Hodaka

Just FYI so that you can adjust price accordingly, Torqen sells these for £39, so you'll probably need to lower the price to get any interest And just for anyone potentially interested, I installed once of these recently and as Shinjuku says, it makes it much easier to heel toe. Love mine GLWS

Ahhh zeditis claims yet another victim... Photobucket is a very popular choice on here in terms of posting images. Guide here

Why you so mean! Although I must admit, I do aspire to be like him one day

I'm a tad limited on time right now as I'm in the middle of moving house , so I couldn't do vents but here it is in black: Hope it helps!

It's one of those insurance scams isn't it? There's so many videos of them on YouTube - quite funny to watch as obviously the ones you can see have a dash cam, so it's not really going to work anyway. Turns out the one in the OP's video is in . Here's a better quality version from the original channel.

Omg, my sentiments exactly! Nice to know I'm not the only one!

My wife is a psychologist and does exactly the same. My self-esteem is at an all-time low

I don't have my reading glasses handy, mind making it bigger? *Edit* Now you've fixed it I just look like an idiot

Totally agree. Did a rough edit to see what it looks like with the film removed:

The only thing I really dislike is the headlight film. The bumper isn't to my taste either, but as aesthetics is so subjective, it would have to be pretty extreme for me to consider a car ruined. Also saying it that bluntly to someone who is passionate about their car is pretty harsh Haha, made me chuckle

Hey Chris. Just wanted to check you've still got me down on the waiting list for pillar covers? If not, please could you make sure I'm on there?

Was very curious so I tried to find it. 1. Used the forum search, couldn't find. 2. Googled it, couldn't find. 3. Tried a more specific Google, i.e. 'site:350z-uk.com "parking adventures"' found it! Feeling proud of myself For anyone else who wants to check it out, link below. Looks like an entertaining read http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/20606-bm-and-his-parking-adventures/

Lovely shine

Just a quick one, the replacement unit came today. It was extremely well packaged - the unit was in a bubble wrap bag, which was then rolled in more bubble wrap, and finally surrounded with layers and layers of some foamy padding. I have no idea how they managed to fit it all in the box. Will report back in once I've had a chance to fit the unit. I'm in the process of moving into my first house right now, so pretty busy!!

Got it, thanks for the pro tips! I have MPSS on all corners so I can mark that off the check list! Yeah, I totally agree. Super pleased with them £5 or so + 10 mins of work - would definitely recommend. Just make sure you get a friend to help as holding the bumper up while trying to drill the holes wouldn't be fun I'd imagine!

Thanks for the link! I'm hoping it's in my boot (I have a ton of stuff in there) but if not, that thread will definitely help!

Yeah pretty much exactly the same as me. Aha... That's probably where it is then as I left the stickers in the box for now. Hopefully I haven't lost the box!

No problem at all! Other than the wiring harness, it's very easy Just FYI, I think I read somewhere that one person didn't even bother taking the tunnel off. He put the gaiter on from the top, and stuffed it into the centre tunnel using a flathead screwdriver. Didn't work for me though, so I did it via the Buster's method. I guess I better take another look at my Nismo knob box. Maybe it was in there and I just missed it.

Aha! Makes sense! I totally agree - I absolutely hate it too. I just couldn't get my phone to prop up against the wall on it's side so gave up.

Awesome colour, and lovely bit of beading I'm not sure if it's the correct way to do it, but I did it by removing the centre tunnel (is that what it's called? The big price of plastic running between the 2 seats). After you remove the centre tunnel, I placed the gaiter over the handbrake and put the centre tunnel back. Buster's explanation of how to take off the centre tunnel. Make sure you take a look at post #8 just below as well, as he points out 3/5 screws. Warning - the wire harness underneath is an absolute PITA to remove... P.S. I have the same gaiters. Don't have a gear knob finisher though.

No problem at all Personally, I'm liking the hood & grills in black. I agree the skirts / bumper is a bit too much in combination with the black hood.

Cheers man. Yeah I'm really enjoying the DIY & learning process. It's really satisfying seeing the end result after putting in the effort. There's a lot more I want to learn! Cool, I'll check out your thread. Thanks guys! Still a lot to learn / do, but definitely slowly getting there Loving this way of wiring up LEDs. I have done things in the past and used a separate wire for each one and it took forever!! Good effort. Don't let Ekona see this Thanks and yeah, I decided to put them in parallel as I didn't want loads of cables running everywhere. Plus I wanted to wire in the LEDs in parallel, just in case one of the LEDs failed. Also about Ekona, how come? Should I be scared?

Nice pic Sure, here's some options. I tried the lip with 2 tone (red & black) as well, but I'm not familiar with that lip, so wasn't entirely sure if what I did was correct. Anyway, hopefully these help! Just hood & eyelids Hood, eyelids and grill Hood, eyelids, grill and lip (Personally, I'm not fan of painting entire lip) Hood, eyelids, grill, lip and sideskirt Hood, eyelids, grill and part of lip (guesswork) Hood, eyelids, grill, part of lip and sideskirt

