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Gerry40's Achievements

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Had mine nearly 5 years now, nearly 32K on the clock and been a gem, tend to hold onto my cars as well, still got my TR4 & A35 Van which I've had for 31 & 22 years respectively. Cleaned and re-painted the underneath a couple of times and basic servicing over that time is all it's needed.
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2004 GT Length of ownership: 3 years Price paid: £7950 Spent during ownership: Very little other than a couple of oil & filter changes, gearbox oil change, blox magnetic sump plug, air filter, painted underneath inc W brace, all done myself and a lifetime battery, so about £350. Vehicle Mileage: 30,600 ( I've covered 4,000 ) Rating 10/10: Worst/Favourite Features: Absolutely love it and definitely a keeper.
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Nice one, I tend to buy and keep when it comes to certain cars.
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I use Fuchs Race Pro S 5w / 40 from Opie Oils, although this year I had to get it elsewhere because they were out of stock. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68897-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-5w-40-ester-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjw8O7bBRB0EiwAfbrTh5NFYJv5VeNY4e6OGZiU0SWL3JOgxXzEQRcDThbQXWtDF6aUU9NdWRoCJ0cQAvD_BwE
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Bodyshop Tamworth / Birmingham / Warwickshire / West Midlands
Gerry40 replied to cob1980's topic in Paint & Protection
I have used these guy's for several years on all mine and family vehicles, first job was a respray on my 1961 TR4 back in 1981. If you do call ask for Richard or Clive and tell them Gerry has put you in touch. C J Tallis Body and Paint Centre Unit Industrial Site, Nutts Lane Industrial Estate, Nutts Ln, Hinckley LE10 3EJ Phone: 01455 890500 -
I cleaned under my Zeds arches a couple of years ago and then applied Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 which neutralises any rust ready to apply a top coat of which I used two good coats of black smoothrite making sure I treated all around the lip of the rear arches. Here's the link for the Hydrate 80, they do numerous products in addition to this which may be of some interest, I also bought some zinc spray as well which I used on top of the Hydrate 80 when I did my W brace which only had surface rust before then applying the smoothrite. https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80 My car leads a fairly easy life and I cover less than 3K miles a year, I would probably apply some form of wax treatment on top if I was doing heavy mileage for added protection. I literally like the idea of just being able to clean and re-apply any topcoat every 3 years or so, I use the same treatment on all my classics and have owned my 1961 TR4 for nearly 30 years which underneath the arches is as good as the day I applied the first few coats of smoothrite. I know some people find it can chip but I have never experienced any major issues with this and it's so easy to clean and re-apply when required.
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My name shortened ( used by family & friends ) and went self employed in 2012 so near enough.
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My battery gave up the ghost three weeks ago, turned out to be the original one fitted ( 2004 ). Anyway I went for the Yuasa Lifetime Guarantee 075 Black ( 60Ah & 600A ) which came in at £157 ( £141 now ) and thanks to my lads mate's discount cost me £125, the length and width was pretty much the same as the original but not quite as high so I just had to use a small length of belting under the top bracket for the front mainly to secure firmly. Also decided to fit a CTEK comfort charger with led's to show current charge state as the car can sometimes only be used once or twice a week, this enables me to connect my CTEK charger without using the crock clips.
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I bought my 2004 Zed in October 2015 with 26k on the clock and love it to pieces, I still haven't reached 30K ... I'm self employed but work from home and do very few business miles so it has a very easy life to be fair. Can't see me ever buying another car as my daily driver and it's definitely for keeps, it joins a TR4 & A35 van which are used a lot less. If the weather's really bad in the winter I cancel any meetings or travel plans, there again I'm 54 now and my running round trying to please other people are over these days, work independently and rely on no-one else. I paid just under 8K and it's a beaut even though I say it myself.
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The best rust treatment I have found is Hydrate 80 from Bilt Hamber... http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate-80 I purchased a 2004 350Z two years ago come this October, admittedly it was immaculate low mileage ( 26K ) and to be fair there wasn't really any rust so to speak of other than surface on the W brace. I removed and wire brushed the brace and then applied 2 coats of the Hydrate 80 which converts the rust to a black protective barrier which I then painted with Smoothrite black, I also removed all the wheels and painted Hydrate 80 under the arches before again painting, I know some people don't like Smoothrite as a top coat but I do very few miles and never have any issues with it chipping, in fact I tend to clean and re-apply the top coat every 3 years or so on my classics ( TR4 & A35 Van ) and they are well protected. Admittedly if I was doing high mileage and all weathers I might be tempted to apply a more flexible top coat for added protection and again would look at Bilt Hamber for that as well.
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Nice one Pete! Well done. I've only had my Zed for 15 months but love it, I've had my 1961 TR4 for over half of my life though ( 28yrs ), and I'm nearly 54.
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Done,
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Removed mine last year and cleaned as much of the surface rust off as possible, gave it 2 coats of Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 which I must say is fantastic stuff and then 2 coats of smoothrite on top. Refitted using copper grease on all the bolts, also while doing an engine & gearbox oil change gave all the bolts holding any covers underneath the same treatment. Just a note on the Hydrate 80, I gave a rusty old antique wheel that I had from my old farmer mate a couple of coats of it at the same time, it stands out in all weathers and the surface rust that it had changed to black looks like I painted it yesterday, didn't put any top coat paint on that by the way.
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Had mine just over a year and covered 2K, the computer says 25.3 mpg over that period doing mainly shortish journey's but try and keep the least to a 10 mile run.