zebedy

yep keep is simple. Like that tag names tho so people know who we are.

here you go pete - this is what I used - cheap and really good. Ive also got some black vinyl too if you need some for the outside. Not a match I know but ok for now till I get a new roof. But with this stuff is clear and is all done from the inside like partching up a bycicle tube http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stormsure-Soft-Top-Car-Hood-Roof-Repair-Kit-Convertible-Cabriolet-Fabric-Windows-/171539893894?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27f0930e86#ht_2263wt_1199

yep lol wet seat belt exactly like mine. If you need a roof at any point, come down to South Wales, Swansea where Jack Smith does his magic. New roof using the oem rear window. Takes him one day to strip and re-fit for £280 and offers a good guarantee on his work. All the MX-5 community raves about him and come from all over the UK just for his work. Ill keep you all posted when I get mine. Also if you want a different colour, he can do but prices double up almost.

looks good.

very very swish sir.

nice bit of kit and at half the cost. Gotto ask, is this a common issue with these cars and if so around what kinda milage??. Had the same thing go on a RAV 4 years ago. Not cheap.

read this too from another u.s. forum http://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadster/315007-convertible-top-problem.html

YE Hes correct regarding the elastic bands. Get them from nissan or cheaper from a habodashory's (sewing shop) but you will need a rivet gun to re-do these bands. its an easy job. If I was closer Id do it for you. Keep us posted

Hi Pete, there is aproduct on ebay for patching it up from the inside. Kit comes with clear patches and glue. All done from the inside. Pretty good stuff and cheap. Just ebay search for convertable roof repair kit. His products come up all over the place. Highly reccomend. Also might be worth looking at the rear corners on the inside where the fith bow sits in the corners. They tend to split there as there is alot of tension on the roof at this point from the bow. When I change my roof (done by JACK SMITH, SWANSEA for £280 all in) he will be putting leather pads on these points to re-enforce the vunerable corners. @ leebotril. If your roof is not lifting at all. Get your partner to sit in the car and foot on brake and press the button. Stand outside on the drivers side and slowly manually lift the window section up until it hits the microswitch (pull section all the way open untill its just over vertical). The hard shell will then move (open) and the front of the roof will begin to retract. If the window section does not drop down into the stow away part of the car, go to the passanger side of the car, and press the microswitch thats located at the 5th bow pivot point down at the bottom. Keep your finger on it untill the rear window section starts to fall. Take your finger off the switch after about 2 secs and all should just carry on with the proceedure untill its ready to drive. Sound like you are having issues with the 5th bow motor????

Seriously, if your car is not under warranty dont take it to a dealership. They know nothing about these roofs. I can see properly from the pics whether these are riveter or bonded on. If this section is rivited on, just drill em out and re-rivet them with a small 10mm Washer to prevent them from pulling through again. Use some glue too like contact adhessive. Dealer will only do the same and charge you a fortune. You can pick up a rivet gun for 8 quit in machine mart. The roof should not be opperated under a certain cold temp. Not shure what at hand, as the roof material does indeed get stiff. If you need it down over winter make sure you have heating on in your garage or if not, put the heater on full blast in ya car for 20 mins which will soften the material. This is one of the main causes of the fith bow motor failure. Its weak as it is. Putting undue and extra loading on it from stiff material eventually leads to failure. Ill take a look at mine tonight and compare the same section and will get back to you Zeb

if it was her fault, which it was, dont worry. Her insurance will cover the lot. Make sure you ask for a like for like courtesy car when yours is in, ie a coupe of sorts. Like someone said, new wing, new door skin, new quarter maybe and paint. good luck.

Just wanted people's views on the subject out of interest. That's all. And yes I'll be doing it.

Everyone hates my MG180 rear spoiler but I say, ah but its mine. lol My taste, my car, my money. Never been ripped off to date, thanks god, but if I did, my muscles would come into play with my nasty friends.

im with you Kyle. Oh well. Looks as though Im gonna do it anyway. Small IMPORT type lettering on a sticky sticker thingy. Reminds me regards having the same problems on my fireblade back in days. Brush scripts, tiny lettering etc. we just took the buiscut back then. :teeth: could be worse - I could be optiing for black background and silver writting like on classic cars. That would open up another depate lol

As anyone had experience of using just vynil registration plates without the clear perpex plates. Just stuck onto the bumper. Ill be fitting my Amuse Style front end shortly and was thinking about sticking the plate either where it is now or at the bottom section facing slightly out but certainly up. Whats the law regards to sicker number plates. Back in the early eighties it was in fashion to stick em on our rally prepared escorts on the bonnets. lol ah the days!!! Also at the same time was thinking of using the import size letering as these plates are generally smaller. Can I do this with a UK car??? thanks Zeb

very swish

you cant other than photoshop. Just download another PDF convertor free on the web. theres tonnes out there. One Im using here is doPDF. Its brill and no times or trials, just free.

i love the gunmetal race car with the orange. would be inkeeping with the burned orange interior too. God, too much options now. I was gonna go green. Now Ive seen this. Would save me a fortune lol

Yep. On mine...engine running, foot on brake the press the button. At least you should hear the rear hard shell disengaging with a click. If nothing after that it'll be the fith bow motor which does the 1st phase of the movement. Renowned for failing and cost big bucks to replace, there is a Nissan billeting in here to service the said motor and check procedure. Good luck there. Mine is still hit n miss but love it when it does work. Lol

Ye ok sounds like a good plan. I'll keep the lot on here in one place. Like you said some guys think you buy panels and pop straight on and yes some do. But unfortunately most definitely don't. Lol

GM...honestly their stuff is the dogs doodaas compared to the sides and rear.

Lastly for now the side skirts. Produced in germany and can be bought from eBay. Item is AR side skirts. I've bought direct from these before so know the quality. Not as good as RT but better than EP Racing. So not bad for your buck. They do require a small amount of trimming between the door jamb and door against the OEM sill step. Some filling required where item is pulled and a few small marks on the gel coat. Some sanding prepping and high build primer is the way to go. Nice sharp lines Typical of some grip kits. Note sure if you can see these. Next step will be fitting the sills which ill document again. Was debating what to use as bonding. In the past I've always used fibrefill or p40 but once set there is no flexibility as its made up of fibreglass strands and resin. Others swear blind on sikoflex and tiger seal, so this time gonna opt for the latter as I plan to stiffen and lower the car at a later stage. This stuff will not crack under vibration or stresses of the roads which are mostly **** poor condition around where I live. It may be after having a closer look at the sills they could just fix on with a few self tappers or pop rivets??

Ok next is RT Performances Amuse front. What can I say. A trillion miles apart. Far superior product. Great packaging. Estimated about four layers of mat. Nice thick gel coat. Trim lines spot on. No pulls no filler. Looks as tho they look after their moulds as lines are sharp. Came pre primeed in grey with black resin around the inside. Attached small steel tags to fix mesh. Guys I highly reccomend R T. Well done guys. More to buy from you in due course. [/url Nice clean trims. Minimal work from me required.

Note sure if you can see but stresslines in the gel coat. Trim lines quite rough. So this is how it comes with a recess for the jdm rear. All in all as expected with grp items produced by the Far East. Would be interesting to know how the veil side kits hold out. I've built kit cars in the past spending upwards of eight grand on panels which were on par with this. So not always you get what you paid.

Here is the es style rear apron