Mikevv

Hi guys, as some of you may know, I'm trying to make an old 5.0 litre Mercedes v8 crankshaft into a bedside lamp to match the table I've already made. And I Can always use it for giving the burglar a headache, if I can lift the damned thing in time So far I'm using an old Subaru DBA brake disc kindly donated by Clark Motorsport ( all I needed to do was pay postage ) as a base, then trying to figure out some weird bracket to mount them together, and lastly I was thinking of using some form of air filter as a lamp shade Sort of like this http://beforeitsnews...3af905172ae.jpg My only issue is I have no idea how to get a big ass air filter like that, or if the light inside will simply cook it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Or are there other unusual coloured ones? Red isn't my thing as I'm sure it will fade to pink with the light Blue or green would look cool in my opinion, but then again, take this from a guy who wears 3/4s all year round Cheers guys, let me know what you think too!!!

Hi guys, I was cleaning under my bonnet earlier, had a peak inside the air box.... my filter is about 1/4 full of crap and bent in a few places. Figured I'd buy a new one for the hell of it. Can anyone recommend any decent filters? All I can find are "Blueprint" for like £7 and something seems off about them to me. I don't really want to spend above £30 as quite frankly I just need it to filter well, not give me 150+ bhp I've seen a Pipercross branded filter, but not sure if anyone on here runs them? Let me know with alternatives if you have any, I have no idea what brand is in my car at the moment, but probably just a bog standard one knowing the guy I got it from - no bad thing, but I like to upgrade when things break

I can't, they were reluctant enough as it is. And frankly don't trust them anyway. Gonna get my brother in law to check it over at his work. Rather pay and while he's there maybe change some fluids too.

So I've got the car back, and the clutch is now heavy as hell compared to how it used to be. To me that's a good sign they've done the work they claimed to have done. However, I have now noticed my gearbox is VERY hard to pull into 2nd, and 3rd has become notchy. I now have to almost force it into 2nd, and sometimes I physically cannot pull/push hard enough to get it into gear. I left well alone after trying twice cause I believe if you have to force it in, something's wrong ( innuendo bingo anyone ? ) Would a gearbox oil change help the issue? Also my car has now developed a weird rattle under throttle. Sounds like a bolt is a bit loose and wobbling to my ears, but found it weird that it's only the moment I touch the throttle. Maybe they haven't tightened my gearbox up the my engine enough? Can't get under the car myself as I have no ramps, and trying to avoid paying a dealer just to look at it :S Any suggestions? My brother as a passenger things maybe my exhaust is wobbling/loose as they obviously had to remove that to get to the gearbox, again, hard to check without getting under it :S

You seem to have posted the same pic 4 times buddy :/

Use this as an excuse for upgrading Maybe think of getting them carbon dipped or a nice titanium knob I had mine dipped and love them to bits. But if that's not your taste, sand em down smooth and paint them very easy to do but get pry tools, not a screw driver.

I don't know for certain what the cut off is, like on the Camaro Z/28 it may have 305's on all four corners, but the main issue it has is weight. I think maybe 245's up front would help with grip, but the turn in won't be as sharp. From what I've read, 255's up front is about as big as you can go without modifying the car any ways so that helps keep the costs reasonable. Have a play on blackcircles and see which widths suit your budget best. I found sometimes a bigger size is actually cheaper for some reason. I realise this doesn't answer your question, but to be safe, I'd go with 245s up front and nice big fat 275s on the rear, should keep it nice and planted and good grip Just that means new rims I'm afraid as you can't fit the 245's from the rear to the front, different offsets and all that. Having said all this, I do see a fair few people running Rays on the track for their weight, so maybe just stick with stock set up for now and get some trick suspension going on, and of course upgrade to good rubber all round. From what I've seen and read, Michelin Pilot Super Sports are the bees knees and actually affordable IMO. I've also been told to steer clear ( yes bad pun/joke ) of the Pirelli P Zero's, so just some food for thought. Have a browse in the wheels and tyre sections, I'm sure this has been answered before, and most people won't mind helping. You just want to try avoiding the Camaro style of fat wheels to cure other underlying issues like weight or bad geometry set ups ( not saying the Z or 'Maro are particularly bad at either of those, although she is a big American girl )

Any news on when the B pillars might be coming back in stock? Gotta try and set some cash aside for them at some point

No such thing my friend!!!

