RavenDW

I've had a look before, but at between £700 - £800 inlcuding the tablet it's quite a price! But it does look pretty swish.

I posted the thread and then within a minute found a US forum where someone else asked the same question ('03 into an '07) and was told no. C'est la vie.

I'm sure the answer to this has been posted, but since people usually want to do it in the other direction I'm struggling to find it. I was wondering if the cubby area/radio surround trim from a pre-facelift is a direct swap. I know the lower section surrounding the gear shifter and has the AC controls is different, but I only want to change the 'top half' that goes from the radio to the centre console gauges. I've got an '07 facelift (not HR) with the built in satnav, which at this point is many years out of date in terms of map updates. I'd rather have a cubby to put things in or mount my phone/tablet/ whatever. I'm keeping an eye on eBay/breakers and if a pre-face lift centre console/radio surround fits and comes up then I might buy it.

Finally got around to replacing my brace. Thanks again to Mick for getting this made. I've hung onto my plastic covers to maybe refit them later, but one of the old brackets broke off and all the bolts snapped. I've attached shots of the finished job, There's also a couple photos of the old brace in very sorry state.

Quick bit of internetting says six M8 bolts and four M10 bolts. Not sure on length though. Edit: The guy in this video is fitting an aftermarket brace and using 30mm bolts

Looks good, Mick. 👍 You've also reminded me I need to make a second 'ramp'. Time to go hunting for more scrap wood.

Update: I'm in. Was checking I still had access to a lift to have the Zed in the air to do the job.

Great. I'll give a definite yay/nay soon. Hopefully we can get up to the 10.

Maybe a daft question, but would there be a downside to having one of these if you have a stock exhaust? I definitely need a new W brace and obviously I'd rather pay £50 than £150 as long as there won't be any issues with a stock setup.

Morning all. When turning my wheel full lock right, the cruise SET light flashes and prevents cruise control from functioning. Turning the ignition off and on solves this until I again turn the wheel full lock right. I've got a video below showing that it doesn't happen when going full lock left. As far as I can tell I am retaining all other steering controls. (The airbag light also started flashing this morning on my way to work, but I haven't had chance to do the reset and check connections yet) (apologies for my dodgy camera skills) I had to replace the combination switch (also comes up as a clock spring when you Google) late last year (different cruise control issue) and it has been functioning fine since. My assumption is that it may simply be a loose connection, but that it's only happening when turning the wheel all the way has me concerned that the the ribbon cable is being damaged. I took time to make sure the turning of the spring was even from left to right before I fitted it, but of course it's possible I made a mistake. Any info or advice would be appreciated...as well as another( 😅) replacement clock spring or spiral cable should it come to that.

If you haven't sorted this yet, try getting a reel of hose clamp (the same stuff as jubilee clips) to wrap around the cats. Mine were rattling and now they're strapped up the problem is solved. That is unless you want to change the cats. With these, any known issues with setting off the O2 sensors? I know some necessitate spacers or remaps to avoid the fault.

This looks to be pretty common after some searching around. I found people reporting the problem from back when the 350z was first sold. I haven't, however, been able to find definitive "it's this, do this" responses. Anyway, neither my passenger or driver's side windows are dropping a sufficient amount when opening the door. The result of this is that when the door is shut the window isn't sealing properly. I can physically push the window down a couple of centimetres when the door is open and when shutting it returns as it should. I can't imagine this is much good for the mechanism and it's a pain. The passenger side moves slightly more, but the driver's window barely budges a couple of millimetres. Also, when bringing the window up while the door is open is goes the full length of its travel rather than stopping before it hits the 'top', which makes me think that some sort of limiter isn't behaving the way it should (but I have no idea). I've seen solutions ranging from reset procedures, changing the motor, finding a wiring fault or cleaning the guides inside the door. I don't think the motor is on its way out as the window goes up and down quite readily. Before I go down the path of stripping the door I'd appreciate a bit of insight if people have it. I found a great teardown SteveW made for the forum (which I'll attach), but I'd like an idea of what extent I need to go before taking things apart unnecessarily. Window Guide.pdf

Oh I'm glad you posted this. I'm potentially having parts of the door off soon so I was going to (in vain, apparently) be checking this light.

So I wasn't the only one. What's annoying is that fitting them the wrong way caused the boot to pop quite nicely and would clear the catch by a good margin. Now they're the right way I get issues with it not popping properly (yes I've done the penny trick). Oh well.

Just the thread I was looking for! Thanks for the review. I'll be in the market for some new rubber soon. I had to scrimp a bit when I first got the car and had some new tyres, but I've very much been looking forward to replacing the ditch-finders. Thanks again. P.S. I don't suppose anybody has experience with Michelin's Primacy 4s?