Chromatic

I am doing the base model to cruise modification with the switches, ECU flash/tune,.. and am looking to buy a cluster which I will send off to get the mileage corrected. However, I am not sure if all the years 2003-2008 will interchange (are the same) with one another on the Main instrument cluster? I have a 2008 Base 6MT 350Z,.. and will be buying a non base cluster (I know to buy an M/T cluster and not automatic, but aside from that not sure if I can buy say a 2003 cluster MT and it work fine?) I searched and couldn't find an answer to this? Thanks in advance,

TL;DR - At Bottom of post. It depends on your setup frankly. ART pipes have the Helmholtz resonators on each one.. Which is a great step forward to reduce rasp -- But everyone has a tiny bit of Rasp if they open up their Cats with ANYTHING. Now, this isn't a bad thing, and anyone who says they don't.. well.. I'd like to hear the exhaust revved to max several times over.. high RPM downshifts etc. This isn't your typical what you think of when you think of a "raspy exhaust".. it's just the slight burble for a split second,.. or other such sound(s) that eminate that aren't a smooth X Hz to Y Hz back down to X Hz. Cheap or just badly designed Catback exhausts have rasp.. A big thing is the combination you put together.. not enough people think about this when they start adding stuff.. and most are like me and add one thing at a time.. Certain catbacks go with certain HFC's and/or Testpipes very , very well with hardly noticeable rasp (hardly noticeable rasp = a GOOD sound.. what you want.. a touch of rasp is sexy.. tons of rasp sounds like a Racecar). Invidia Gemini's + Berk HFC's is a proven combo for sound (and performance) -- As the Gemini first takes the piping and increases, then it removes the Y-pipe to Single pipe to muffler from stock setup to a Muffler to TWO individual pipes to Cats for the "true dual" higher flowing exhaust -- The Invidia Gemini also added in a joint for the two pipes (commonly called an "X-pipe") not just for the heck of it.. but it improves the sound if placed properly and has flow characteristics as well. ART pipes don't go poorly with the Gemini -- but I've talked to at least two dozen people with ART pipes and they "mostly" DO cause an odor. This is not avoidable. ANYTIME you 100% remove your Conversion of Carbon Monoxide, Hydrocarbons and Nitrogen Oxides via Catalytic metals (Rhodium, Palladium, even Gold in some cases) these go unchanged.. Further you have the stoichiometricpoint which is roughly 14.7:1 -- Our cars generally don't run from Idle to Max RPM in all temps, conditions, etc at the stoichiometric perfect point..thus we get unburnt fuel and such gases/vapors in our exhaust.The point is.. And exhaust system is NOT Air/Water tight.. the better your seals, the more you can reduce the odors.. but they will inevitably be present in some amount. This is going to be MOST evident at a stop, at idle.. when the flow of air is at a stand still around the exhaust system. A Tuner who knows what he is doing will adjust the Air/Fuel ratios to all but eliminate the "smell".. but just because you don't smell it doesn't mean it isn't happening.. It's not a rotten egg smell.. it's a smell, frankly, I like (I like the smell of petrol .. go figure).. But what you do or DON'T smell is going to seep into your clothing if you are in your vehicle for any stretch. I would challenge you to take your car on a 4 hour drive in a Suit for work.. get out and have others smell it.. Odds are it will have some odor. Now, I'm not Doubting you.. I bet you don't smell a thing.. And, in all odds your combination is VERY well done, very well sealed.. and doesn't produce any noticeable odor even at idle. I would even go so far to say that on normal commutes your clothes don't even have a hint of unburnt fuel, VOR's,.. etc.. So well done ! You also have a great system combination (you obviously thought this out!) -- The headers I don't ever intend on changing as the power just isn't there in a Naturally aspirated car -- Nissan did well with the factory headers, and moreover aftermarket headers .. 90% of the time are NOT as resilient as the Stock headers. Maybe your car is FI? -- Or maybe you just wanted the whole system done.. and I thought about it myself. . .Beyond that.. You are ART Pipes with the XYZ pipe + Resonator.. and Cobra Mid and Rear boxes (resonated as well) So adding that up,.. Your exhaust system has , ART Pipe HelmHoltz Resonator (1) -- Second ART pipe Helmholtz Resonator (2) -- XYZ so Resonator (3), + Cobra Mid/Rear (Resonator (4) and (5)) -- That's 5 specifically tuned Resonator chambers in your setup ! Your exhaust should be as RASP free as is humanely possible with test pipes Well done sir! I'm not familiar with using a Cobra with the XYZ. When I think of XYZ I think of this: Which is similar to the Dual header to Single pipe back split to two pipes like Stock (non true dual) (But efficient for stock). But the number of resonator logic still applies : So is your setup the Y pipe, back to your Cobra system? For a Dual to Single pipe to Dual again. That was a long winded way to explain the differences.. and that I'm not "wrong" -- but neither are you But basically as my Tuner put it: Basically point being is , as aforementioned, you remove the triple layer metals (ie: Rhodium, Palladium, etc..depending on Cat/year of car), you cannot eliminate these extra "odors" if you will. They exist. In MY mind, I thought, and still think to some extent,.. Well if you seal your exhaust connections WELL enough then exhaust shouldn't be able to escape into the car. This is true to some extent, but just because our tailpipes are at the end of our vehicles.. that smell still comes back into the vehicle.. can't stop it short of having 5 Metre's of exhaust pipe coming out the back of your car In any case -- If you get a chance,.. mind just using whatever is handy.. your phone is fine, and recording your car at idle.. and revved up to 5-6k a few times? I'd like to hear what your setup sounds like (sounds like it should sound phenomenal!)[ TL;DR - We are both right -- And I would very much like to hear your exhaust, mind using your phone and recording it at idle, and revved up a few times? (Sounds like a unique, amazing setup) Take care,