How many cars do you have!?!?!?

Being 21, having a baby face, and loud car haha also as I work nights, I'm around late at night

Nice one buddy, I'm jealous of the colour of your Rays, mine need to be refurbed into a new colour like that Where abouts are you based if you don't mind me asking, sure the other members would like to know too Enjoy her! Just remember, the right foot can get you into trouble if you aren't paying attention

Thanks for the suggestion, but I might as well continue on to Horsham development, I see them around on the forum a fair bit. You ever considered them? What makes you stay at Renault, apart from they've always done it haha

They all seem to just murder battery life which I expected, but a lot of them seem to have issues with longer trips.

Nah just got a bonus this month and now have cash burning a hole Figured 350's already attract attention from the cops anyways, so they'll naturally assume I'm speeding

Hi guys, my car has been serviced and MOT'd every year in January regardless of mileage ( which is one of the many reasons I bought it ) and as I want to keep it like this, I am looking to do the same, although can be persuaded to move the dates a bit to allocate, just figured do MOT and yearly service together Can anyone recommend a good specialist near Ringwood/Bournemouth? I was thinking of using Westover Nissan in Turbary Park/Wallisdown road but I figured a good specialist would do a better job and is 95% more likely to firstly be cheaper and secondly actually give a @*!# about my car Also I have read a fair few posts saying basically just avoid main dealers due to them treating a 350/370z the same as a Juke ( good for Juke owners haha ) My limit would be around an hour of travel, as I work night shifts it's very awkward to drop the car off and get it whilst still getting an adequate amount of sleep needed for 10 hour shifts. I struggle to use the search feature on the forum, haven't quite got the hang of it yet and couldn't find a thread I had seen before that had a list of people and a map of where they are, so if you can find it just post that, and I'll start dialling them tomorrow morning Cheers for now, and apologies for the lazy post, I know it's a long way to January, but surely I can do it up to a month early, so beginning of December? Either way, I'm mental and like to have a plan in place I'll add my service history when I get home so people can suggest what I should ask/look out for , but I think it's due for a P3 service as it's a 2007 '56 model with 50k on it.

I've read numerous small time articles stating a normal speedo is not accurate, which is why you can "technically" go as much as 80 mph and not get a ticket, cause your speedo might say 80 mph, but your "true speed" is affected by as much as 10% I was wondering if it was worth buying one of those fancy boxes that reads your speed using gps, seen one on top gear years ago with the veyron top speed thing - are they legit? Either that or I was thinking maybe just use a Garmin haha - On my road trip to Wales, my gauge would say 50 mph for example, the digital readout on my Z saying 48 mph, and the satnav would read 45 and sometimes more or less, yet my needle would stay where it was. Just trying to think if its worth it or just a gimmick - I don't want a ticket, but we can all agree 70mph is too slow

We've come to terms. Turns out it's worth doing my clutch after seeing it. Doing it all in one go, as it's a good deal. Is a carbon fibre prop shaft standard on a 350z??? Was nice to hear I have one, even if I was asleep and hahaha

