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Snjur

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Everything posted by Snjur

  1. Snjur

    My little 370z

    Cheers mate. Why not Just get something custom made? For me it worked out less than buying from the US and shipping to the UK. Im located in Croatia so if they dont have mould already in think it will be pain in the butt. This is similar to stardast what gas for 350z Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  2. Snjur

    My little 370z

    I think this is the best spoiler i have seen so far. Too bad there is nothing for 350z like this. Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  3. If i didn't go with 2 snails under the bonnet i wouldn't be in this problems now Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks on reply. Yes i have narrowed search for those 2 and http://www.ebay.com/itm/221463549914. Which ones you are using Ford RS or Fiesta. If u dont mind drop a picture here as for the time being im stuck in Angola so my internet speed is disaster to search throughout topics Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  5. Now we are on 635 bhp on 1.1-1.2 bar of boost. So on 1.5 i think its doable. To squeeze out 60 70 bhp on 0.3 bar increase. Anyway keeping fingers cross Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  6. Started production on my exhaust which will be a copy of Invidia Gemini. Next week will take one of the springs from wastegates and make a stiffer/stronger springs based on it as i couldn't go over 1.2 bar of boost with present springs. And see what we can get on 1.5 bar of boost. Im looking somwhere around + 700 bhp Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  7. What model of radiator is that one. Bigger size than Oem? Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  8. Well i would take usa figures with reserve. That means that just with basic bolt on's and larger tb he is having around 330 on crank. For me bit optimistic. Also on stock plenum after larger TB you are again coming on a smaller diameter of plenum "neck". Should this "neck" have to be bigger diameter to follow flow of larger tb Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  9. Either way you look at it, it takes a sh.. load of $$$ to build something which can be used daily and reliable over 600 bhp. Just in parts you have 5500-6000 usd without shipping and custom. Decent Ecu is around 1500 1500 usd second hand Injector depends new or second around 600 usd. Turbo kit as well from 5000 onwards. And than various fabrication and mechanical jobs around block, heads etc... Man it really ends up in hughe amount. Specially if you are not in those "waters" where u know people so u need to pay for labour as well for materials. Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  10. We get them from the states or China, I don't want HR rear lights as they are nice but I am looking at alternatives You get this from states or China Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  11. Hard to imagine u would go from GTR to Corvette. Stick with Godzila Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  12. A really nice looking rear end. Missing only HR led tail lights now. You got car lab turn indicators from states or u have them in UK as well Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  13. Concerning hot air escape it can only go through hood if you have vents as hot air tends to rise and gets trapped by the hood. As far as col air intake i reckon is not much of a effect and i would even dare to say it messes up with aerodynamics Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  14. Snjur

    Japspeed K4

    Sure mate. I think if you can stretch a bit with coins Invidia is excellent choice. Perfect fitment buddy has it now for 3 years and still works flawless. K4 already after half year of use is not the same exhaust it was. The quality of insulation used for sond is poor and it burns out quickly, stainless steel is also not much of qualit. For first aid it can help but gain after a year or so you are in same problems Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  15. Just saw it. So what you think it could be fitted to a bonnet to look more or less like stock since you have already mounted it. I see that is a DE bonnet on yours mine is Hr Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  16. Cool. Do you maybe have a picture of it on the car? You got it from States or? Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  17. No not the scope type after more like gils so hot air from engine bay can go out as hit air tends to rise. Similar to Seibon hood i thinks it called ts style Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  18. Yes i was also looking in R35 type but they look more of intake for air to come in rather than for escape of hot air. Thank again it all how u type it in Google. When i type hood louvers there is much more choice of design mostly used in American cars. All this universal stuff from Ebay looks ricer to me Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  19. Well as title says im in search for some hood vents or ideas where i might get them. I need to take out excess heat from engine since turbines are heating up engine bay quite nicely. As i have already CF hood it won't be too much of a problem to insert this. Only problem is i can't find anything decent which is not looking "ricer" or the ones which i like such as APR ones are pricey. If anyone has done this or has any ides please step forward Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  20. Well as title says im in search for some hood vents or ideas where i might get them. I need to take out excess heat from engine since turbines are heating up engine bay quite nicely. As i have already CF hood it won't be too much of a problem to insert this. Only problem is i can't find anything decent which is not looking "ricer" or the ones which i like such as APR ones are pricey. If anyone has done this or has any ides please step forward Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  21. Snjur

