Chromatic

Thanks for looking out for me. I'm not too concerned about such things,.. but you never know I guess. Appreciate you removing it.

Hrmm.. I've seen people AFTER they've wrapped stuff in pictures,.. but I wouldn't even know where to buy the "wrap". Know what the stuff is called, and maybe a link to some wrap? Like can you get just black if you want? Or spend more money and get carbon fiber looking wrap,.. etc? Yeah, I'm a total noob when it comes to wrapping anything beyond a christmas present lol..

Heh.. I'm not worried about the spam -- I have it all over craigslist right now in a "WTB" for the Nismo S tune.. literally in like 20 states. It's my last ditch effort to see if I get any responses,.. if I don't in about a week I'll probably buy something else. Miltek -- That's one I've not heard of yet. Is it "quiet" at idle,.. Does it "drone" at any rpm's/cruising speed in cabin? (By quiet I don't mean I want it as quiet as the stock exhaust.. that'd be pointless.. but by quiet I mean I'm aiming to be around the dB level of the Nismo S tune.) -- my budget is limited.. $800 just isn't much to work with when you are buying an exhaust for a 350Z -- (If I had a mustang or something I could get a great Flowmaster exhaust for like $300.. that's one bane of these cars.. is nothing is "cheap" .. hell my two K&N filters on this HR motor cost (IIRC) -- $80-90 a piece. .. Maybe it was $100 for the pair, I forgot.) I'll hit up Tarmac, thanks. And.. everyone else that is bored, or just wants to try and help -- Maybe you can find stuff online (or through contacts/friends, etc) that I can't. I'm trying best I can though lol. This went from.. Yeah I want exhaust.. to ok now I know which one (Nismo S tune) -- To ok.. now it's a MISSION cause of how hard this is becoming to locate. Thanks Z Legend.

Hrmm.. I can only think of wrapping it with Carbon fiber. How hard is that to do? Or do you have another material/idea to wrap it to make it look decent?

What's that all aboot, eh? I suppose Canada? -- What's that all aboot, eh? I suppose Canada? -- Thank you. I'll add you to this if you like - nice to expand the map a bit more http://www.350z-uk.c...-location-maps/ http://maps.yourgmap...0z-370z-uk.html Again, thanks for the warm welcome everyone. And yes, please add me, Vlad. Not sure what you need -- but my address is: REMOVED Take care,

This is a relatively minor "issue" -- But you know that compartment that pops open with the latch/button above your radio? (where a car with Navigation would have the nav unit?) Here's a picture (not my car).. but I circled the area/button in red I'm talking about: Edit: -- I just noticed that button is a little different than mine. That one you just press it in and it opens. On my 2008 you actually push it and kind of push down to open it (those who have the same button as I do know what I'm talking about.) -- But regardless the "finish" fix would be the same. That button, from just obvious use,.. Is scratched up.. -- Not sure how to fix it. This is what I've tried -- Sharpie (black marker). I THINK I used the black paint pen/marker on it. Looks ok after I do it.. but after using the button once or twice it comes right off. Anyone have any ideas to fix it more permanently? I don't want to buy that whole piece for a button! lol.. It's obviously low on the priority list, but decided I'd ask in case you guys had some good ideas. Merci!

Oops.. I never posted what I did for this! Sorry. I ended up Buying a new piece for that area for about $70'ish.. that's made differently (not white under the "paint"/finish.. so any nicks won't show up ) -- And while I had the old piece off I bought a black paint marker.. and used it to touch up the lower piece that I couldn't justify replacing for a half inch spot of scratches. -- Turned out well. For reference.. Here's what it DID look like: and... Here's how it looks now: Yeah the picture was at night... but it looks great. Looks brand new (as it is lol) -- but the touch up under it was perfect. Huge cosmetic fix for an otherwise 99 percent perfect interior. Highly recommend people replace it if you can get the part cheap enough.. just easier imo. But pulling it, sanding, priming, painting, clear coat (maybe not).. and wet-sanding if needed can obviously look just as good.

