Pritchard

''Starting from the ground-up'' has just taken a new meaning!

Theres a Sticky that has all your answers about spacers, rays, and rubbing (*lack of rubbing).

Sold Please lock. thanks

Sold. please lock. thanks all, sorry if i havent replied to any PMs, i got a dozen! :-0

Sold, pending payment.

offers by PM please guys. sorry bradders. i didnt have time to have them sitting for sale for months, hence, priced to sell give it a few weeks and people will forget about these awesome wheels and the silly pirce

Guys, i have had lots of PMs for enquiries. I am open to offers but at the moment the requests (except for 1) involve breaking the set. if you look at the prices of the Rays on ebay for example, many are around £150 a corner. you could take the whole set off me and sell on the 'spare' ones that you dont want. If you compare with ebay you are almost getting a buy2, get 2 free deal I need the wheels gone as a set im afraid. cheers

So it's just not as responsive as it can be pedal wise? Sorry for such simple questions, but I never had to deal with zeds, only now for a few months of owning it Check for posts made by Abbey motorsports. Mark has made mention many times abou thow it works. a Z doesnt have 276bhp in 4>6th gear, bit 220-bhp(-20%) in 1>3rd :lol: I had a VVC engine previously that had the same 'delay' built into the factory tune. there was a great graph for it, i'll see if i can dig it out. think of it this way: Our throttle is drive-by-wire, not cable. Slam your foot to the floor from 0% open throttle (closed) to 100% open throttle (Fully Open) might take 0.3secs. however the ECU actually controlls throttle position, based on the ecu tune, load, position of foot etc. in that same foot movement, the ECU might reach Fully Open in 0.4secs The numbers are made up, just to create an example. but the throttle will be opened 100%.(if it wasnt, you wouldnt make maximum power) it just takes longer to open *IN COMPARISION* to your foot strike.

Instead of translating 'Restricted' into ''less Power'', translate it to 'higher Latency' , or 'Lag Time' The power to the road does not change.

Sold, pending payment. :

Purchased from Tarmac Sportz. Checked the website but couldnt see a brand? I am not aware of a brand being stamped on them either? sorry. Unless anyone else can shed light, i'm afraid i dont know.

Purchased around.... well 5 weeks ago. They are about £70 per axle new. i got my new alloys sooner than expected, so these are no longer needed. 4x spacers. 20mm front, 25mm rear. Comes with the nuts that were originally supplied (in pictures, on thread with a few turns). Literally unbolt your current (Rays?) alloys, bolt these to your hubs, and bolt the alloys to these. - Jack, axle stands and wheel brace not included for install lol. £100 delivered. Open to offers.

Full set of Rays. 2 are what i can only describe as immaculate. Not a mark. 1 has a little paint flake in the stud entry-hole where its been caught with a wheel brace. 1 has a little curbing on the outer rim, but the spokes are not damaged at all. Pics below. However as you can see from the pics the scuff i've described isnt clearly visible. They ALL come with tyres, but i am selling these as alloys... that ''also come with'' tyres Rear tyres have about 2mm tread, front about 3mm. So not calculated in my asking price as lets be honest, you will need new rubber. I can ship (will use wheelcourier.co.uk or similar), Space is required in my garage. These need to go. £320 delivered. (collection preferred) I am open to offers. Worst I can do is say no.

Electric 'show n go' number plates i need one.

