Selah83

Yeah i'm fairly certain the flywheel installation was done correctly, as i know we had to take out as wasn't aligned correctly the first time. However after spending the night in the workshop I re-checked all the sparks.. the ECU is fine, the TB opens and closes - the CEL is on but no codes.. Still backfires, pops and runs very very very rough with foot on gas still.. Definitely feels like a bank of sparks/coils/injectors isn't working... I don't think the chain has been timed up with the cam properly.. I heard highly modified engines even 2mm out will cause issues? Anyway! i'm unfortunately now looking at other options for the bitch as i'm out of time, money & patience and the wife has started with some nice ultimatums too thanks again for all the help

Doesn't Rev at all - depressing the accelerated keeps engine running at like 600 / 800 rpm.. however checked the throttle body and it is opening when pedal depressed so looking unlikey it's that causing the issue! Checked all the coil wiring and there all in the right place, also sounds as if its mis-firing when it is running.. .. no closer it seems to getting the bitch back on the road :/

Thanks Shark, I'm back in garage on Saturday so going to check all the sparks and coils again, because I've been messing around with the CPS on bank one I think I may have touched or moved something important. The other thing I wanted to ask about is the Throttle body, i've had it off the car a few times, is it possible that's caputt? and the value is stuck shut?? thanks again n.b not sure what the green and blue wires connect to! however I know that Keyser installed interior green leds and and wiring for underbody lighting too, so maybe for them?

Hey Quick update (haven't had chance to put petrol in yet) however we've inspected the coils and sparks under start-up, and it seems as if the coils/sparks have a mind of their own, there is no sequence to spark they just go off when the feel like it :/ erratic to say the least Here's some pics of the wiring around the ECU - I'm not good with electronics so for me this is like looking into the abyss And this is what i've been reduced too - looking at it on a ram, the same place its been for the last 4 months :/

Yeah, a friend of mine (where my car is currently held up) has spoken to Keyser.. Problem is, the ECU is literally hardwired, so taking the ECU off would mean i'd need a new one.. What i really need to know is if the ECU is actually the issue, and how would I know if it's fried? or if most of the problem's we are having are down to electronics/sparks/coils/injectors under the hood. Annoying is a word i'm using a lot and I don't wanna give up on it just yet. This whole thing started with a CPS.. and was so easy to replace haha When bought the car, i had a full head of brown hair, I now have half a head of grey Ah well, i'm sure we'll find the issue, but any other input is most welcome!

Not a bad idea, I last put petrol in it in March.. i'll do that anyway as there isn't really that much in! - Jerry Can ahoy!!

We think it's the passenger side (bank 1?) that's not firing, hopefully going to get in their and check all the wires and plugs make sure we didn't leave anything off when fitting the CPS back their. Any other ideas would be most helpful.. been off the road 6 months, starting to get grumpy with it!

There's a lot of wires in their 😆 may take a while to find a bad earth ðŸ˜

doesn't fire at all n.b cranks still.. but definitely no spark

Hello a few months ago I posted a help thread about Cam position sensors as my 350z decided to break bank 1.. the update since then.. in a nutshell I replaced both CPS, Crank Sensor.. no luck Timing chain was VERY stretched, replaced.. no luck My Carbonetics Flywheel was damaged, missing teeth, replaced, no luck so now the car cranks, fires (as long as foot is on the gas) and if held on gas actually runs, however remove the gas.. it dies. (doesn't fire everytime) the 350 has had new sparks too.. it seems as if the spark is erratic and when shes running only one side of the exhaust gets hot. Not sure what the next step is, the ECU isn't throwing up any more codes however she has got a piggyback Haltech on board. Any ideas???? cheers folks

I thought she was running rich! and i think now i understand why!.. she really didn't feel that down on power however moving from a 240bhp Supra to a 350z i was gonna notice some difference

Well to be honest Keyser, when I finally got it up on my mates lift there were a few things i was umming and arrring in about- the supercharger down pipe wasn't connected to the pipe that connects to the engine also the rad fans weren't connected!! :/ - anyway has been a good chance to get under there, clean and look around, try and get to know her a little!! so far her name-sakes has been true but maybe i can tame her a little There is one thing I wanted to ask about whilst on the subject - obviously she's had a new starter motor, however placement of the starter is within 3mm of the manifold (are they legal btw keyser?? lol) is there anyway to shield the starter from the manifold or any ideas about how to go about reducing the amount of heat the starter is gonna be exposed too?

and bought!! will take pics of the repair and let you know how it goes - excited now might be able to do another 125 miles before something else falls off!! haha

Just before I do so - need to check if this is right... don't want any boo boo's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Nissan-Altima-Maxima-350Z-Murano-Infiniti-VQ35DE-V6-DOHC-Timing-Chain-Kit-/360880614113?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5406292ae1#shpCntId And again Alex, Thank you

Thank you Alex - Will do

Hey Finally managed to take that picture of the tensioner!

Aye yeah sorry, I could clearly see a chain haha not a belt - well I could see one big ASS chain and 2 smaller chains top left and right.. I'll get a pic in the morning as all locked up in garage now. Cheers

Ok so an update!!! So i have the front of the engine off and in bits yay I have replaced crack sensor and cam sensors.... Now here is the fantasic bit of news.... looking at the timing belt tensioner, its at 22mm.... well surely that can't be good!! Next step any advice? thanks

Job for the weekend then! Cheers Alex

Given one by Keyser, the other from Flea-bay - however (that one) I only replaced because I was replacing the faulty one under the intake! Worth putting the old bank 1 back in? to see if that makes a difference?

wouldn't the crank sensor also throw a code?

I think the fuel pump is ok, and can definitely smell Fuel

Hey all, thought i'd bring this one to the masses, as to see if i can't get few ideas about this issue I have.. Ok Before Christmas was driving along admiring myself in windows when the car coughed, backfired and stalled.. restarted 10mins later with the CEL light on. Christmas eve drove to in-laws and both traction and slip lights came on adding to the already on CEL light. Tried to start car with no joy just cranking. Early new year had AA out to tell me I had code P0340 - So I replaced both CPS's tried to turn over - again just cracking, then battery died went flat. Next day replaced battery tried to start car, had it running for 2 mins (rough idle) before lots of popping (presume backfire) and stalling, tried restarting a few more times then fried starter motor :/ replaced starter motor and now back in the same position as before - cranks but no start! any ideas??? Cheers

oooh pricey that, I think Keyser is rescuing me here haha!! thats; love for ya - and Bank 2, cools (persume passenger side) thanks JP

lol I think i better do both sides - Diagnostics didnt tell me which one only P0340