-- So far it looks like finding a Nismo S tune just isn't gonna happen So.. maybe you guys can help,.. even though we are across the pond. I need help (obviously if you can find a Used nismo S tune exhaust (even in the UK).. PLEASE let me know.. But besides the perfect exhaust.. I'm working with two issues here -- 1) Budget of $500-$800 (800 is pushing it for me.. ) -- And 2) Want Nismo S tune.. but doesn't look promising, so need something AS close to the Nismo S tune as I can get (BUT) that fits in that $800 or less budget shipped. Obviously used can help here.. but there are some new exhausts that are really close to that 800 mark. -- So if anyone feels like it.. would you look online, ask around, etc and see if you can find first the Nismo S tune.. and secondarily (and more likely) an exhaust that fits my needs and budget? Then post it here, pm me.. text me.. whatever. Also.. what are your thoughts on using this as a "second best" option instead of Nismo S-tune that fits in my budget? http://www.summitrac...CFeJF7AodxXYAHQ ^^ That's the Exhaust (new) actually. Now that exhaust is a bit loud, drones a bit, and is a little raspy.. but it's VERY well made. SO.. what people do is put a set of Vibrant 1792 Resonators on it (2x resonators welded inline) -- And they CLAIM it takes away the drone and rasp that is there.. and then you have a great sound and true dual exhaust for a good price. Here are the resonators they use: http://www.summitrac...-1792/overview/ The Exhaust is basically $566 shipped. The Resonators basically $100 shipped. So $666 shipped. Def. in my budget. Which is why I need your input lol.. If it's really a good sound, not obnoxious, those resonators really sort of "perfect" it .. then I don't see why not to get it? Otherwise.. the exhausts you guys think are good alternatives to Nismo S tune.. see if you can find any in my budget range.. if so please link them! Thanks so much for anyone who feels like helping.

Thanks.. Almeida1234 I'm not trying to take over your thread.. so I'll leave you to it!

+1 to Almeida's question.. Nismo's are expensive new, and people want new prices for them used. Someone needs to make a knock off and make some money at half price.. But I assume Almedia wants as close to Nismo S Tune qualities as possible,.. which is what I'm after.. Not obnoxiously loud,.. retains Stock tone, but better.. no drone, etc. All of what Nismo S Tune is known for. What catback systems do you guys recommend that are close to the Nismo S Tune?

Hrmm.. I tried that, but it just showed the embed code in a blue link format. Odd. Trying it again here to see if maybe it will pop up after it's submitted instead of just checking in preview mode: http://<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Xno-IGBrViQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Trying old embed code: <object width="560" height="315"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xno-IGBrViQ?hl=en_US&version=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xno-IGBrViQ?hl=en_US&version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="560" height="315" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object> Hrmmm.. no go with pasting either embed format from youtube "share" option using the Chain "Link" option of the editor here.

What's the embed command? Nothing I did worked? Let me know, and I'll switch those links out to embedded videos! Thanks,

Thanks,.. and I agree -- Everyone who contributes with full on DIY's, or even helps others with some knowledge to any degree with projects are kick ass! Hrmm.. I'm about to install some Reverse Lights and Tag lights.. lol,.. I know it's a "fairly" simple process but don't think I've come across any DIY's with a slew of pictures on it yet. As it can be described in a few sentences fairly well. But, I've read of a few people who actually removed their bumpers to put in new reverse light bulbs.. doh! So I may snap some pics when I do it , even though it rates a 1 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.

