Piranha

Thanks for that Tricky-Ricky has also suggested this, so if its worked for both of you its got to be the logical move.

Thats great thanks. Wife has car at the moment so wont have a chance to test voltage until tomorrow, the amount of cca seems very low for such a powerful car and problem only started when the cold weather arrived, I suppose this is why for the rest of the day it cranks first time with no issues. I will start looking at new battery, I saw on the G35 forum that 582cca is the recommended amount, if that's the case I'm 242cca down which is a lot, I'm running reverse cam and dash cam so guess that's not helping much either.

Mine has snapped exposing the post, any ideas where to get a replacement? Thanks

Car is fitted with a a sterling one aftermarket alarm . On cold start up the car cranks almost starts, then dies causing electrics to die (nothing lights up on instrument panel) until I press a button on the alarm fob at which point hey presto, cluster lights up again car starts first time. When this occurs it can cause issues with the setting of the auto windows i.e they do not drop when opening the door. knowing that the car has a requirement to reset the windows on fitting a new battery this leaves me to believe there is a momentary loss of connection to battery on cold start up. Checked the battery and cranking amps are at 340cca, looking around I'm sure our cars require around 600cca. So I'm wondering if on cold start up insufficient cranking amps cause the aftermarket immobilizer to kick in. What size cca battery's are recommended for these cars, could it be as simple a fix as replacing battery? Its a JDM import with small posts negative post closest to engine positive beside front wing.

Had to get my passenger side motor replaced after similar issue. Now working as it should

Worried now, not looking forward to my Bose failing which I guess is inevitable Its usually the tape player that fails, but If you have the TV tuner option fitted you can add another audio and video source. Sorry missed this, thanks that's reassuring as tape player is fine. I do have the TV tuner but spend most of the time viewing a green leaf fuel economy screen. I must learn some Japanese lol. Shame the 2003 heater controls r all in one.

It could be linked, i don't have any codes up though and engine runs like a dream, only had car 5 months so experienced more cold starts than hot LOL, I could see this quite easily disappearing during the summer. Cars still under warranty, so will get it checked out next week just in case there is pending mechanical failure. I will leave it with them over night so they can cold start to reproduce

Sorry missed this , its an auto box

I've continued searching on both issues and both seem very common with the majority stating they've had it for years and its not a problem. Its most likely my car is developing a few creaks n groans related to age, a bit like me Its going in for rear brakes, drop links and bushes next week, so I will get the oil and filter changed just in case, as some people refer to a dry start up issue linked to oil pump.

Yeah if I start it again a couple of hours later I don't get the rattle , it starts and purrs like a new engine.

Continuing research at the moment This is the rattle sound I am hearing https://www.youtube....h?v=kWqxyQkPwVg Also read this which does make sense, sound like I have the former and not the latter: If you have a VQDE engine (2003 to 2005) this is not an uncommon problem and there is a TSB from Nissan explaining it. On a cold start one of the intake VTC (valve timing control) sprocket units can make a rattling sound for one second until it re-indexes. My 2004 did this every now and then for the ten years I owned it. I never bothered to replace it, as apparently it causes no long-term harm. I couldn’t find the 350 Z TSB This engine has a timing chain guide that tensioned by oil pressure, but it also incorporates a ratchet mechanism to keep it from losing tension when the engine is turned off. A problem with this unit will cause a more pronounced marble-in-a-can knocking sound that persists for longer than a few seconds at start up

This only happens when the car has sat for a day and started cold, an initial thump comes from around drivers foot well area, there is also an initial grinding / rattle / rasp sound that lasts for about a second, then back to a quiet engine. 2003 engine on 40k last oil change July 14, not burning oil, nice and smooth running. The thump & rattle can occur together but often its one or the other. I have read on some forums that it could be to do with a return valve in the air filter, others have said its linked to the timing chain. Some have said dealers state as long as the noise lasts for 1 - 2 seconds its not a problem. Since the weather has started to warm up a bit, i also get a slight wiff of petrol fumes outside the car not sure if this is related or its running rich. Any one had similar problems Thanks

Worried now, not looking forward to my Bose failing which I guess is inevitable

Oh so that's what they call slammed 😀

Could be the drop links at the front

Will you be getting any more in the future

Discs, Pads, Drop links & bushes all arrived next day delivery. looking forward to getting them fitted. Thanks Ewen for your advice, speedy service and the Haribo

Yeah mine idles at that as well

I have the same on mine with no TC issues

Check the electric windows are operating correctly on it

Hi and welcome Sorry to here you've got problems with the car The window motors are well known for failing, you may be able to strip and clean bushes, if not its a new motor. Regarding door opening, sounds like an issue with locking mechanism. It could be that someone has tried to access window motor and could have messed it up. Did u buy private or dealers

Thanks for advice, I did notice they were not great on fuel economy but seemed to have good wet rating, I use car as a daily runner so not planning to track. I may up the rear width to 275 because it seems to level out speedo to an accurate reading and the P Zeros come up as available in this bigger width. with the current mixed set up on the car, I have already experienced your example of loss of traction when going other uneven repaired road and some times the slip light flashes when I'm turning right on uneven road. So thinking I should sort sooner than later.

Ok first of all great post , I feel a bit stupid now for not finding it. What u say makes sense, I always thought mixed tyres were ok as long as they were same tread pattern on front and rear even though different brands. This means that my current set up is mixed and not good. So I'm thinking now I should move rears to front and put new 265/40/19 p zero on rear making sure I match tread all round. ?

Ok thanks i will have a look.

Hi All I am looking to replace 2 tyre's and wondered if anyone can confirm my calculations / logic is correct. Firstly my car is a 2003 v35 built on same chassis as 350z just a bit longer. In 2003 the standard stock wheel / Tyre setup was 225/45/18 FR & 245/45/18 R My car came with aftermarket alloys setup of 225/40/19 FR & 245/40/19 R and this matches the OEM Tyre set up from 2005. If I am correct the speed calibration is based on the rear wheels so the change from 18 to 19 setup above makes no real difference to the speedo reading. My current rears are Pirelli P ZERO almost new, the fronts are cheepo budget tyres again almost new. My plan is to shift the P Zeros to the front and add either goodyearF1 A/S or MPPS to the rear. Therefore only needing to buy 2 tyres. The setup would then be 245/40/19 FR & 265/40/19 R, from my calculations this would ever so slightly reduce the speedo reading to: 29.6 MPH when doing 30 & 59.3 mph when doing 60, again quite a small change. Are there benefits to increasing the width of fr & R tyres in this way, or should I stick with the current widths, i do not want to mess up traction control. Thanks In advance