veeg33

Might be hidden in the secret compartment behind the passenger's seat.

I still have about 25cm ish of black sponge that I'm happy to give away for free. 1st come 1st served

Been struggling all winter with steamy windows after I've parked my car over night or parked my car at work. I always have to sit my zed for around 10mins or so for the air con to dry them up and also the rear windscreen heater. I also have to wipe them down sometimes when it's pretty moist. And also they were frozen inside as well. My air conditioning still working fine and I don't have issue whilst I'm driving, just steamy once I turn off my engine and park it. Been trying all sort dehumidifier but still having issue with steamy windows. I've also checked to ensure no leakage, especially where the spare wheel is. Finally, by reading various comments in this forum, it seems like my seals are not as good as new (11yrs old). Here's my temporary fix (trial and error) Yes, stuffed a microfiber cloth on both doors. And for the past few days, the condition in my zed has improved a lot. No steamy front windscreen, no steamy side windows and only a tiny bit at the rear. I suspect my rear tailgate is not sitting square due to one of the popper/stores missing. Overall, a massive improvement and I don't have to sit in a steamy zed...... Here's the fix - black rubber sponge 10mm diameter, 50cm long Bought from Ebay for £2.25 delivered. Simply cut about 12cm long, fold into half and stuff into the gap. You'll be surprised how big the gap inside there and the seal has actually collapsed hence sealing at that top corner is poor. Next, based on some research, I've bought some seal conditioner to soften all the seal. Bought it from eBay as well around £6.50 delivered. Gummi Pflege Stift from Germany. Will be applying them later this weekend on all seal and will report back again. Simply just clean the rubber seal, then just use the applicator (just like shoe polish) all around the seal. This will also makes them nice and shiny black again Disclaimer: This will only improve your seal, not completely renew them. And only works if your zed is not leaking. EDIT: 16th Mar 2016 - Applied the Gummi stuff last weekend, got a nice shine on the rubber but weather isn't cold enough to check if it has improved the seal or not. Planned to apply few more coats to treat the seal and check next winter

Hello and welcome

I'm assuming you can bake them, remove the housing and replace them. Worth a try as they cost around £260 per pair. But they should last forever. LEDs are pretty good.

Hello and welcome

It's a full unit mate, changed mine last year and it's definitely worth it. Clark Motorsports a trader here sells them, that's where I got mine. As for the interior LEDs, my zed went crazy when I changed mine. Heated seats doesn't work, windows can only go down, can't go back up, can't lock my car...... Etc. Have to send it back to Nissan garage for an electronic reset. However, you can still do it safely by disconnecting the battery first, swap the LEDs, test them, if needed to switch the polarity, disconnect battery again.

Congrats!

Sorry to hear about this Wendy, glad that you are OK and hope the insurance thingy will go smoothly.....

Also different headlights - DE have orange reflectors on the sides, HR doesn't. However as all the above, check inside the hood (double intake for HR, single for DE) to confirm as bonnets and headlights can be swap.

As you said, Highways England (formally known as Highways Agency) are encouraging drivers to take a break and now you are getting a fine for taking a long break (2hrs plus).......surely you can file a complaint to protest this (info@highwaysengland.co.uk)? Worth checking the signage etc as Ekona said, are they visible where you have parked and visible when you enter the building. Having said all that, with all that effort needed.......one might just choose to pay and forget about it, but others might fight until the end..... Storyline: You got a little bit tired whilst driving (after 3 hours non-stop), stopped at the break area and parked next to a truck, no visible signage (dark and raining) saying 2 hrs limit, you dose off, woke up and drove off.....next thing you know, you got a fine. Good luck

Please don't pay THAT much http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-components-accessories/hose-pipes-parts-and-pumps/universal-12volt-washer-pump/?BAR825&0&cc5_896 Never knew that can replace the OEM pump Wish I knew about it 8 months ago. Thought I've already saved some money by buying blue print vs OEM. Well, if my rear pump needs replacing now I know where to get them cheap. cheers

Fibre optic if you can. My broadband advertised as 16Mbps but I only max 4.5Mbps. Go for highest possible now to stream best quality, 4K in your case......

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As above, I passed MOT in 2014 before I replace new rear motor. Just incase you need, BluePrint has aftermarket pump costing around £26. Here's the part number ADN10316 (Amazon or Ebay)

Should be easy mate. Which one you are replacing? I'm assuming front as I remember seeing one of your threads before? Anyway, both are located behind driver side wheel liner. Do a full steering lock (to the left), and you should be able to access the pumps without removing front bumper Remove few bolts that secures the wheel liner, you should be able to just push them a side exposing the pumps. If i remember correctly, the front pump is the other one. You can remove the connectors first, connect to your new pump. Nissan 'fail safe' these as the front connector will only connect to the front pump and rear connector only to the rear. So no chance of mixing up. Connect your new pump first to the connector before removing the old pump from the reservoir. Once its done, test the pump and should be a able to hear the motor working. Once confirmed its working, you can now remove the old pump from the reservoir. Its as simple as just pull them out, same goes to the tube that supplies fluid to your washer. No bolts or anything to remove. But be prepared with your other hand......depends on the level of fluid you have in your reservoir, you'll need to plug the hole with your finger or something or you can just let the fluid drain out. Then just push the new pump in and bolt the wheel liner back in.

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Hello and welcome

Hello and welcome

Aircon is permanently all the time, no issue whilst driving, only issue when I park my car after driving. I did try to few times driving with windows open for the last 5 mins before stopping my car, condensation still an issue after. Sorry, I didn't make it clear that the condensation issue only happens when my zed is parked after a period of time, not during driving. My apologies. I also have 2 bags of reusable silica bags which I almost have to put them in microwave every week during 'peak' times. Thanks guys, sounds like I don't really need to buy new boot rubber seals.

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Never used them before, but this seems a good idea --> http://www.rimblades.com/

Been trying to investigate where the condensation comes from since last winter and still hasn't found the root cause yet!! I've bought some mini dehumidifier and placed them in the car for about 4 months, and this doesn't seems to sort it out. I've also removed all car mats, dry them out on radiator (in the house) and placed some news papers under the mats before putting all mats back in. After 1 months, there isn't any sign of water on the news papers hence I think there isn't any leaks. Next suspect is the door rubber seals and boot rubber seals. I've seen a post earlier this year that one can stuff some sponge/foam under door rubber seals to lift them up for a better sealing. I will try this once I've managed to get some sponge/foam. And this morning, i noticed that the condensations (from last night) have frozen near the top brake light. I'm assuming that the rubber seals at the top has failed? Anyone experienced this before? Can I still get them new as I only found used ones on Ebay? I've checked many common issues that other fellow zed owners has diagnosed but mine still hasn't resolve.

Sorry to hear that mate!! Get the code (OBD reader) from your zed if possible, that should point you to the right direction. Sounds like a faulty sensor as above said.