Yeah these are Black.. I'm looking for something in the Aluminum, Silver, Grey, Chrome (or that area of shade).. to dress up the piping/tubing in the engine bay .. Every other car under the sun has these options.. tons of stainless stuff, more chrome stuff.. etc.. But the 350Z has red and blue.. and black (which to me is only noticeable to other enthusiasts/owners as it's the same color as what you are replacing). Unless you meant there are some other options besides the pic in that link?

Thanks for the replies.. Bottom line is no one can really put into words (here or elsewhere) how much louder the Cats will make my system.. And I understand that. The last response I got (from a PM elsewhere) was that the Berk's will make it A LOT louder.. So, I just said, screw it.. lol.. I'm going to buy them now.. put them on and we'll just see! I went with Berk's because it's like everything else.. No one has anything bad to say about them.. they are well made,.. (price also points to that lol).. they are popular.. And from the "majority" -- Berk HFC's with my Invidia Gemini Exhaust will *not* be Raspy.. And not obnoxiously loud. Now, I could be reading reports from a ton of owners in denial hahah.. But,.. this is what I ultimately hope happens. Shop puts on Berk HFC's in an hour (so lower cost install $65-$100 ) and The Berk's increase the "noise" from 3k-top end.. while the already quite loud idle to 3k zone remains roughly the same. That would be the ideal outcome. Because, frankly.. This Invidia Gemini setup needs some help in the noise department from 3k+ (Not sure why no one else mentioned this in the past) - Maybe outside the car it sounds louder than inside at this range.). But.. I got the best deal I could (I haggle like hell lol).. Got an already good Vendor in the US down to $440 Shipped from the Factory to me in the SouthEast US. There isn't another price in the US that comes close to matching that for a new Berk HFC system. So I feel good about price. I'm dangerously close to the Cutoff time for him to get shipped out (it's 3PM CST cutoff) -- And I sent the money at 2:35pm CST.. So they may ship today, or tomorrow.. Not a big deal either way.. as it's Thursday and They wouldn't get here till Monday regardless.. So I expect them Monday.. and next week you better believe I will be getting them installed in a hurry. I found another guy who is further away who is $65 an hour.. Which is $30 cheaper than the guys I've been using.. so Even if it's 2 hours with this guy.. It's not too bad. I do expect since I've pretty much done the ENTIRE exhaust on this car.. it's going to be too loud for resell.. Maybe not? But I've kept my old exhaust, have it packed away safely.. and will keep these cats as well. I know I can recoup a little cost/expense by selling my factory stuff.. but it's just not worth it to me.. I want that option to restore things like this to Stock in the future for whatever reason (you never know). I think my Vendor in the States can't be beat (in the States).. unless you get them for cost from a friend who is a vendor.. $440 For New Berks from Factory (including shipping) is a nice price ya? Out of curiosity.. let's just pretend the Berks make my exhaust just WAY too loud in the Cabin.. (I already have it sound deadened for my stereo system.. but didn't do the hatch area.. so I'll be doing some of that in the future.. ) -- But, if it's just WAY loud.. Is there anything relatively simple you can buy, or an exhaust shop can do to tone down the noise ever so slightly without screwing up the tone? I'm thinking some sort of weld-in Resonator(s).. but maybe there's something even easier. I'm rambling.. and excited about the HFC's.. as it's my final major power adder before the Tune (although I need to replenish my Bank account before that haha).. I'm sure I will be happy with the sound. Ya? I specifically hunted down and asked everyone , everywhere.. "What are the best sounding, least Rasp inducing HFC's?" - - EVERY single response was Berk HFC's! Not doubting you lol.. but while I'm getting the impression any opening of the Cat's (testpipes, HFC's, etc) is going to introduce a hint of rasp somewhere.. that the Berk HFC's are designed to be the LEAST Rasp inducing of the lot (That are well tested and popular). I *ALMOST* bought MotorDyne ART Testpipes.. but you know what really put me off ? The Smell that I hear they would have created.. Noise is one thing,.. having a significant smell that seeps into your clothing from driving your car won't work (not when I *sometimes* have some business clients to see lol).. Plus, correct me if I'm wrong.. Even the super well designed MotorDyne ART Testpipes would have been WAY louder than these Berk HFC's,.. yes? Take care,