Thanks. Now I can give advice,.. but to be fair I got plenty of advice (some of it bad.. lol) -- from 2 other forums I visit (car audio forums).. And did a ridiculous amount of research/reading on the subject (even took an online video course on electronics and how headunits, amplifiers, etc really work on a mathematical level lol..) -- Since I tend to write very long posts people equate that to "over-thinking" things.. but it's just the way I work, always have.. (long in text, to the point in one on one conversations in person.) Point is I did about 4-5 weeks of homework before I started ordering parts and then disassembling the entire interior of the car. So I felt fairly comfortable making it all work, and doing it all the "right" way, I don't half-ass things If I can help it. (Sometimes you can't help it lol.. ) What glrnet said. Great pictures and very interesting write up. Well done. Thanks.. I could have taken SO many more pictures,.. but when you have a task that big and somewhat daunting (especially after you get it all apart then step back and take a look at your car and it looks like it is midway on the assembly line lol.. you get a little knot in your stomach like.. (Hrmm.. Did I just do Undo something I won't get back together?) -- But that's the challenge I guess. I tried to keep the "install pictures and descriptions" uncharacteristically brief. At the very least it may give some other people some "ideas" on their own installs,.. and gives them an idea of how the car looks apart. Thanks. I've just about exhausted everything I can do inside the car in regards to gadgets/electronics/stereo/speakers/amps etc.. I have every single input on the back of that headunit with something , well, plugged into it .. IE: The addition of the rear/reverse camera for example. Not a necessity, but since the headunit supported it ,.. and They are on Ebay for $25 -- There really isn't any excuse not to do it if your headunit will support it,.. other than really being a novice at taking some panels off, (and the hardest part imho, taking the gauge pod off and entire stereo/headunit out and dealing with getting it BACK IN. (Piece of advice on that.:: I highly recommend undoing all the screws,.. even pulling the gauge pod unit out a few inches,.. but NOT pulling the cage that holds the headunit in out. -- It is NOT necessary whatsoever. And getting that cage back in (which is the whole gauge pod/center console thing.. with the long legs on bottom can be extremely frustrating (especially as those legs get in the way.) -- Get everything loose (all screws out.. every one of them) -- and pull the head unit out from the cage from the front. Then work on the wiring from that point. Tip 2: If it's super tight when getting your headunit out the first time because the wires are super short.. spend the time cutting them all (noting with camera/picture,.. marking them , etc.. before cutting) and then lengthening them. It makes it all so much easier. If you only plan on taking the headunit out one time .. Then maybe not. But a little wiring cleanup goes a long way.) Off my "advice soapbox". I'm going to do some more DIY writeups like my Shock DIY.. This car has SO MUCH you can do.. nearly endless, especially if you are doing it bit by bit yourself (and don't have loads of money for some shop to do it all while you chill out) -- And some things just don't have the "proper" write-ups on them. I give people who take the extra time to take pictures, and especially those who make videos (of any quality) during a writeup so much credit because you know when working on new projects you've never done before it already takes most of your concentration as you are figuring it out, and making sure you don't screw anything up, scratch your baby, etc. -- Adding in another element of taking pictures and video of each step eats a lot of time and can be a distraction. So to all you people who make guides.. I Salute you!

Added a Reverse Camera to the Vehicle. Ran a Dedicated ground to the factory wiring harness, so the Headunit would have a proper ground (It was grounding through the Antenna,.. which also had a side effect of giving me a shock randomly when I touched the car (ie: opening the door). ) Plus I removed the Pioneer Sirius XM boxes, magnetic antenna, and all wires - And did a slew of wire cleanup behind the headunit and wired in other things that I didn't do the first go around; to name a few : Ran power to the Antenna Amplifier (so FM signal was clear again),.. Wired in the Illumination Wire, .. and other small things like that. To keep it brief, here is the Reverse Camera: Put the Reverse Camera on the Driver side -- It's super "stealth" ... I like it, really no need for brighter tag lights, but I have them on the way anyways. Then here's the image from the $24 Camera -- (Keep in mind it's at night)

Well,.. The amp was getting too hot for my comfort in that Glove Box due to not having any air to circulate. So given the prospect of not being able to really utilize any of the space for anything other than the amp (box is smaller than it seems). I decided to go ahead and drill holes and put an Intake Fan to draw in cool cabin air to rectify the issue. Intake Holes (Not perfection here.. but not finished): Fan Wired via Relay - mounted on spacers Pulling Cabin Air: The holes aren't perfect,.. but I am not finished with it. I am going to get a vent and essentially cut a box out from the edge of the outer holes,.. and then place a vent so the outside looks better, and the airflow should be a bit better as well. It's not absolutely hideous though,.. Even if it is covered by the passenger seat. Amp runs considerably cooler now. I decided to wire the Fan up "properly" so if anything did occur with the electrical system it wouldn't have a chance to mess up the Head unit, as the Remote isn't meant to power anything and is around 250mA give or take. (Yes, I know many people just power stuff off their remote wire,.. but doing things right is worth it in the long run.) So I wired the fan up off a SPST Relay,.. and Fused the power going to the relay with a 3amp Fuse in-line. Essentially it's wired,.. Terminal 85 --> Ground. Terminal 86 --> Remote from Head-unit Terminal 30 --> In-line 3amp Fuse from Power Terminal 87 --> To Positive of Fan The Ground of the fan is wired into the Ground with the other grounds. Didn't anticipate thermal issues with the amp in that location, and even with the Amp getting hotter than it should being Class D,.. it most likely would have been ok in there without this addition, but might as well do something since it's relatively simple.

