GreenLandy

Pm'd

I've had 3 exhausts on the car so far, currently got the scorpion and it is just right for me. Best to look around for one on the for sale section - should pick it up for around £200

Just go for the standard exedy clutch and LUK flywheel - will be just short of £600 - cheapest when I looked 6 months ago was carparts4less on ebay (Eurocarparts sister company)

I have similar issues, my solutions are: 1) drill it out and replace with a suitable rivnut. 2) rivet a suitable piece of plastic/metal across the front, to replace the broken bit. 3) can't remember - don't remember it being an issue tbh

I've not heard of H+B before - be worth a google. Bilstein have a good rep in suspension, so probably not a bad shout. Q-Drive are one of the eurocarparts-style suppliers and are good if you like redoing the job several times as they're usually completely naff.

I've got a custom exhaust that came with the car - all stainless and is loud. Sounds lovely, but was a bit loud for me on trackdays. It's manifold back - has custom decats, y pipe, small resonator and small backbox. The flexis in the y pipe could do with replacing - or getting rid of (ie weld in a bit of straight pipe instead), but guess that depends on how low your car is. There is a repair on one of the flanges too I think. Let me know if you're at all interested and I'll try and get some pics and more details.

Yeah I'd definitely get something like that - I got one from Amazon ad have used it loads of times, very useful.

Better to sort it now and get it somewhere known to be good than have months of wrangling and hassle. Of course it may be fine, but approved usually means they've given the insurer the cheapest price and will bodge it out as quickly and cheaply as possible.

Mine did this not too long after I bought it. Never thought anything more of it until about 6 motnhs later it did it a couple of times on the way home from work - plugged it in and it was the camshaft sensor - so worth plugging it in and see if any codes are being shown

One at the back of the boot, one at the front - half wedged under the strut bar and half sat on the centre bulkhead bit. Then moved the passenger seat forward, put another wheel behind that, and then the last on in the front footwell.

That's not necessarily representative of a diesel - the wife's new mini easily gets 70mpg and that's with non-eco driving. And no tossing hybrid rubbish in the way either.

I got 4 wheels in the 350 without any need for extended boots - and with the awful strut bar in the way. Looks like a good idea though, hadn't though about redesigning the boot

Would be rude not to get a spare in at that price! Can you PM me the necessaries?

I think in my 9 years or so of owning vehicles, I have only put one into a garage twice (apart from tyres and MOTs) - once was fitting a proper vegetable oil system to the land rover as the insurance companies insisted it had a "proper" install and the other was the clutch on the 350 as I needed it done quickly. I would only go to a garage with a personal recommendation as quite frankly I don't trust them given the many horror stories you hear about. If I have done it I know what's been done and that it hasn't been bodged. I also find it highly satisfying to fix something and learn more about a car. Although having said that I have no immediate desire to go this far with the 350:

Not to mention it has probably been ragged from cold.

Saw one go past the other day, and before I realised what it was my thoughts were trying to work out what car Barry had ruined, it looks that bad.

And to be fair it's only the really really old Asbestos that's properly dangerous. The (relatively) newer stuff is Crysotile and the fibres are curly and much more likely to get caught in your nose etc, than go down into your lungs. Obviously not something you want to try out either way mind

My arches are bubbling a bit, meh. when I get round to it I'll get them sorted, but it's only cosmetic at the moment. BTW, never use hammerite, it comes off in sheets about 4 days after you paint it in.

Unless, as mentioned, the balljoint is knackered, or the arm is seriously worn, then complete replacement is totally unnecessary. 2 genuine bushes are ~£75. A garage near me has apparently perfected the job to 40 mins so I'd expect it all in for around £120. 40 mins is certainly better than the near 40 hours it took me last weekend due to horrendous amounts of corrosion holding the damn thing on.

Thinking about i, and looking at some proper diagrams, I think it's the rack that has the play in it. Is there any adjustment or recon options on these?

Not sure what sound you're refering to: I felt the best part of an inch of play between the main part of the rack and the inner tie rod

Having just changed the compression arm bushes, I gave the rest of the front suspension a once over. The offside inner tie rod has got a noticeable amount of play in it. Is this instant replacement or is there any adjustment in these things?

Just get yourself an OBDII reader - they're less than £20 on amazon. This will tell you what is wrong.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/wires/ap/article-3162818/Nissan-recalls-270K-vehicles-worldwide-fix-start-buttons.html

Well if it's a recall it's not going to be just the odd one going wrong?