Rob332

As above, alex doesn't have any in at the moment 😔

Hi guys, On the lookout for a fuel tank for my DE 350z due to the current one leaking. Literally none on E Bay and looking like zmanalex doesn't have any left. Will pay for postage to West yorkshire if not local. Cheers Rob

Hi guys, My rear adjustment bolts are in need of being replaced. Is the Eibach rear alignment bolt kit a straight fit, or are any modifications required to get them to fit ? http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/parts/Eibach-Rear-Camber-and-Toe-Bolt-Kit/5.72055K I've read that with some bolt kits the holes need elongating. I just need a kit that will replace the oem bolts. Much appreciated

Faulty gauge ? Wiring fault ? Has the gauge even been checked ? Not 100% sure as can vary on certain cars, but if you unplug the connector that meets the sender, get a piece of wire and bridge the terminals on the gauge side. The gauge should go up to max then back to zero when the wire is removed. If it doesn't then you probably have a faulty gauge. can't understand why they wouldn't want to remove the new sender to do a pressure test if that and the sump is new.....unless they messed it up and just siliconed it in.

Based on 65k: CAP retail - £13,595 Glass's Guide Retail transacted - £11,780. These should give you some numbers to work with. I don't really think you would get £15k, but then again I don't know what the mileage is. Remember that the insurer will only pay the market value of your car, not what you are replacing it with. Negotiation is what it's all about but remember be prepared to back up any valuation you put on the car with ' like for like' market examples ( Auto Trader ) or Guide figures.

Hi mate, I am an insurance assessor so deal with this on a daily basis. If I were to give you some advice. Unless the car has sentimental value, if the insurer decides it's a total loss then the best option is to accept this and await the settlement offer. It really depends on the insurer as to how much they initially offer. some are more fairer than others. If you can, try and look at the industry standard guide figures. CAP, Glass's and Parkers. You want to be looking at the retail figure for CAP and the Retail transacted on Glass'. Make sure you adjust for the mileage on the car. If you take the offer to retain the salvage then they will categorise the car. This will be either an S or an N depending on if there is damage to the inner wings or chassis legs. S - structural damage N - non structural. The problem with salvage retention is that the category is input on a system call MIAFTR which will put a marker on HPI showing the salvage category that was applied. It will affect the value and puts a lot of potential buyers away should you want to sell it in the future. All the best Rob

Don't get kicked in the knackers when they call you to discuss the settlement. Glass' , CAP and Parkers are what you need to take a look at. All of these are industry standard guides. Auto Trader is not, which is what they may look at. Make sure you are looking at the retail / retail transacted figures, not mid book. In terms of fair settlement offers some insurers are better than others, but the FOS is there to help you if you find they are being unreasonable with their offer. All the best.

Was coolant/ steam escaping from the cap on the top of the radiator ? Always start with the easy fix first. A cooling system is pressurised which raises the boiling point. The cap keeps the system pressurised and if the seal has gone on the cap the system loses pressure and the coolant over heats. I would check this first. If no joy, then get the system pressure tested for leaks. If nothing found, then flush the system/ check for a blocked radiator. If you are not mechanically minded then best to take to a garage for diagnosis. All the best dude.

This sounds like an issue with the viscous couplings in your differential. It's like the diff is locking too easily, which would cause the oversteer. If everything else has been checked like arbs, droplinks, struts etc this would be the next area I would be looking at. Or it could even be the quality of the lubricating oil in it. Could be overheating/tightening up due to poor quality oil or lack of. Might be worth changing the oil if you have exhausted all other options.

I'll be looking for a set of standard 18" rays shortly. Just curious if anyone has any and at what price ? I don't need the tyres as I have just replaced mine so will just swap over. Cheers guys.

I'm not familiar with the MOT regs in Finland, but in relation to reading the fault codes, I have an import and I manage to read and clear mine. I use one of these : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WiFi-Bluetooth-ELM327-OBDII-Car-Scanner-Android-iOS-iPhone-Fault-Code-Reader-UK/302691253235?hash=item4679cdfbf3:g:9L4AAOSwk1haKLLj And then I pair it up to the Bluetooth on my phone using an Android app called car gauge pro : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugePro&hl=en_GB Works fine

Have you taken the N/S/R wheel off and checked the weather shield/ back plate ? It's a stab in the dark, but might be the weather shield catching on the brake disc. Or some corrosion catching it when the disc is turning. Could also be the brake shoes though. You could back them off/ de adjust them and see if the noise goes away. Or remove the disc and visually inspect.

good result

I pulled all the coil packs one by one to check them. I did not find anything obvious, however the fault never came back. Must have been a poor connection for me.

I wouldn't suggest it would be an easy fix if lack of oil has caused the fault. You would be looking at an overhaul or new gearbox based on the symptoms described by the op.

Could be. Or even the quality of the oil that has been put in previously.