I havent done it. But opinions are based on other peoples comments and findings. but check out the US forums for specific drag times, they are mad for it. but, make it faster for free - remove anything that your car doesnt need to carry for a drag race. speakers, seats, the lot. i did some research a while ago, and my number may be wrong. but im sure fully stripped Z's still weigh 1400kg on the weighbridge. If you want to tune, its all about wallet size. because its a 6 cylinder car, costs for things like cams, pistons, headwork etc, add 50% on top of your usual in-line 4 tuning costs. The guys here leave N/A and go boost for hp/£ thats a very specific 0-60 time your looking at. got a friend your trying to beat?

well bugga me i wasnt kidding - lost the back end on a roundabout tonight during 'casual' racing line with minimal throttle. caught me by complete surprise as i wasnt racing around, and didnt expect traction to break. i wouldve taken a Laguna at a faster speed for christ sake. I know the above probably reads really vague and loosely based on facts... - we all know what we are comfortable with right? and then we have a different level for what we believe the car is comfortable with. well i was at speed and an angle of attack that were shallow, on a roundabout that i know. I would have taken (and have taken) it faster in the pouring rain without fear. caught it before it spun, but the heart attack wasnt enjoyable. completely unexpected. these are coming off !!

these were on a special offer with the wheels. i knew why when they arrived - they were filthy. had obviously been fitted some time ago and never sold, or a customer cancelled (they were brand new, still had the rubber niblets). so i cant moan at the deal i got. but i think the quicker i wear these out the better. just thought i twas worth a notation in case anyone else uses the search button in the future for these ones...

Thought i'd put on a quick review. Speaking about the rears only at the moment, i've gone from a 245/45/18 with a few mm of tread left. a summer tyre. and they were budgets - MrTyrePro or something. I didnt have any worries with grip on those. i knew what they could do, and i trusted them. having now done a couple of hundred miles on my new rubber, i am getting more and more nervous of them. 275/35/19 NANKANG, NS-20's They are quite a bit wider, and should really have more contact with the road. however, when pulling out from a junctions my traction control keeps kicking in, with what is really a controlled start. i've turned off my TC just in case it was a rotational issue with the new wheels and was incorrectly kicking in but alas, wheelspin everywhere! Surfice to say i havent yet dared to take a corner! so this is as far as the review goes with the fronts. I know its winter and the surface quality and tarmac temps are not ideal. but down here in the south the air temps have been well above freezing. yet it feels like im driving in the wet all the time. i kind of want my bald budget 18's back on, i felt safe with those! tyre pressures are correct. tracking / camber hasnt yet been re-done since wheel fitment but they arnt at right angles! Anyone else used this rubber? Found a few hits on Nankangs but not on the NS-20 flavour. Pritchard

:tumbleweed:

I'm Ready

********* 3 Month Sprint is Complete ********* Only missed it by 1 week. Which is not an issue. So much has been achieved in 3 months, its unreal. To think Xmas was in the middle of it too. All ready to represent the 350z-uk forums at some meets, and to thoroughly enjoy myself. The aim of this project: To steer away from the engine (which is my modding background) and to this time go for a medium-weight showcar. not aiming for a magazine cover car, but a car that can turn up to shows and turn heads. Full and complete spec of what has been carried out since ownership from Halloween 2014. I give you... The Pumpkin Performance Mods - 2006 Airbox - 5/16 plenum spacer - Cobra HFCs - Toyo Y-pipe - Cobra Non-resonated catback - Lightweight singlemass flywheel - UpRev ECU tune -Tuned for 99ron - Current Power: 272hp@hubs, 307hp@fly Engine Bay Visuals - Skull Green Flame Dipped Parts - Dipped Engine cover - Dipped quarterguards - Dipped strutbrace feet - Dipped Intake tubing - Sprayed ‘Z’ Core strut brace - Sprayed Slam Panel - Sprayed Battery and Fluid covers Interior & ICE - Full Pioneer system. - Pioneer iPod Touchscreen Double-Din Headunit - Custom ‘Z’ Background on the Headunit - 350w of speaks in the front - 240 watts in the rear - 1600watt Pioneer amp - 1200watt Pioneer Sub - Colour coded rear strut cover - Ice-blue LED interior lights - Carpeted boot divider Exterior Mods - Do-Luck front bumper - Do-Luck side skirts - INGS+ Rear bumper, with black diffuser - JDM Celica rear spoiler - Short 4†stubby aerial - 20mm/25mm spacers fitted - Carbon Fiber B-pillars - Dark Tint all rear 3 windows. - LED side lights (Not DLRs) - 19†10-Spoke Bola ZZR alloys - 245/35/19 and 275/35/19 NANKANG rubber Some before and after pictures too. Back - to - back And now for some engine bay goodness _______________- Its been a great 3 months. Looking forward to getting down to plenty of meets to see faces and other Z projects. Special Thanks Ricey @ rEvolve Automotive (forum trader) - For the dipping and spraying of the engine bay Taras @ RT-Performance (forum trader) - For the professional install of the bodykit and making her beautiful Chris @ Tarmac Sportz (forum trader) - For supplying the bodykit, and other nik naks Mitz @ Cougar Store (forum trader) - for my exhaust goodies Mark @ Abbey Motosport (forum trader) - for the tuning and getting me clear of 300bhp I think its clear that the abilities of our traders is second to none! What a great pool of skills to dip into. Members These are the special mentions. Many more that could make the list! So Thank You All. Veeg33 - For designing my custom headunit background oldbonesmcgee - For helping me find ''those wheels'' Payco - for always finding something else that needs changing Humpy - For being the person who really sold me the bodykit with his pictures. DDay - For sharing a pint with me in the first week of ownership, and not sayin out loud that i was bluffing Androo - A member no longer active, but good friend of mine. Thanks to him me and the missus got introduced to the Z world. I may continue to tinking here and there, but for now, Project Complete. But in true Marvel Cinematic Universe style, there has to be an Easter Egg after the credits...... .... ....Keep your eyes peeled for Phase 2. Which may involve something like this: Thanks guys. Pritchard