I've been scouring the net everywhere.. And I'm not crazy about putting Red or Blue (or black, as it doesn't pop) Piping to replace factory. First I'm looking at putting 2 Post MAF sensor Intake Pipes in (I keep the factory Air box due to the design being good on my 2008 350) -- And All I can find are Red, Blue,.. and an occasional Black. Has anyone run across a set of Chrome, Silver, Grey, Aluminum (or similar) type pipes? Something like this but in Chrome, Silver, Aluminum, Grey, etc.. -- Also, as I go on I'll dress up the engine bay -- So any other colors besides Red/Blue/Black on the radiator hoses? Lastly,.. if there just isn't any other options out there -- On a Silver 350Z.. HR motor , 2008,.. What color do you think looks best (personal opinion I know).. Red or Blue? I'm leaning Blue.. but I can't decide. Because I know whichever direction I start, I'll keep the "theme" per se. Merci Beaucoup

HEY! I'll offer my opinion from across the pond. No worries.. this community is not full of a bunch of Nazi A-holes like some other places you'll find.. Don't be scared to make threads (do search.. but most won't bite your head off here ) I'm sure this has been said -- but I'll say it .. In the HR motors (the ones 2006-2008) That have the VQ35HR instead of the 2003-2005.5 years of the 350Z with the VQ35DE motor -- have DUAL intakes.. but moreover these newer models and redesigned motors have a redesign with the air intakes and boxes. First there are two of them.. (you have one) -- Which honestly just saves you money hehe.. -- BUT, the HR motor cars FACTORY airboxes are connected to the outlet to the bumper so it pulls air from the bumper area and NOT inside the engine bay like the DE motors (like yours). So this makes the choice a bit different. For example I happened to buy a 2008 HR.. having NO idea at the time the 2008 was any different than the 2004 or 2005.. .. So *I* bought two K&N panel filters and put them in the factory airboxes and that's that. Dyno results confirm the panel filters in the factory airboxes gives the best HP increase for the buck.. and many AFTERMarket "CAI" intakes for these dual intake engines actually cause a LOSS of torque/power. But.. you have a SINGLE intake.. And your single intake pulls from the Engine bay area.. So this actually gives you much more room for horsepower improvement over say how my car came. Which is good news. Now.. I would not recommend Panel filters for your car (except if you just want to do SOMETHING but as cheap as possible.. ). Cost is the only reason to really go with panel filter in stock location for your car. Panel filter in your car will NOT change the noise, period. It will *arguably* add power.. but power added from intakes , usually are 1-3hp at best. More on this.. Now if you want SOUND (the hiss/intake) type sound.. My advice is to grab a "Pop Charger" -- Google it. " -- Here: http://lmgtfy.com/?q...ake Pop Charger You DO hear those (unless you have some crazy loud obnoxious exhaust that overpowers it. Now.. those aren't the absolute BEST power makers in the intakes.. but are cool noise.. and can arguably add a horsepower or three. Now if you are interested in ONLY max horsepower -- it's a little blurry. But, I would recommend getting a LONG tube Intake that puts the air filter down in front of your radiator (in the bumper area). Yes, you have to remove your bumper to install this.. not too bad to do.) These intakes pull air from the bumper area (where you have those slits .. and obviously are pulling much cooler air). So you could (with exhaust freeing up the power in the car.. ) get up to 10hp or so from an intake like this. But, they aren't cheap. I recommend the INJEN Long Tube Cold Air Intake for 2003-2006 350Z's -- Looks something like this apart: And installed (with bumper off) will look something like this (but you will only have one, the one on the driver side): That's my recommendation for the *best* power possible. Now cost.. In US Dollars those cost around $290 give or take. (For me it's $500+ cause I have to get two ) Edit: I forgot to mention the "Stillen" Longtube CAI's are equally (and better to some) than the Injens. For example..even with my superior factory airboxes.. I WOULD definitely have put in the Injen intake(s).. but I just can't justify the cost of $500+ for 5-10hp at most.. maybe in the future. Now, not sure about Injen retailers in the UK,.. but MANY companies make these long tube intakes -- So you can find one. INJEN Also beat all the other brands (from many Dyno charts I've researched over the months..) -- Others will certainly disagree with me.. but that's my conclusion. That said,.. Stillen comes in close.. and I *think* (I may be wrong) that AEM performed near the bottom of the "Long tube, expensive, intakes". Then you have the Short "RAM" air intakes that are the same look as the ones above, but stay inside your engine bay.. -- These are cheaper $100-$150 or so give or take.. and some report LOSS of power with them.. many report break EVEN (same as stock) power with them.. and some report 1-2hp. These give you the "noise" though. Anyhow.. Here's a Pop Charger picture for you: Personally.. I think the "Second" best option (money wise) and cool wise.. after Panel filter (which is always the cheapest) -- is to go with a JWT Pop Charger (or another brand).. like above. These cost for this Pop Charger will be about $110 US Dollars (in the UK , not sure.) The sound is a cool sound.. If I had YOUR car.. and not the HR motor.. I would have spent the extra on the Pop Charger for the Looks (it looks cool) and for the cool sound EVEN with no extra horsepower. It's all about how much money you have to spend on no gain, to just a few horsepower at best -- and what you expect/want (Sound? Looks? Max. performance possible? Cheapest option that still helps? etc..) That's my 2 cents.. Good luck with it.