If the slave cylinder has been replaced and there are no leaks, I would suggest the next step would be to remove the gearbox. It won't hurt having a look under the car for anything obvious first, but It appears your issue lies in the area around the clutch / flywheel where you can only really see if the gearbox is removed. If you're not mechanically minded you may wish to get a garage to look at it, as from the info you have provided it doesn't seem to be a DIY job. Its going to be approx. 4 hours labour to remove and refit the gearbox. Then depending on what the issue is maybe an extra hour. I hope you manage to get it sorted soon mate.

Hi mate, I had a similar issue to what you are experiencing. Gradually my gear changes were getting stiffer and stiffer, however I just put it down to it being common on the zed. Then the clutch pedal dropped to the floor coming back from a trip to Newcastle and there was no resistance at all. Managed to pull over and my first thought was a failed slave cylinder. Got it recovered, looked underneath and I could see that the slave cylinder push rod had slipped from the release arm. Removed the gearbox and it turned out where the clutch release arm pivots had failed and bent. replaced the release arm fitted a new slave also, and all ok. Now the gear changes are significantly smoother. The release arm had been gradually bending causing the stiffer changes until it eventually failed. As per advice above, I would check the slave first and if there is no issue there then you may have to remove the box to check further. I read later that upgraded clutches can put extra stress on the release arm and replacing the release arm or checking it when doing the clutch is often over looked, even if you are just fitting an OEM clutch.

Dealers love upselling opportunities. It is in their nature. A bit like Halfords really when I decided to take my car there for its MOT because they had a deal on. The list of advisories was endless, and very petty to say the least. It did fail on 2 rear drop links, but they wanted £260 to replace them and no free re test.....I walked out laughing. There is some really good advice given here in relation to what is actually necessary and what the dealer is upselling. You need to find yourself a reliable independent garage and stay away from the 'stealers' whom are only useful for certain diagnostics and warranty work. Keep the zed, you know you want to But if you are buying a house and running costs i.e. fuel etc. is the issue it's understandable if you need a cheaper run-around.

The belt/ belts have not been tightened correctly. Could be either of the two that is loose, but I would bet its the AC belt as it's the worst out of the two adjusters to get to. You can get to the adjuster by removing the engine cover and getting your arm down between the engine and fan shroud, but it's difficult to do it this way and you can only turn the adjuster slowly The other way is to remove the sump cover underneath the car and get to the adjuster that way. This would involve jacking the car up. If it was me I would take it back to the garage. They should know when you tell them the belt is squealing when cold that they need tightening more. Regardless of it not happening when you get the car to them.

1 - Check the battery connections, looking for security/ corrosion. Positive and earth. 2 - Check the voltage at the starter motor solenoid when staring the car. Should be 12v. If no voltage present you have a wiring / ignition switch issue. If you are getting 12v to the starter but it's not engaging then likely it is buggered. 3 - Check the clutch pedal switch. 4 - Give up and get a sparky to look at it. I get the feeing it's the battery connections though. All the best dude.

If it happens again and you cant live with it, this is a good shout. Although I would have thought the fault would still be stored. Have you tried recalibrating the throttle controller ? Checking connections ? Mines an import with a D1 fitted. Never had this problem. Could be the controller sending incorrect signals to the pedal sensor. either because it is faulty or not set up correctly. I use a Bluetooth reader from eBay and an android app called car gauge pro. Works well.

Thanks for the input guys. Think I'll get hold of a coil pack from Alex and keep hold of it. I'm going to be changing the plugs shortly , so I'll prob test the resistance on the terminals on each coil pack in turn. If I get one anomaly then I'll swap that one and see what happens. If I don't, then I'll just wait it out and see if it gets worse.

Hi guys, had a misfire the other day, VDC light, slip light and EML came on. Misfire did go away after a few minutes and the car ran fine for the rest of my journey. Got home and checked the code - P0350 Ignition coil primary/ Secondary circuit malfunction. Thinking if it was a coil pack the code would highlight which cylinder was the problem so I assumed it would be an earth fault. Went round with the multimeter and checked the resistance at all earth points and they were all fine. Thinking it was a one off I cleared the code. Now today it has come on again, same code. Does anyone know if one faulty coil pack would generate the generic P0350 code ? Or would it be a different code highlighting exactly which cylinder ? It's a pain, because as the fault is intermittent I cannot test each coil pack to determine if one is at fault as the fault goes away after 10 mins. Wondering if anyone has had this code before and if replacing the coil packs rectified the issue. ? BTW It's a 2003 DE import. Many thanks Rob

Hi mate, You are right, that has been repaired previously, and very poorly. The gap between the 1/4 panel and bumper is all over the place, plus the swage line that runs from the bottom of the rear lamp towards the fuel filler flap is also wonky. The only rectification would be to get it into a good body shop and for them to dig out the old filler and start again. Must have been a DIY job because if that was my car I would not have accepted it back form a repairer in that state. Cost wise you should be looking at between £500 - £600 depending on where you take it. Best to pay cash as you will avoid paying the VAT. Hope you get it looking perfect soon !