I bought this car about 2 months ago, give or take a couple of days, from the dealer I am now taking it back to for repairs. The name is Pontings in Banbury, Mileage was 50,500 odd, on a 2007 '56 plate. I payed £8700 after agreeing he would touch up the seat and bumper. These repairs were done to a satisfactory level. I noticed the problem around middle of August, went on a road trip through the Brecon Beacons, mainly hills etc. I got lazy and rolled down the hill sometimes with the clutch in, but not for long periods of time, just like coasting sort of thing, then my speed getting a bit higher, and releasing the clutch to use engine braking a bit here and there, but only on mild hills. I used the actual brakes for 90% of the stopping. I got back, noticed it more on the quieter roads and took my dad to listen and see what he thought, then took it to a mechanic to get it looked at the next week. I phoned the dealer up 3 days after my mechanic checked it out ( it was a saturday and phoned on tuesday ) The dealer said okay well what is the problem, I mentioned gearbox, possibly syncros but lost likely bearings. He said sure let me work out something for you with the car etc and called back 2 hours later agreeing a time to drop it off. Since then, we have spoken again on the phone ( the conversation above ) and he has said he will fix it, but he doesn't think its the bearings its my flywheel and clutch that need doing, and I disputed this, and now we are waiting to get something worked out with what I presume is a managerial person tomorrow morning. My dad left his glasses in my Z so he is going back tomorrow to get them, which is a good enough excuse to see my car too and discuss it all face to face. Apologies for the late reply, I work nights, and having been up since 6 pm Thursday evening, working a 10 hour shift and only getting home just before 4pm Friday due to all this warranty @*!#, I am dead to the world.

Hi guys, as some of you may know, I had a gearbox issue with whining gears. Some forum members diagnosed this as a faulty input shaft. I had a mechanic look it over, and he said my thrust bearing is also a bit buggered, just replace both, but clutch seems fine. I got the dealer on the phone and said I had the car for 2 months now and its getting louder and louder, can we fix it etc he said sure bring it in. 2 hour drive later, I get there, get my courtesy car and describe the issues, and leave. I get a call about an hour and a half later, claiming my gearbox is out, and the flywheel and clutch show signs of wear. I was previously told this takes 5 hours to check, so I called his bullshit and he dodged the questions I had. My clutch is fine, I checked it when I bought the car less than 1000 miles ago. ( bad for the box but only did it once ) Revved it hard to like 5k , then dumped the clutch in 6th. Bit instantly. So my clutch is 90% fine surely? Anyways. The warranty bloke claimed a clutch job and flywheel is £2500 at Nissan, again I called bullshit as I know the parts are £600 or so sold directly to me, so a dealer like him would firstly claim back VAT and get dealer prices etc. He then ( stupidly ) said "oh I won't get the parts directly from Nissan as they are so expensive" This set alarm bells off. Surely if it's a warranty fix, only OEM parts are supposed to be used? or can he source from a 3rd party ? I mainly was told the whirring noise is from the DM flywheel, so that would need replacing, unlike what forum members have said is the input shaft. It can't be flywheel or the noise would be in all gears surely, not just first? He also wants me to pay a contribution of £350 towards the parts as clutch and flywheel are wear and tear items. Surely I can tell him to **** off, and ignore my clutch and flywheel, only fixing what is needed? What is my next course of action? My dad is fuming at me for this, claiming its my own fault cause I didn't consult Nissan ( I consulted my brother in law, a Honda MASTER MECHANIC of 20+ years ) His plan is to try and catch the warranty guy unawares by driving back up there tomorrow and trying to catch him out, with my car not being worked on, and the gearbox still in the car, proving they don't know the condition of my clutch etc - seems risky to me

Sold. I'll take it PM me the invoice and we're good to go, thanks mate :3

From what I remember reading, the Satnav won't "speak" without the Bose system, but will still display instructions as usual. However don't quote me on that :/

Saw a 350 with the above plate, nice plate, and got a friendly wave Made my £84 V power stop a bit nicer hahaha wondering if you're on here?

She might not, but my bloody bank account will!!!!

Hi guys, it's the lovely pay day today I'm thinking of getting the Rays redone, probably black chrome/anthracite, whatever you wanna call it. My issue is, I used The Wheel Specialist in Ferndown a while back on the BMW, fantastic price and service. Went back to respray my engine block table, and it was a new guy. Long story short, cost a fortune, didn't follow instructions after agreeing to them, and because of that ballsed it up. He then said "I'll fix it for you for free" and ballsed that up too... So I'm avoiding them on this basis I'm afraid. Can anyone recommend anyone else that they know have a good service RECENTLY, and prices around £300 for all 4 wheels? Thanks guys The issue is also I need the car as it's my daily, are they quick? Although the parents can ferry me to work for a while if need be