Ah, good reason! Not sure if that's Canada, America, Aussie.. or elsewhere.. But for cash to better your life.. hell ya!

Oh -- And this is what has me really questioning the Sound difference (loudness) after installing Berks. This person has some other Catback on the car in video one (no idea what it is.. don't particularly like it..) -- But DID install Berk HFC's in video two.. and the exhaust is 2-3 times louder in video two after the Berks! I can't have that! lol.. And it sounds raspy.. this isn't representative of Berks on my invidia gemini is it? Video one (before with a perf. catback exhaust of unknown make): Video Two (After Berk HFC install):

Thanks I"ve actually made more videos hahah.. but they are all roughly the same. Got a new battery for this old Kodak camera (that picks up the deep tones better.. but has shoddy image) -- So I plan on doing driveby's and such soon. I'm going to put the Iphone and Kodak camera on the ground somewhere and tape various drive by's and noises I wanted to hear when I was shopping for exahust.. So they will keep coming. My channel on youtube is just really a sound "Log" for me and anyone who looks at it so I can see the differences when I put new parts/hfc's etc on on sound, etc..

Just because when I do things I do them VERY quick (this exhaust could be on in 2 days (and only that long because of shipping time).. So,.. few questions to repeat and add. 1) How much louder (in your own words) will adding Berk HFC's make my 2008 350Z with Invidia Gemini exhaust already on it? 2) How many hours does it take to install HFC's yourself? -- And How many hours does it take (low end and high end) for a shop/mechanic to install them? I was going to add more.. but I'll start another thread for those questions. Thanks guys! and ladies (not sure who is female here with the avatars lol)-- not insinuating any in this thread is or isn't a female.

Aww.. it makes me sad when people are on Zed forums and don't have their Z anymore. You sell it? Crash it? Drive a Ferrrari now? What's the deal?

How much are you paying JUST for the install of the High flow cats? That's my next question.. I'm about 20/80 on Installing myself/Having shop install due to bolt locations. I figure this install will be about 1.5-2 hours shop time at the most.. but I just don't know. I like that you said it's more noticeable above 3000rpms -- If that's the case it would balance out the exhaust.. Because whether people notice it or not.. With the Invidia Gemini exhausts on the Zed.. With my decibel meter the 1000-2900 rpm range is 7dB's louder than 3000 and up. (That's over near 2x as loud!).. And there IS a drone.. but It's a "nice" drone.. it's louder than expected,.. you can't say it doesn't make you speak up between 1500-2900rpm with the gas on (you let gas off and exhaust is silent with most any exhaust).. But, that's fine.. I like it. Any louder and I wouldn't. So if it did not increase the 0-2900rpm noise.. and did increase the 3k-max rpm by even 1-2 dB's (3dB's is twice as loud..) that'd be just about perfect. I hear people say they have testpipes and exhaust systems and can cruise down the highway and not have to raise their voice at all.. I say BS! lol.. the Invidia Gemini is one of the quietest exhausts for the Z.. and at highway cruising speeds you are right in that 2-3k zone (due to this car being a 6 speed) whether you are going 50-60-70-80mph.. (as you hit 80+ I imagine it gets past it.. I don't have higher speeds and rpms memorized , yet ). Anyways.. I'm going to go through with it. I'm buying now! Now what is install cost going to be.. man oh man.. hrmm.