Finished! -- Went and bought the Kenwood DDX470 and BestBuy couldn't install today.. So I just brought it home and installed it. Here she is done: I really like this headunit.. It has more features for Audio.. Built in Front, Rear, and Sub crossovers active -- Very handy. I love the actual volume knob, attenuate button,.. Phone button etc.. Where I don't have to look away from the road. Still a 6.1" touchscreen and DVD player.. best of both worlds. Bluetooth works excellent,.. It's new for me to have it in my vehicle, so it will get a lot of use. There is a difference in this HU and the Pioneer one though. To get the proper voltages when retuning the amp.. I had to bump the gains higher using this Headunit.. Despite it having 4V pre-outs as the Pioneer had. Particularly the Sub channel.. Sub channel is probably 85% or so now to get it to the level needed. (That's at a 79hz tone.. at 40hz.. the voltage is WAY higher.) The fronts/rears didn't need much of a bump.. about 10% compared to the Pioneer. Sounds great though! And.... she's done! My hands can heal.

Update on Install Log: Fabricated an Amp "mount" from Plywood,.. carpeted it,.. put 1/4" spacers under it,.. and screwed amp into the Fabricated amp "rack" if you will. Have industrial velcro around the lip of the "hole" (where that little box goes, that comes out) inside the glove box.. and on bottom of plywood amp rack.. It holds amp in place VERY VERY well,.. And the upside is any adjustments to the amp are a snap.. I just pull up on it and it comes right off to adjust without removing any panels, screws etc. Plus the industrial velcro is so strong that amp isn't moving even if I slammed on my brakes. I like this solution, it's simple. (I'm going to add a carpeted piece on top of it later today to give me roughly half of my glove box space back, and to protect the amp if I put anything in there. Also got half the car back together.. As you can see from this picture it's very much a "stealth" install.. not one thing shows this has high end speakers, a sub, amp etc.. Here is the Amp on the rack I built, carpeted,.. and tidy'd up -- It's simple, but I think it looks great imho. (Under that amp is a HUGE square hole.. I didn't just screw the amp down to that.. I had to make that (First time doing something like this,.. What do you think?) Broke a few clips on the LAST panel I put in .. glad it's in the rear.. so ordered them off Ebay for cheap for a 25 pack.. Will replace those (and have plenty extras for the future) as I will be removing panels again to add more sound deadener/closed cell foam, etc. Just taking a little break.. Next is the door panels.

Today was the big day to see if all my hard work .. well ... worked! First I decided I should put more sound deadener in the car.. I deadened this entire area and bulk heads.. Plus other areas I didn't bother to take pictures of. And.. it's ALIVE! -- Setting Gains! And.. only other shot I took was of the headunit,.. as I tuned the system in after Gains were set properly. Fired right up! Everything worked flawlessly.. I couldn't believe it It sounds phenomenal,.. way better than anticipated. To get proper voltages for speakers,.. I ended up at 50% on gains for front,.. 50% on gains for rear.. and 60% on gain for Sub. Not too bad. One thing I DID notice was not only did my 90's MB Quarts work,.. but they sounded at least 5 times better than the JBL's. This isn't knocking the JBL components I put up front,.. but Germany did something right with this old set of MB Quarts I have. WOW! To adjust for the MB Quarts being a greater SQ and tone.. I faded to front about 50%.. thus dropping the quarts down about half way,.. this set things up very well for sound positioning. For ME,.. Putting rears in the car does sound better. I dropped the rears, then added them.. over an over.. The sub is absolutely DEAD on perfect,.. It's not too much.. but if I WANT it to be ridiculous .. It's right there,.. with my Bass knob next to me. All in all, I couldn't have done a better job myself... oh wait. -- I'm just being a smart a.ss.. Seriously, I'm a very happy guy right now. Tomorrow is put the interior back in day,.. no more worries of if all my work is going to work! Straight forward job on panels, trim, et al. Wonder what it's going to sound like with the interior back in?

