coyoteboy

I pulled my bonnet pull to change the oil and the cable attachment point pulled clean through the lever. I now have to pull my bonnet pull with pliers Is anyone breaking a 370 that fancies taking that little bit off? I don't need the cable, just the plastic lever bit.

I think a number of other items would be igniting along with them (ignition point being >300C I think) - your general under-bonnet temps never get anywhere near ignition point of these things. If it were local to an exhaust component I would be more worried, but the brake servo is off in a separate compartment from the engine anyway?

FYI - the mid-box is just a stuffed perf tube.

Still not found any cause - can't get the fans to turn on in the drive idling for 10 minutes but the temps don't change either now. Really odd. I ended up vacuum filling the system (that tool works really well!) with new cooland and some UV dye so will find out if I start losing coolant anywhere.

Every site I visit specs a different battery for it, none of which match the one in my car. Having the same issue, both on CCA/Ah and dimensions.

Mine clicks like made in the warm weather. Drives me bonkers.

Hmmm can't find a bleed process here, and floating about online there's a lot of talk of bleed valves in the heater hoses - I have none. Do we have to vacuum bleed these? I'm not keen to spend 100 quid on a vacuum bleed tool for one use but if I'm likely to airlock myself to death I'd rather do it.

Not when you're compressing a ton of air - piston/rod mass at cranking speed will not create enough force to overcome an 11:1 compression ratio air spring at TDC. Rod knock can occur with ~100 microns of (extra) bearing clearance - you won't have a compression tester capable of the resolution needed to see the change due to it and cycle to cycle variation due to ring sealing, valve sealing and other things will be higher than you see with the bearing play.

Hi, Assumed this is sold due to no contact. Found another solution, cheers though - GLWS if not!

Hmm close inspection of the fan units, including a strip-down, show no problems at all. Both work fine when connected to a battery - I stripped and checked the brushes and bearings anyway to be sure, then re-assembled and re-checked. I guess the ECU controls them separately anyway, so I was probably freaking out over nothing there. I'm going to run some UV dye through the system and try to find some leaks, in case it's that building up an airlock.

Still for sale? Would you ship it in the UK for that price - I'm a long way away!

Very simple electrical check to show no fault on the system and no likely intermittent fault = you insuranceless and the burden of proof on you.

Hmm right, thanks for that - I'll search about and dig up more info, but that narrows down the target area nicely, thanks. Totally freaked me out, gone from being the most reliable car I've owned to potential catastrophic engine damage in one journey!

Since it's considered part of the security system, if your car gets pinched I'd be mildly worried about voiding your insurance as you've tampered with the system they consider the baseline (you know what they're like)...

So I sat idling for a while (30 minutes, traffic queue) yesterday and I didn't notice the temp LEDs going north. They reached the 3rd from right before the rad cap decided to turn into a kettle (literally whistling) and vent 4 litres of water onto the road. No warning beeps, no water level warning - nothing. I turned the engine off and rolled it to the side of the road for 30 minutes, added some more water and she fired up and drove home just fine, no overheat, no extra rattles or knocks, oil reached 115 so was probably doing the bulk of my cooling. I'm hoping no damage. When I got home I saw the drivers side rad fan was spinning slowly (quietly) so I know that works, and the passenger side one was not spinning but was free to do so - so I'm a bit baffled as to why it's vented its guts. I idled it in the drive for 10 minutes and couldn't get it to repeat the problem. I'll check the usual (fan stats, both fan function etc), look for pinhole leaks with a UV dye, but is there anything commonly known on these that would catch me out? Cheers