I'm literally negotiating with a Vendor now for the best price on the Berks.. and about to press the button to buy them. So it's do or die! Anyone else here to comment on the noise? Cause you guys are familiar with the Invidia gemini -- and it's fairly loud Inside the car between 1000-3000 rpm -- I know this can't just be MY car.. It's that REALLY deep tone it has.. then right at 2900-3000rpm+ the noise almost goes away to nothing... Be nice if the Berks' didn't increase that low 1000-3000rpm (which IS a drone.. )but made the 3000-7500rpm increase. That's where it needs to increase some. I'm about 99% sure I'm going to buy the Berks tonight or tomorrow.. Just trying to get a little input on noise levels before I do.

Hey guys,.. I recently installed my Invidia gemini Dual exhaust cat-back system.. and love it. It's quite loud at low rpms -- From 1000-2900rpm -- Then it becomes about 3-4 times quieter (not sure why.. but that's the way it seems to run.) I want to do one more mod before I bring my car in for a Tune.. and I've decided on putting Berk HFC's in there (and just leaving the factory headers based on what I've read.) My question is (and I've searched and read for a while about this.. but wanted your recent opinions if you don't mind) -- How much louder will adding Berk HFC's to my 2008 350Z that already has the Invidia Gemini Dual Cat-Back Exhaust make my Exhaust? I'm very happy with the noise level I have now.. and between the 1000-2900 rpm it's actually quite loud in the cabin and you have to speak up to talk to someone.. but it's a very deep smooth sound. Now.. I can handle a TAD louder.. no big deal, probably will like it. I am just about to buy these Berk HFC's today and don't want them to like double the loudness of my exhaust. While I know it's hard to put into words how loud something is, -- But about what can I generally expect from adding the Berk HFC's on my already modified exhaust setup? Appreciate your opinions, advice.

TL;DR (At bottom) Thanks -- The inspiration was a new Zed,.. that the had two speakers working (the front doors) factory (non bose system) that sounded SOOOO bad.. the worst sounding speakers I've ever had in a car hands down. I normally can live with the factory setup in vehicles.. but this was SO bad.. I had to improve it. I could have just bought some low wattage aftermarket speakers and let them run off the headunit and it would have sounded much better -- But... this Zed is my baby now.. and it's as much a constant project as it is my daily driver. So I started doing some research on car audio.. and also went to some local car audio shops.. and asked the local shops what would it cost for just 2 new front speakers, and a SMALL sub in the factory sub location behind the seat. The lowest price quote I got was $1500.. and some shops wanted $2000 for 3 speakers and an amp. Those quotes are what led me to do a TON of research on speakers, amps,.. wiring,.. and the Zed itself regarding wiring, speaker setups etc. -- I figured it I was going to put a single subwoofer in and that would need an Amplifier.. that I MIGHT as well just put all 4 aftermarket speakers in and run an Amp that would power all speakers .. Front mids, Front tweeters, Rear Mids, Rear Tweeters, and the 10" JL Sub I ended up with. And.. I'm one to sort of "over-do" things.. overkill if you will.. I was like.. well if I'm going to have to pull the seats, door panels, and rear panels for the sub.. I might as well pull ALL the panels and run ALL new wiring for everything in the car. -- So I ended up for less than $900 getting all the speakers, amp, wiring, custom Sub box that fits in that factory location -- and the rest was just my time (and research/learning as I went). I knew it would be a monumental task.. but I was NOT prepared for just HOW much TIME it was going to take me. It took me a solid week of work -- I am self-employed and luckily was somewhat slow that week.. so I had plenty of time to work on the car.. I put in 12-24+ hour days depending.. The first day I spent over 24 hours (taking a few breaks) on the car.. And that was primarily getting it all apart.. sizing up and planning how I was going to run all the wiring.. and I *may* have run the main 4 gauge power wire that day.. You should have seen my garage (the pictures above only tell part of the story).. Most people would have been like "*gasp* what did you just do to your pretty NEW car??" lol.. And I'd be lying if I didn't have a little anxiety about getting it all back together in one piece lol. But .. while I ended up tired,.. hands annihilated (you wouldn't believe how beat up and painful your hands get doing this kind of work for days on end).. The end result is a car that you look inside and there is ZERO evidence that it has anything but factory speakers in it (My goal was 100% stealth.. for 1) Not advertising what was in it.. IE: Keeping it from getting stolen.. and 2) I'm more of a "clean" look type of person.. No stickers on the car, just really classy looks.. so I didn't want big boxes in the trunk/hatch with amps and subs like many people DO want to show off what they have.. etc. --- And the sound.. wow! I expected it to sound much better than those pitiful 10watt factory non premium Clarion speakers pictured above.. but my research and work paid off.. This thing sound SO amazing. It's not overbearing on the bass (while I do have the adjustment bass knob I installed that I can turn up to make it sound like the people who go "boom boom boom" down the road a mile away..) -- I keep it about half way.. and with all the mids and highs I put in it's just a phenomenal sound quality with so much more "volume" than I would ever need. It's just what I wanted X 10 .. A super clean , super high quality mid and high speaker sound.. with the Bass handled by a legitimate Subwoofer that would be Quick/tight punchy bass for the mostly "rock" genre I listen to. The DVD player of the headunit was just an afterthought.. but I put in a DVD to test it.. and it sounded SO good (better than good home theatre setups you hear) in that car.. That I ended up watching a 2+ hour movie with the car off IN my garage lol. But,.. I've rambled on enough about it. Yes, it requires patience -- But really,.. the biggest thing is doing your homework/research on what to buy -- pre-planning the wiring/design of the car.. and learning as much as you can about sound/amplifiers and so on to properly set them up.. (IE: Clipping, amplifier gain setup, amp crossover setup.. using DMM's to set gains.. where to set your subsonic frquency, low pass and high pass to keep the bass with the sub and OUT of the mid and tweeters (to keep the mids and highs from blowing).. and keep the HIGHs out of the Subwoofer.. I personally find my best sound for "my" ear is to let them overlap a bit on the crossovers. If you know anything about active crossover settings that will make sense. If you don't have the patience or willingness to teach yourself this stuff -- Then, I'll be honest,.. This setup I have is about a 3000-4000$ sound system -- and a solid 2-3k of that is installation and fabrication time/work. -- If you can find a good reputable shop that does good work.. It's worth every penny of the what may 'seem' initially outrageous cost of say $1000 in speakers, but $1000-$2000 of install cost,.. as I just went through it. I put an easy 100 hours of my own hard work installing this.. And even at $20 an hour.. that 2 grand.. And I was extra careful, and was constantly cutting panels with my dremel and fabricating the car to make it all fit properly in the factory areas. If I had to do this again,.. and I had a shop that did good work (treated your car like their own) I would gladly pay 2-4k for this kind of setup and installation. But in the end.. for $900 and my time I got an amazing sound system that only enhances the experience of the Zed. Though with my new exhaust I , more often than not,.. have the music OFF and am listening to the exhaust .. ironic considering all the work I put into the sound system. -- But I think as the exhaust sound novelty wears off a bit.. I'll go back to listening to the music a bit more. TL;DR -- Thanks! Now that it's done,.. I am absolutely floored with the way it turned out! P.S. -- If anyone needs any advice, help, tips etc on their own Zed sound setups.. or has questions -- Feel free to PM, or drop a line in this or another thread.. I'll do my best to answer.