Did the Complete Install (Took about 5 days): Well.. you've probably run across one of my posts in the last month or so while I was researching and asking questions. I've been trying to keep everything in a single thread,.. but since this is the actual build process with pictures I thought it would be appropriate to put this JUST build log into this section,.. could benefit others down the road. I've been working since Friday on this car,.. don't even know how many hours I've put in now, lost count. Anyhow,.. Here's some pics of the car: Car interior stripped 90%: JL 10" sub wired, and mounted into Custom Box: Factory Mids pulled out (Wow, these are terrible!) -- Had to cut them out of their spacer to reuse it with the new Components I bought. New JBL Components successfully in factory spacers (one heck of a job fabricating those spacers to put these JBL mids!) -- And put the 1" tweeter in stock location (had to cut/fab behind that sail panel quite a bit to get them to fit.. but they fit perfect) I Used Rattle Trap Extreme to deaden doors -- Am running out of deadener, and the doors were A LOT better sealed by factory than I anticipated. If you have some recommendations of where else to put the deadener on these doors let me know.. I have a little left. Slot where the Custom stealth Sub box is going,.. Used a ton of sound deadener in this spot.. picture just shows bottom, but it's done up top, sides , etc. Plus there is a 1" rubber mat that is on top of this material, not shown in pic. Rear 6.5" (Late 90's German) MB Quarts installed with X-overs. [i used 5+ sq ft. of sound deadener just up in this area.. that stuff goes fast!] Yes,.. I opted to wire and install a Bass Knob. I KNOW many of you go against the notion of using one,.. but I plan on adjusting it on the fly quite often. So here it is mounted in a discreet "Invisible" location in the center console pop up box (top comes down and covers this). Used Industrial Velcro to mount it (worked fantastic!).. and dremeled below it for the phone cord to come through properly. I think it turned out pretty good: The Custom Sub Box installed (It's downward firing). [This thing was a beast to get installed,.. 3 of the 12 bolts lined up .. So more dremel work with a light sanding bit being very careful with that MDF.] Turned out well though. I'd say I'm 90% done now. I have (not pictured) a carpeted amp rack built to go in the left "glove box" behind passenger seat (which when closed won't be seen).. that's drying right now. Tomorrow I wire the amp up,.. plug in the headunit,.. and pray. If all works, I dial in the amp, then start re-assembling the vehicle. Wish me luck!

Yup, just trying to contribute to the community and internet at large. I couldn't find a solid DIY guide worth much on this particular project,.. so I just figured it out as I went along and decided to do a proper write up. Wish this forum embeded videos, really makes the guide better than the somewhat easy to miss "video links". The big part of the guide is EXACTLY how to cut the OEM brackets/bolts off the factory shocks to use on new shocks,.. as many people get "scared" or unsure of how to do this part. When if you watch my videos and pictures you can see that it's really very very easy.. and fairly hard to mess up as long as you pay attention to what you are doing. I think a Dremel is the perfect tool for this part as it doesn't cut so fast you can't gauge how deep you are (important).. but cuts well fast enough to get the job done fairly quickly. The shocks I bought were a bit pricey because they were Stage 2 high end brand shocks.. at $115 a pair (without brackets of course).. The shocks I bought are more meant for people with crazy wings/spoilers.. but I wanted something that was going to last the rest of the cars life (or as long as I have it anyway)... And they are super strong (easily 3-5 times stronger than OEM) -- and yes, this makes the hatch more difficult to close, but since I kept it reasonable with Stage "2" and not going Stage 3 or 4.. It's nothing that's a struggle or annoying.. If you are shorter (I'm 6ft, (1.83m) 190-195lbs (86-89kg's) and perhaps a woman.. I could see where even these Stage 2's could be a pain in the butt.. As if you couldn't reach the top of the hatch easily .. getting the leverage to pull it down would be a bit of a challenge. Otherwise anyone I'd say 1.73m or taller would be fine. But regardless,.. The guide still serves well even for replacing the shocks that come with the new hardware. For JUST replacing the shocks with hardware ,.. It should literally be about a 10 minute job or so.