Phew... nearly there in terms of catch up. I'm so bad at writing so it's been a bit of a struggle! A few months after installing my DIY DRL, the LEDs started failing, as you can see below (it's meant to have 5 LEDs on each side): I believe the failure was due to the fact I didn't know that the battery voltage fluctuates, and used resistors that have too low a resistance. Anyhow, a week ago I finally removed the reflectors. By this time, it was down to 1/5 on one side, and 2/5 on the other. I even managed to take it off without anyone's else! Definitely learning, so proud of myself Here's what the reflectors looked like after removal. I started by cutting away the silicon and old components. I noticed that there was a little bit of water getting in where the wires came out of the reflectors. Makes sense really, as the silicon hadn't completely sealed this off. My vision for "version 2" of the DRL was to try and get the entire reflector to glow evenly so I bought some wide-angle LEDs. I also decided to add more of them, as I thought it wouldn't be as bright as the previous LEDs. I increased the number of LEDs per bumper from 5 to 11. I therefore had to mark where the other 6 LEDs would go. I didn't have a ruler I could curve, so I decided to use a piece of wire. Very "accurate" With the half-way points marked up, I then used another piece of wire to try and keep it equidistant from the front edge of the reflector: Which then allowed me to drill the pilot holes: Which in turn allowed me to drill the 5mm holes. Beware, the plastic is very soft so you need to be really careful: Next up, I sorted the power supply. I know there's a lot of electrically minded people on here (cs2000, flyboy etc...) so they'll probably tell me otherwise but after some research, I found that you can use a DC/DC converter to stabilise the voltage / current. I found one on Amazon that looked ok, at least to me (everything I know is from researching, so don't hold me to it!). Here's a link in case anyone's interested. So I got one of those, some spacers/screws and a waterproof case to put it in. I firstly drilled some holes for the wires, and marked what they are with permanent ink: I then used a piece of paper to mark up the distance between the screws: Then placed the paper on the back of the box with the DC/DC converter on top. I aligned the paper with the DC/DC converter, and then aligned the DC/DC converter so it sat roughly in the middle of the box in line with the wires (the below picture is before I aligned it). Once I was happy, I taped down the piece of paper and drilled the 4 holes: Now that the holes were drilled, I stripped the wires: And secured them to the converter. I also screwed the converter to the box: Now back to the reflectors. I had read that using sandpaper on the LEDs can help it diffuse, so I decided to give that a go: Then stuck them into the reflectors. I used a bit of super glue to stop them from falling out, as some of them were a bit loose: I then prepared the reflector wires: And stuck the LEDs through them: A bit of soldering later, it was all connected together. You may have noticed I didn't add resistors this time, which is because I could set the current output from the DC/DC converter. In the specs it said the optimum current for each LED was 20mA. As there's 22 of them in parallel, I needed a total of 440mA from the converter. It's my understanding (please correct me if I'm wrong!) that as long as I don't have more than 440mA coming from the converter, I wouldn't need any resistors. Bullet connectors were fitted to all the wires, and I tested it using 2x 9v batteries in series. The voltage and currents were set on the converter using a multimeter. I decided to set the current slightly lower than the 440mA I mentioned above, just to be on the safe side. I believe in the end, I set it to around 380mA. Here's what I ended up with, prior to covering it with silicon: The day after once the silicon had been added / dried: Annnd finally fitted them back in. Here's a shot of the sidelights + reflectors on (headlights off): I have no idea of how correct my thought process behind the circuitry is. Hopefully it'll last this time, but if not, no biggie. For now, I'm glad I have a full set of LEDs.

During my daily exploration of the forums, I noticed that GeorgeW was selling a pair of 25mm Torqen S spacers, which I managed to get for £55 delivered. These had only been test fitted, so were pretty much brand new: I contacted Adrian@Torqen and ordered myself a pair of 20mm for the front as well. Never having taken the wheels off myself, these sat in my boot for some time. A little while later, Tuck posted about a group buy for rear LED indicator/fog/indicator lights. I loved the look of these, so contacted Car Lab to get myself a smoked pair for £103 delivered. About 2 weeks later (well within their delivery estimate) these arrived: The quality looked good! Annnnd again, into my boot they went. Once again, I had to enlist my friend to help out! After washing the car, he started by fitting the spacers: Before After And then started work on fitting the LED lights, using a wooden pole to support the tailgate as my struts are a bit weak (one thing I plan to replace in the near future). Soldering in some wires for the running/brake lights Comparison shot While we were at it, we also carried out a bumper tuck We also tinted the brake lights very slightly. I don't have the LED brake lights yet, so didn't want to go too dark for safety reasons. Before/after comparison (tinted brake lights, LED reverse/indicator/fog lights & bumper tuck) Lights functionality Another close up (taken a couple of weeks later, when I washed it) It was a pretty productive day! Notes: LED light fitting guide Bumper tuck guide - Very easy to do, but definitely helpful to have a second pair of hands. I've heard that some people have an alternative approach using cable ties as well Fog light - The way I wired it above has running / brake lights. This means that I currently don't have fog lights. I will be rectifying this shortly, but tapping the brighter red to fog lights rather than the brake light. Another suggestion is to use diodes to combine that light for brake / fog lights, but apparently technically that's not legal. Worth taking a look and deciding what you personally want to do. LED light leak - A short while after I installed the LED lights, it rained a lot and I noticed that the passenger side light was filling with water. It still works, but it's obviously not ideal. As Car Lab is based in Taiwan, I expected a troublesome process of getting it sorted. However after a few emails back and forth, they agreed to send me a replacement unit. It was all sorted in a few days, and they were extremely helpful. Only tiny annoyance is I have to wait the 2-3 weeks for it to be delivered, but that can't really be helped.