Yup.. This is fact. They are mirror images of each other sort of.. But, no my "side specific" handles wouldn't fit a Right hand drive.

No no not blaming anyone it was an way mistake to make and luckily not an expensive one. I've asked some of the traders on here if they have a spare one going. I guess you learn from your mistakes Yessir.. I responded to your other thread.. and linked you a guide I've personally used.. It's really, really an easy process to take off that handle you are talking about (takes about 2 minutes at most).. If you bought one from Nissan it would be a solid $60-$90.. But you can definitely get them cheaper as you are already on top of.. especially since you are redoing them.. you are looking for the piece in any condition just solid. I still feel a little responsibility here as I didn't mention that piece and it's something technically needs to come off.. I totally forgot that the handle's lower bolt would restrict that piece coming off on the passenger side. Though there is a certain level of "pressure "when pulling these things off that I stop myself.. and think, ok something isn't right here. And have to look around more.. often going back to the internet and researching how things come apart a bit more. Then again.. I've broken a trim piece on this car using VERY little force.. it had simply become so brittle for whatever reason that there was no getting that off without some voodoo magic without it shattering in a dozen pieces. I've since fixed that of course.. and I had the forethought to order all the clip types our cars take from Ebay a week before I started my removal of the whole interior during my installs.. -- That was one of the best decisions I made. I replaced SO many clips, even found some that were broken already and/or missing. Saw those clips at local autoparts stores for $4+ dollars for one! I ordered a whole bag of them for around that price. In the future I'll be sure to at least go take a glance at my own vehicle before throwing out the "ok" on the procedure being the same on an opposite door, as those few seconds would have saved you a bit of a headache. Really wish I had a spare passenger panel and not just the spare driver panel for you. Hey dude it's cool I've managed to use solvent cement to put it back together and am spraying it with plastidip as we speak. Hopefully as it sets it will cover the cracks! Also even if you did have a spare passenger panel I don't think it would fit my car being a UK right hand drive, but I appreciate the thought let's see what the traders on here can come back with too. I'll get some pics up of my DIY job Judging from how far you've come with it -- I think using some other filler compound you could definitely get that completely filled in no problems..a nd Once it's ON the car.. I honestly don't think you'd need a new piece.. perhaps you can grab some better plastic bonding agent (someone mentioned something in here) -- and get that piece cosmetically looking perfect (you are 95% the way there now). Put it on.. and it will look all pretty and give you as much time as you need to be patient to find a used replacement panel for cheap. Are you absolutely SURE , U.S. pass. panels won't fit? I don't see why they wouldn't? Well.. I guess they might be "reverse" hrmm.. If they did fit.. I would literally find one for you and ship it over to you. This is both our faults.. My fault because I didn't give you the crucial step that takes all of 60 seconds to do.. and your fault for prying on it, and it not coming loose easily.. and seeing that grip/handle in the middle of it and not stopping to go back online to take a look at removing that panel lol! If you are patient.. you can grab a piece like this from someone parting a car, etc.. for like $10-$20 or so. Brand new.. I got my panel from Courtesy Nissan (which has GOOD prices on Nissan parts) -- for $68. So it's not too terribly bad either way. Again,.. though.. figure out what material you need to grab to get those cracks filled (and you may be able to just continually "build" them with the stuff you have .. I"d OVER build.. let it sit over night.. Then come back and sand it down to match flush with the rest.. But you seem pretty handy and like you know what you are doing restoring these things,.. so I'm sure you've already been doing that.

