the same volume of air, but greater mass. This means that a greater mass of fuel will be needed and greater power will be produced. The compression step remains the same, that is, if before it doubled the temperature from 300K to 600K, it will now double the temperature from 270K to 540K. The combustion chamber pressure before ignition will also be the same. The burning of the fuel will now increase the temperature by a fixed amount, so in the first case it will reach 600+2000=2600K and in the second case it will reach 540+2000=2540K. Expansion will now half the temperature (assuming reversibility and neglecting the minor change in composition of the gas during combustion) so the exhaust temperatures are 1300K and 1270K. What we can see from this theoretical internal combustion engine cycle is that the efficiency of both compression and expansion is determined only by the compression ratio. But also note that a significant proportion of the energy generated in the expansion is needed to drive the compression. The proportion is marginally less at lower temperature (due to the fixed temperature increase provided by combustion) so the engine will theoretically run slightly more efficiently at lower temperature. For identical efficiency, we would need the fuel to increase the temperature by 2000K in the 300K ambient case and 1800K in the 270K ambient case. But as the temperature increase from combustion is independent of the ambient temperature, the lower ambient temperature gives higher efficiency, at least in theory. There are many practical factors that may affect this analysis. The first is that my exhaust temperatures are extremely high. I can assure you that a temperature increase of 2000K is typical for complete combustion of hydrocarbon in air Reciprocating internal combustion engines do run at close to complete combustion of all the air ingested, so it would appear that there are significant losses to the cooling system during the combustion process. My own experience is more with industrial gas turbines, which have proportionally much less loss to cooling systems, and an exhaust temperature arount 800K. Gas turbines never burn sufficient fuel to use all the oxygen in the inlet air, because the expansion turbine would melt. If suitable materials were available they would use all the oxygen, which would make them a lot more efficient. The next thing to consider is the valve timing. It will be apparent that if we have the same ratio on the compression and expansion stroke, we have effectively the same mass of gas entering the engine at 270-300K and leaving it at a higher temperature. The higher temperature means there is a higher pressure at the end of the expansion stroke, and if the exhaust valve opens too early, about 2-3 bar absolute (1-2 bar gauge) of pressure will be wasted. Although there are from time to time suggestions of ways to improve this situation, including closing the inlet valve late (to reduce compression) and opening the exhaust valve late (to increase the expansion) this is not a common pattern of operation. One reason is that when there is only 1-2 bar gauge pressure left, the amount of friction means that not much shaft power can be usefully extracted. However modern engines are often able to vary their valve timing and this complicates real-world analysis considerably. Thirdly, as per the above analysis an engine will produce more power in colder conditions due to the greater mass of air ingested. If more power is produced and friction stays the same, we would expect a small gain in engine efficiency, too. Finally, let us consider turbocharged engines. Here the pressure in the exhaust gas which would otherwise be wasted is used to drive a turbine, which compresses the air at the engine inlet. The primary motive for this is to increase power by increasing the mass flow into the engine. The work of compression heats the inlet air, so an intercooler is installed between the turbocharger and the engine. The purpose of this is to cool the air back down to ambient to further increase the mass flow of air into the engine. In conclusion, colder conditions produce a measurable increase in engine power (otherwise intercoolers would not be installed on turbo engines.) According to a theoretical cycle analysis they also produce an increase in efficency, though this is likely too small to be measurable, and may be negated or reversed by other factors.

Wouldnt have a great impact on the economy at all , not that that is a prime consideration running a large capacity supercharged engine Its something I have been looking into a fair bit recently I spose it makes sense if you already have a water to air heat exchange you can plumb into, beats refilling the tank with ice every so often. but back on topic (ish) is an engine actually any more efficient at turning fuel into power if the intake temps are lower? If the intake temps are lower, the air is denser.. denser air -> more O2 -> more O2 = more efficient combustion so yes Although colder engine temps would hinder the combustion so it's a weigh off.. I'd imagine you don't want the intake air to cool your combustion chamber too much

Why not go one step further and plumb in some liquid nitrogen Could start using superconducting hardware then which will help with fuel economy

I'm 21 with elephant (on the multicar policy) around £850 mark for me Despite being sister companies (admiral and elephant) try both because elephant was considerably less than admiral for some reason

^^ this at the end of the day

The other question is whether or not the cooler air (with higher density) makes much difference... Just did a quick back of the envelope calculation and make the difference in air density between temperatures of 30C and 10C (not sure how accurate these are, but bare with me) The difference in air density (I make out) to be 0.082kg/m^3 (just using ideal gas law) Going on Brillo's number of 150ltrs per second this means an extra 0.012kg of air per second which (again I may be wrong here with my calcs) This is 0.088 moles of oxygen... Apparently combustion (this is where the calculation is going to become quite inaccurate) releases roughly 418kJ of energy per mole of oxygen, so in 1 second we release 36784 more joules which corresponds to 36784 watts which is 49bhp! So IN THEORY if the air coming into the engine is 10 degrees C and not 30 degrees C, we should get about 50 more bhp (at 6000rpm) (although these calculations are extremely rough, this is a rough order of magnitude) I doubt the temperature of the air will vary that much, this is for ideal combustion (which we do not have) etc etc so maybe 10 more bhp at most from reducing the intake air temperatures as such But as Brillo said - ram effect is negligible, and do not expect any real noticable power increase from the cooler air, as realistically it's probably already cool enough at the point of intake Although saying that, in my mini I did used to notice it being a bit more "sprightly" on a cold morning, but when you're only dealing with 30bhp to start off with even a couple more will be noticable in a car weighing in at about 600kg

Straight pipe

Also just FYI torqen have just opened a deal on invidia exhausts, see below http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/108689-torqen-deal-alert-350z-370z-invidia-gemini-for-869-delivered/

Just get pally with your local MOT guy and it'll be fine, if you explain to him you have hfc's too (and he's a decent chap) he'll make sure the engine is warm before he gets the emissions readings and they should be passable But as GMballistic said keep hold of your old ones just in case, and it doesn't take too long to change them over each year