i saw these and thought 'ah, Citroen BX' but then i googled and it wasnt. ive seen this design on a wheel trim from the 90's im sure. found these pug ones with a quick search that have a resemblance. i am a big fan of Vossens, but these... no. not for me. lol - i vote marmite

Page 7 is where its at GMB

i have an idea.... i think i have sceme that would work. also for anyone curious about the number plate: '' 60. Fixing of registration plate (1) (a) Where a vehicle has been so designed that a space has been provided for the fixing of a registration plate, the plate shall be fixed in the space so provided. ( Where a space is not provided the plate shall be fixed in the manner specified in paragraph (2). (2) Subject to paragraph (3), a registration plate shall be fixed vertically or, where that is not reasonably practicable, in a position as close to the vertical as is reasonably practical at the front and rear of every motor vehicle in such manner that the characters of the registration mark shall, at all times, be visible from the front or the rear of the motor vehicle. (3) No registration plate shall be fixed in the front of a trailer. (4) Where a trailer or a semi-trailer is drawn by another vehicle, the registration plate of the drawing vehicle shall be fixed on the back right-hand side and that of the trailer or semi-trailer on the back left-hand side of the trailer or semi-trailer. (5) A registration plate shall be fixed at a height of not more than 1.5 metres from ground level. '' So, its very much horizontal. not to worry. i'll get my hands on one of those motorised show plates soon the number plate is perfectly visable where it is, for other road users and for speed cameras, so unless a Copper is in a bad mood it'l probably go unnoticed. if he walks around the car he is at the proper angle for it to be perfectly visable too. its nothing like ''clearly disaplying it'' on the dashboard like alot of people do, and seem to get away with for quite some time so yea, thats the law about it for anyone whos interested

It is such a sore thumb now. I know the polishing look is readily available and common, but i've got to be honest i am not a fan of chrome at all. i hate it like i hate carbonfiber-look parts However my options are quite limited i feel. if i were to anodise, etc, to apply a green or orange colour i think it would dominate the engine bay. So i am thinking 3 routes. to which im listening to all suggestions... 1 - polish it. have it shiny chrome. 2 - clean it, to remove the oxidation marks and make it a clean OEM grey. 3 - get it anodies in glossy black. im thining back so it doesnt dominate, and will also not contrast too heavily with the top of the engine cover. opinions welcome