He did check.. And I steered him right with removing his Driver side .. and he got it out with no issues. Then he asked if the passenger was the same way? I STUPIDLY said yes exactly.. without going and taking a quick glance at the passenger.. and I TOTALLY forgot you needed to remove at least the lower bolt of the "Oh **** handle".. and really the whole thing as it puts some pressure on the panel.. and this is exactly why his snapped. I feel bad

Not trying to start a debate here.. but you know the stock airboxes are much better than putting cone filters even with the shields in the engine bay like that. It's very Dyno proven.. The dual intakes with the newer engines vastly improved where the air was coming from by those two holes you see the stock airboxes were going to prior. The stock airbox with drop in K&N (or similar high flow) filters is the second best intake solution aside from an Injen Long tube intake ($550 or so). Many people even report some loss of power with the "in engine" short CAI cones after they go to the dyno and swap them in and out with the stock airboxes and HF filters in the later model 350Z's with the VQ35HR. Now, in the Older engine design.. VQ35DE's -- the intake in the engine were absolutely better.. and of course a GOOD long tube intake that fed air from the bumper area was even better. But I thought all those long tube intakes were the same.. but Dyno tests show that most of them are even power from stock, or a loss.. The only one that consistently pulled more power was the Injen Long tube.. Something with the design, .. as longer tubes, more bends, etc = less air force/flow. But I will say the Cone intakes in the Engines do look very cool. -- And i"m sure you have no intention of changing them lol.. it's just something that shocked me, and I frankly, didn't believe it until I saw a bunch of Dyno results from several people who actually tested all of this out. Now even with all that said -- Your Takeda intakes very well may give you a few horsepower over stock.. only a true base dyno would show that.. and really the variance in dyno results is about what any intake is going to give you.. so it's really, really hard to tell if they are working or not. But it's hard to argue with pulling air from outside the engine in the front bumper area in front of the radiator vs the ambient higher temps inside the engine bay, especially with a hood that isn't vented. Though sometimes the Sound from a Pop charger, etc .. is worth a few horsepower either way (plus or minus)

I'm interested in the same. I have the Invidia Gemini Cat-back exhaust on my 350Z -- and Want to throw on something JUST for some power before my Tune,.. and was recommended Berk HFC's -- but the reports here say they are raspy.. So,.. what HFC's (or test pipes) will not make my Invidia Gemini (and exhaust in general) WAY louder than it is.. and won't change the smooth, zero rasp tone it has? I've considered Test pipes like the ART's.. but I've also heard they cause a strong odor which will come into the cabin of the car (this true).. I see a bunch of people throw on Test pipes and then have them up for sell weeks or months after putting them on.. there's a reason for that. I'm at a PERFECT sound now with this catback.. so I'd like something that is for power adding only (before I get my tune) that doesn't rasp period, and if it's going to do anything I can't avoid merely makes the exhaust just a tad bit louder (be nice if it didn't change anything.) I'd rule test pipes BACK IN if they don't cause the odor. As the CEL I'll get turned off with the tune. Thanks!