[DIY] - How to Remove your Stock OEM Rear Hatch Shocks and Cut and Remove OEM Brackets safely to Re-Use with New Aftermarket Shocks. Install Time: 15 minutes to 45 minutes. It's a very common problem, especially in cold weather;... You open your hatch and it slams back down. Or even worse, you open your hatch, and lean in to get something and then it decides to fall back down on your head. The Stock OEM Hatch Shocks on the 350z just don't last long,.. Aftermarket shocks can be had for well under $100 for a pair that are stronger and last longer. Many of these hatch shocks require you to remove your Brackets and Bolts from the Stock Factory shocks you have to Re-Use to mount the New Shocks onto. Since I could never find a guide that was detailed enough for me I decided to go ahead and make a fairly detailed one myself when replacing mine. This guide will show you how to go about doing this step by step with pictures and videos. Safety First! (Seriously, when cutting the metal, I advise some glasses,.. anything is better than nothing.) Start by Propping your Hatch up with A broom, Spade, Rake, whatever you can find - Even if your hatch stays up you will need this at some point. (This also helps take strain off the upper bolts when removing them.) You will Need a 12mm regular Wrench (Or Small Crescent Wrench to remove the Upper Shock Bolt.) Start by removing Upper Shock Bolts on each side. Remove Lower Shock Brackets with a 10mm Socket. The Shocks will easily come off with the Factory OEM Brackets still Attached at the Bottom, and Factory Bolts Attached at the Top. Old Shocks OUT, Next to NEW Aftermarket Shocks (Notice you will have to cut the old Bolts and Brackets off to Re-Use on the New Shocks.) (You can purchase them with OEM Brackets so you don't have to cut the ones you already have out,.. So, if you don't have the tool(s) to cut metal, or don't feel comfortable doing so, then by all means, purchase new shocks with new Bolts/Brackets. That said, it really isn't hard to do.) Grab your Dremel, Tablesaw, or whatever cutting tool you have and put on your Safety Glasses. Here is a short Clip of using a Dremel with Metal Bit on the Factory Shocks. Cut Down, then across, then Back up to allow the ball to come out. Here is a good look at how I found it easiest to Cut to remove the Shocks from the Factory Brackets/Bolts. You want to be Careful when doing this so you don't cut INTO the Ball on the Bracket/Bolts you will need to reuse. I found it easiest to Cut ALMOST to the ball joint but not quite, then using pliers to remove the cut piece. This ensures you won't damage the OEM/Factory Brackets/Bolts you will need to reuse. Video of me using the Pliers to remove the piece cut just as described above. (It was a bit of a struggle because I was holding the camera with one hand,.. it won't be this difficult for you. ) *Click Image to Watch Video* http://bit.ly/1el3w2h Remove Upper Bolt from your Old Shocks. Remove Lower Bracket from your Old Shocks. Make sure you Prop up the Hatch *high* enough to give adequate clearance when installing new Shocks. Use a 12mm Wrench (Or long 12mm Socket) to Re-attach Upper Shock Bolts. Now Re-Install the Lower Brackets with a 10mm Socket. Note the proper Placement of Lower Brackets. The Upper OEM Bolts and Lower OEM Brackets Re-Installed, should Look like this. First Install Upper End of New Aftermarket Shocks. Second Swing Lower End of New Shocks down to Lower Bracket. (They Easily Pop into place) All Done! -- I used Stage 2 Aftermarket Shocks for a little more Pressure, Here is how your New Shocks should operate to a greater or lesser degree. Here is a Video of it operating with the New Stage 2 Shocks: That's it. Very easy install that makes a world of difference! I chose to go with Stage 2 just out of preference. If you are deciding on Aftermarket shocks and have a factory spoiler, or no spoiler,.. you do not want Anything above Stage 2,.. and Stage 1 replacements are already stronger than the Factory Shocks were. The higher stages are stronger/stiffer and are meant for heavier Spoilers/Wings. If you put a Stage 3 or 4 Aftermarket shock on your Hatch with a Stock spoiler it will be VERY difficult to close. Most people will be very happy with the regular Stage 1. I purchased my Stage 2 shocks at: http://www.350zhatchshocksandmore.com/ Which have Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, and Stage 4 all for $115 US Shipped. (I'm sure they can arrange shipping to UK,.. and if not, I can be a proxy to ship if you want to order from this place, I can attest these are great shocks.) And as an added bonus,.. The owner of this company looked over this DIY, and said he was impressed, and that for anyone who would like a discount on their shock purchase can: When ordering, Put in the Notes -- "Chromatic DIY" and you will receive a discount. (I have no affiliation with this website,.. I ordered mine for full price.) Hope that helps,

