Stan

This is what I have done on my past 2 cars, its easier to run the wires to a fusebox and hook up to a 12v supply when the ignition is on i.e. wipers etc. Then it comes on when you turn the car on and goes off when you turn it off ðŸ˜

Is the radio standard or not? If aftermarket some have the permanent 12v and ignition 12v wires the wrong way round which may be causing a draw

If you want a double din unit for cheap with all the bells and whistles, xtrons do a massive range with tons of features

Hi from another local (just outside Norwich). I've only had mine a year and made it to 1 meet up yarmo, but I'm sure when the weather improves there'll be a few more going on.

It is Import Car Parts in West Auckland, who appear to be ok as far as trading is concerned. They sent me a 6pk1153 belt as they say the revup has a shorter belt... however it seems I need the 6pk1173 which according to them is for the DE as the DE takes a longer belt?. I gave them my reg and they came back saying it was built 12/2005 and hence that is why it needs the longer belt. Is this right or have they got it back to front and the DE takes the shorter belt? Regardless they are sending me a longer one so that is fine, I was just concerned I had something dodgy going on!

Thanks for all your input, I thought I was going mad but glad you all seem to think it is a revup as well 😀 will have a look at the engine tonight to make sure a DE hasn't snuck in there...

I'm gonna have a look at the dials when I get home, but I'm sure its got a 7k redline. I doubt that everything including interior has been replaced, including doorcards, dash and console (not to mention f&r LEDs etc) as its such an expense to do that isn't it?. Such a wierd thing, unless the belt supplier have got it wrong? Is there anywhere on the actual engine you can see if its revup or not?

Only just found this out today. I have a 56 plate with all the LED lights/ revised interior etc and it was registered 09/2006 so thought I had the revup engine. However I had my aux belts fitted yesterday and ordered revup ones that didn't fit, and after speaking to the company and giving my numberplate they have now told me my car was manufactured 12/2005 and is non-revup engine! I really thought all facelifted zeds without the HR were revup?? I'm a bit annoyed now as I went for a facelift assuming it was the revup. Guess that is my fault though for not checking properly Is this going to affect anything in future with regards to engine mods i.e. will I need to get different things such as plenum spacers?

They are 501 type (also known as W5W). Also fit the boot lights, numberplate lights and sidelights

Not worth putting on retention to maybe sell in future? I think its about £125 and lasts 10 years or so

If you want to keep it in Norfolk, you can try Omicron Engineering in Mulbarton, they do a lot of motorsport but I think they still do rebuilds and stuff. There is also a place down the road from me called PJ Davey and the website says they do high performance jap cars, but I can't tell if they are still active or not

Personally I think the price is a little high, I paid 7.5k for my '56 plate roadster with 43k miles, however yours does have gt4 wheels and is a rare colour (and the roof looks in good nick) so it has it's plus points. If you are happy at the end of the day then don't worry too much about it. You probably won't see many other late registered ones around

Welcome! I also came from a mk4 supra, although mine was a TT aerotop which made it even harder, but as said it was approaching 20 years old and was costing me too much in all areas. Now I have a zed it's a lot more reliable, cheaper and fuel efficient!

I put mine up by the A pillar as per the guide, I don't like sticking stuff on my dash 😋

I plan on totally stripping out my stereo this year and need to clarify something... I will be removing everything including the bose amp/speakers and replacing it with an aftermarket amp and speakers, all running off a new HU. Does it matter which ISO lead I get as there are bose and non-bose ones, but if I'm not sending a signal direct to the speakers via the stock wiring (it'll be RCAs to the amp then that to the speakers) should I get non-bose?

I went mishimoto, straight swap (they now have the correct plugs on to fit the oem plugs - they didn't before) and had no overheating issues since.

It is as simple but you will also need to get a signal from the nav to your 'telephone mute' on the HU to temporarily mute it so you can hear the speaker A simple guide is here and here

Why would you want to? The bose sub is useless next to a decent aftermarket sub. Plus you will loose half the power if you split the wiring (and you will also need to alter the wiring to get the correct ohmage for the amp) So basically, no point. Invest in a decent stealth box and put a good sub in there, and buy a proper amp to power it

Any basic 4 pin 12v relay, a 30amp one will be fine for running up to 360w of equipment (so hopefully your neons don't exceed that). They are about a fiver on ebay

Relay will be needed for sure, you can't draw too much power through the existing wiring that is designed just to run a couple of interior bulbs, no wonder it keeps blowing 😉. Relays are simple enough to wire up, and you can tap into the direct feed you already have coming from the battery using thicker gauge cable that can handle the current draw. Then all you need is a negative and a wire going to the interior light wiring to switch the relay on.

Ah cool, I need to do it for the first time this year, so my advice was taken from a how-to guide I have saved on my phone 😠but at least you've also helped a bit by telling me it was the panel behind

Sounds like a great idea! A nice how-to for removal would be good as well.

Wow this is great to know as I need a new hood but didn't want to travel down to chessington to get it fitted... now I can just pop up the road!

You should be able to lever up the button panel to reveal the 2 screws underneath. Use a trim remover or similar though to avoid scratching the plastics

I'd like to get a spoiler and front lip on the roadster this year, but also want a new headunit and speakers to go with my stealth sub as the standard bose is on its last legs. Decisions decisions! On a postive note it sailed through the MOT this week (although to be fair I'd only done 2k miles since the last one 😂)