    Japspeed K4

    If you run cat's not so much loud. But then depends from person to persom what is loud. Fitment takes bit time to align everything. Quality is so so. You get what u pay for. Have mine now 1.5 to 2 years and is ready for scrap. Im this time I have weld it already 2 times. Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  22. No more problems with coolant temp after going back to OEM radiator and fans. Tested repeatedly it never went over 98 °C. Only thing what i plan to add or better say replace is OEM thermostat and radiator cap with Nismo ones Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
  23. So bit of review here after couple od thousand miles Car works and drives like its on railroad tracks. Combination od suspension upgrades going with all polyurethane bushings front,rear and diff together with Yokohama AD08R and Quaife is phenomenal. Downside of all this that car has lost that intended GT comfort/cruise thing. Specially on bumpy roads u need to have a 2 hand on steering wheel as rebound is much faster with polyurethane. Level of traction of Yokohamas phenomenal. Due to their stiff side wall comfort is 0, but reaction and feedback on steering wheel is flawless. In any given moment you can feel on steering where is the car and how much grip you have. On wet as well really excellent tyre. Where i was most impressed was a stoping power of this tyres while they are warm. Unbelievable that car can stop in such a small distance without activating ABS. Haltech no need to talk to much about it. Really excellent piece of ECU monitoring all engine sensors and preventing that something goes wrong. I was having heating problems which (later on that) which could have gone in much more way but was kept under control by ECU. Cutting rpm limits if something is not within set parameters. ESP on this thing is much more progressive you have i would say depending of steering angle and applied power around meter of slide before it kicks in. This can come quite nice at track where you need bit of slides. Once it engages is much more softer and nicer comparing to stock ESP. Hardly u can feel it working. Come as well with goodies like Launch control which is really nice feature and flat shift. Still need to connect flat shift as i need to conect a clutch pedal sensor which i destroy when i was swaping oem pedal for RJM one. A buddy who has mapped car did flawless job. Car is driving like nothing has been done. Ignition i same like it was oem. Until 3800 rpm i would say a stock VQ35De. U can't say or feel that it has twin turbo or SA ecu. Stock car. No lights on dash, all features working such as cruise control AC.... From 3500/3800 rpm you can start hearing whistle from turbine compressor and feel difference in car behavior. On 4000 it start pulling with significant force and 5000 do 7500 rpm is mental pull. What did fascinate me how car is drivable and how this power can be put to the ground without problem. Of course if you floor it 2nd and 3rd gear or 4th even you will get a wheel spin. But the reaction of pedal position and actual power is quite nice. What i want to say pedal feeling is like i still have NA car. There is no gap or delay between a pedal and throttle. Some turbo cars you push pedal and than there is a delay between power delivery and actual depression of pedal. Hopefully u will understand what i mean. Consumption in normal circumstances hasnt change a lot i would dare to say almost same. And now to overheating part... Since we mounted all together i was having peaks in coolant temp up to 110 °C and than Haltech would already kick in. On a SR event while in lane for start i noticed temp is going up on dash luckily i was just b4 starting line so i managed to cool the car down. Went to pits and decided to take down Mishimoto thermostat and replaced it with oem one. Bleed the sistem and all tested car all ok. Went on second run big traffic to a start 33 °C outside temp and again coolant temp start going up... Again pits change this time radiator cap and went with oem. Decided to call it a day and went to garage. Again hooked up that jar for bleeding system to radiator drained all. Went on test drive again. As soon as you push the car couple of gear close to red rpm area coolan temp goes to 110 °C. Wasn't good. Since we spent so much time bleeding system even lifting car all kinds of funny things we start ruling out cooling and start suspecting head gaskets And little bit here little bit there we got in touch with owner who had first boosted Z in Croatia and i would say one of first boosted Zed in Europe who was being assembled at Novidem in Switzerland. Was often on Ring and track around EU After chatting with him we found out he had almost identical problems. While driving normal coolant was ok. As soon as it started to push car temp would go up. Car was for a month at Novidem while they where trying to figure out what was wrong. It turns out larger radiator. VQ35DE requires fast exchange of coolant water between radiator and engine. By placing a larger radiator you are actually slowing down that process. On NA cars this has not much of influence i belive you can floor the pedal on standard VQ and come in couple of days time coolant temp wouldn't move. But in boosted applications where temperatures are quite higher and peaks are more often this is very important. Since it didn't cost me anything to try swaping radiators except labour time b4 taking heads down ( coolant was tested for Co2 presence and result negative) decide to ditch Mishimoto and put OEM radiator and Fans. Bleed the system and went on a test rides. Repeatedly pushing car from 2 to 6th gear on highway coolant temp never went in its peak more than 98°C. And this was after 4 or 5 concluded repeat. This coolant temp really cost me a headache. So much time was lost on bleeding car for air checking inspecting figuring out all but in the end we manage to find it out. Still I have difference in mixture between Bank 1 and Bank 2. It's some 10% which has been compesated with fuel trim. But this is 10% of lost power. I still suspect on Cosworth camshafts. B4 make final verdict i will inspect turbines Mitsubishi TD06-20g although i doubt as they came new and where inspected at Apexi USA. Since mechanically car is flawless, dynamic pressure inside all 6 cylinders is identical 14.0 bar, all other components have as well been tested, heads have been tested twice all perfect, and this difference is appearing with increas of RPM plus fuel compesation was done for entire bank not 1 particular cylinder leads me to think that Cosworth aka Kelford cams suck. Combine that with missing end plugs what happened earlier with them and you have a combination for failure. Customer support is 0 and the best of all there is no warranty on them. Unlike Mishimoto Customer support which is something by far best experience i had so far in terms or warranty and complains Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk
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