lol.. *Hears crickets* -- Either no one wants to read that wall of text.. Or no one is big on Audio installs. I've got it about 99% figured out. If anyone bothers to read this though.. Few questions: 1) I have base model.. (no power seats.. nothing extra).. Which I like actually, especially when removing seats. But, I hear there's a plug under the passenger seat for the airbag. And if you have the battery connected and remove this plug if screws up the airbag sensor.. and such. First is this true? If it is.. What is the recommended way about going about this.. cause seats are coming out! I thought well.. unplug battery terminal,.. then disconnect seat.. leave battery unplugged until I plug the seat BACK in.. But there's always a chance I'll forget about it -- case in example, invariably I'll need something during the install and throw my drivers seat back in.. connect battery and start the car. OOPS.. what happens with that passenger seat airbag plug unconnected with the passenger seat out? Is it no big deal? Or am I going to screw something up in the computer? 2) I was doing to drill small holes under the factory door boot in the door jams to run new speaker wire -- but people have all told me this is unecessary over and over. Now I'm NOT going to run through the factory molex (you know drill it out, file it.. and all that headache.) -- BUT,.. what about running my new speaker wire up to the kick panels and splicing into the factory speaker wiring to the doors at that point.. leaving a few foot of factory speaker wire in the "line" so to speak. Will this be fine powering 100watt RMS per speaker up front? People say yes.. just getting your opinion. 3) You guys know this car.. so I don't need to post pictures. But The amp I bought is the PPI 900.5. Dimensions: 11-1/2"L x 6-1/2"W x 2"H More specs: http://www.sonicelec...PPI-P900.5.html I haven't thought through mounting the amp. I'm putting it in the glove box behind passenger seat. I purposely found a Smaller Class D amp so I'd have plenty of space for fitment and wiring/adjustment. But, can't mount it DOWN in that glovebox cause the gas tank is under there. So,.. You guys have mounted amps plenty of times.. Ideas on how best to mount it in that glove box, while still retaining glove box use? Only thing I can think of is to get like a 1" piece of wood.. cut it to fit.. Somehow (need help here) mount that wood to bottom of glovebox (again not downwards) then I can mount the amp to the wood. And, should I put something on top of the amp so I'm not putting my crap directly on top of the amp itself? Like another piece of quarter inch plywood? (Maybe get fancy with it and put a hinge on the back of it so it can lift up and down to adjust the amp?) -- I could grab some 3M adhesive and carpet the wood , if that's a good idea to use.. Can I find carpet locally from hardware stores.. or is that something I'll need to order online? That's just off the top of my head.. and still don't know how to best mount the bottom piece of wood if I do go that route. Only thing I can think of is brackets on the sides of wood drilled sideways into the glovebox. That seems sort of ghetto though. So any ideas on mounting, screw type.. what to use, etc. Will be super appreciated. That's all for now Thanks

Hi guys, and ladies. I have done a ton of homework and research over the past 3 ish weeks and this is what I ended up ordering to upgrade my factory stereo (I have the base model stereo): Headunit: Kenwood DDX-470 - http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/Mobile_Video/DDX470 Amplifier: PPI 900.5 (5 Channel Amp) - 70Watts RMS x 4 + 270Watts RMS x 1 (Sub) - Precision Power PPI P900.5 (p9005) 5-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier Front Components: JBL MS-62C 6.5" Mids with 1" Tweeters (80 Watts RMS) - JBL MS-62C (MS62C) 6-1/2" 2-Way MS Component Car Speakers System Rear Speakers: MB-Quart QM-160 KX 6.5" Mids with 1" Tweeters (Coaxial) (70 Watts RMS) - No link for these as these are from the 90's, and I had them stored. These are when MB Quarts were made in Germany. Purchased them in 1997 for $400-500. Sub Woofer: JL Audio 10" w0v3-4 (300 watts RMS) - JL Audio 10W0v3-4 W0v3 Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com Custom SRQ Sub Enclosure for the 350z: (10" Enclosure with .66 cu. ft of airspace, covered in Black textured finish, built to order, with Spring-loaded Terminal Cup.) - Nissan 350z Vehicle Specific Sub Enclosure 1-10" Sound Dampening Material: (Versa Kit - 4 Square Feet of Sound Dampening Material) - I decided to get a little Sound material for the doors, as you guys told me it would help with sound quality. -- NVX SDVK4 Versa Kit, 4 Sq Ft of Sound Dampening (1 18"x32" Piece) Wiring: 4 Gauge KCA Power Wire, 4 Gauge KCA Ground Wire, Inline Fuse Holder, with 80Amp AGU Fuse, 17 Foot Bassik RCA Cable with Remote Wire built in, 20 Feet TCA 14 Gauge Tinned CCA Speaker Wire (Gold plated Ring Terminals, and Spade Terminals). - KnuKonceptz KCA 4 Gauge True 4 Gauge Amp Kit Installation Wiring Kit | eBay 2 More RCA Twisted Pair RCA Cables (Total of 6 RCA's) that are 18 Feet. KnuKonceptz Twisted Pair 4 Channel Smoke RCA Cable 20ft | eBay 50 Feet of Kord Kable 14 Gauge Speaker Wire, Polarity Marked - KnuKonceptz Kord Speaker Wire Ultra Flex Blue OFC 14 Gauge Cable 50' True AWG | eBay Any thoughts are appreciated,.. But I have a few questions you could help with. 1) I've SINCE ordering, (figures lol), read that putting rear speakers in the 350Z messes up the sound, and you should only put front speakers in and a sub and that's it. Well, I ordered that 5 Channel PPI amp because I have the pair of 6.5" MB Quart Coaxials from a previous audio system in my 300ZX. I wanted to take advantage of these great coaxial speakers and put them in the rear. Do you think I should just not install the rear speakers? Or do you think I should go ahead and install them as planned and then keep dialing them down as needed. Maybe keeping fronts at 100 percent, and dialing these rears down to like 20-25% ? What would you do? Is it an *absolute* that putting rear speakers in is a dumb idea? The basic of this stereo is front components 6.5" and separate 1" tweeters. Rear 6.5" Mbquart coaxial rears,.. and a JL 10" Sub in a custom sealed .66 Cu Ft. box. 2) I get A LOT of flack for this.. (So please don't bow beat me here ) -- But I'm going to bypass the factory door boots and molex,.. and drill a small hole in each door in the door jams just under the factory door boot, and run tubing and lock nuts to keep it secured and sealed,.. and run my front speaker new 14gauge wire through this.. Which will save me a ton of headache,.. and the main reason, believe it or not, isn't due to laziness but because I just don't want to touch that factory molex as I've read some bad stories about people who've damaged it and ended up with power this and that not working. I have zero problems drilling small holes and then grommetting and tubing them for the speaker run from kick panels to doors through this area. I know it's always best to go through factory boots, but I've made my mind up on this part. But, if anyone has done this before, or has any tips on parts, or ideas on how to best do this. Even just tips on how to easily drill the hole, what tubing to use, or anything else I'll really appreciate the ideas or experience. I figured I would use my dremel and a flex attachment to drill the small hole and enlarge it just enough for the 2 wires per side.. put grommets in,.. then tubing longer than needed (so it doesn't pull when door is fully opened.. Run wires easily through this new location and make a frustrating job a 30 minute job. (I'm making it clean looking, and sealed.) 3) General install bits and pieces. Is there a kit of connectors, female quick connects, screws, ground bolts/nuts/lock washers, shrink tubing, splicing pieces and so on that you could link to me, or even suggest so I'll have all the "accessories" while wiring this up. (As above you see I have the wiring covered, but you always need odds and ends to splice wiring and such.) I've heard the best way is to solder the wire.. I have some soldering experience,.. and tons of solder. I need to go buy a new Soldering iron, mine died. Should I go with a cheap $10 plug in unit, or is there some mid range iron that makes the job easier for soldering connections? I Need a new iron anyways. I've heard crimp connectors are the "Devil".. thoughts on that? That's about all I can think of now.. Thanks!

What's that all aboot, eh? I suppose Canada? -- Thank you.