I have a 2008, VQ35HR motor of course.. and Nissan took out some of the "few" bolt on's we could to the car by making it more efficient. lol. So no Spacer.. The fact is.. there just aren't many Bolt ons you can do to an HR.. and frankly to the 350 of the older motor or newer one. Or let me put it another way.. the bolt ons you can do.. which are all crazy expensive just don't net much horsepower. You could easily spend 8,000 in bolt ons and get maybe 5hp per 1,000 if you are lucky. But I'm not complaining.. just searching for something I'm missing really. Now as for the VQ35HR motors with the Dual intakes. I've done a TON of research on the CAI's vs. Stock box in airflow.. and there's really only one intake that beats the Stock airboxes on these newer designs.. and that's the Injen Long Tube kit.. (remove your front bumper to install this one). The BEST bang for your buck that DOES gain HP (let's be honest ANY CAI is only a few HP on a stock car.. with all breathing opened up you can get above the 10hp mark.. but that's with intake manifold, piping, Headers, Test pipes (or HFC's I suppose),.. and full dual exhaust from there. Point I'm making here.. is more than one CAI (several hundred dollar) kit actually makes zero gains, and on some Dyno's cause a loss of hp. Imagine that.. bolting on a CAI and losing power! lol.. So definitely go with something to free up a little bit of air -- And again, for the money -- with our Dual intakes and much, much better designed airflow in these 07-08 cars.. (pull air from beyond the engine compartment) grab two K&N drop in Panel filters (direct replacement for OEM).. and be done with it. If you want to get a few more ponies,.. Go with the Injen Long tube dual Intake kit.. but the price doesn't justify the gains in "my book". Sub $100 for drop ins for 2-5hp (at best).. Or $500+ for maybe another 3-6 hp plus removing your front bumper (also have to remove that bumper each time to clean them.. must think ahead. . Exhaust, hrmm.. I'd grab a Cat-back for sure. They are louder.. but get a reasonable one like the one I just put on.. the Invidia Gemini -- Which from my experience is only noticeable louder at Idle and up to 2600rpm or so.. It's deep,.. but the tone shifts dramatically past that 2900 or so RPM mark.. Outside the car it's louder at any RPM range.. but it's not anywhere close to obnoxious loud. As for other bolt ons.. I'm struggling myself to find some that give even 5-10hp .. Besides something like Pulleys, which make things like the Alternator , AC Compressor and so on move slower and I don't want that at all. You can get a light weight crank pulley and so on.. but not sure how much that is going to help. I remember when I had my Mustangs.. $1000 would get you 30-40horsepower.. and there were half a dozen "free" mods you could do for another 10-25hp.. I guess I was spoiled on that non import, V8 that had a great deal of room to make "more efficient".

Are you sure it's THE stuff?

No no not blaming anyone it was an way mistake to make and luckily not an expensive one. I've asked some of the traders on here if they have a spare one going. I guess you learn from your mistakes Yessir.. I responded to your other thread.. and linked you a guide I've personally used.. It's really, really an easy process to take off that handle you are talking about (takes about 2 minutes at most).. If you bought one from Nissan it would be a solid $60-$90.. But you can definitely get them cheaper as you are already on top of.. especially since you are redoing them.. you are looking for the piece in any condition just solid. I still feel a little responsibility here as I didn't mention that piece and it's something technically needs to come off.. I totally forgot that the handle's lower bolt would restrict that piece coming off on the passenger side. Though there is a certain level of "pressure "when pulling these things off that I stop myself.. and think, ok something isn't right here. And have to look around more.. often going back to the internet and researching how things come apart a bit more. Then again.. I've broken a trim piece on this car using VERY little force.. it had simply become so brittle for whatever reason that there was no getting that off without some voodoo magic without it shattering in a dozen pieces. I've since fixed that of course.. and I had the forethought to order all the clip types our cars take from Ebay a week before I started my removal of the whole interior during my installs.. -- That was one of the best decisions I made. I replaced SO many clips, even found some that were broken already and/or missing. Saw those clips at local autoparts stores for $4+ dollars for one! I ordered a whole bag of them for around that price. In the future I'll be sure to at least go take a glance at my own vehicle before throwing out the "ok" on the procedure being the same on an opposite door, as those few seconds would have saved you a bit of a headache. Really wish I had a spare passenger panel and not just the spare driver panel for you.

I have a driver side one to spare.. but my passenger one was in good shape and came off quite easily when I was doing my speaker install a little while back. But I've had pieces/trim pieces snap on me .. well just one.. Sometimes it happens.. they can get brittle and aren't exactly super strong to begin with. In hindsite I suppose I should have made it clear to remove the door Handle" (just two bolts).. before prying it off. You can blame me if you like.

Sure the interior 'grip" or (oh *** handle) on the door must come off if you are removing your door panel (which you aren't). But.. here's a good write up on removing the door panel with pictures.. just follow the first few steps to remove that.. should give you a good idea of what you are working with. http://my350z.com/forum/audio-video-and-electronics-diy/407151-2008-door-panel-removal-front-speaker-install.html Nothing should "snap" though.. -- The switch cover will make popping noises as it comes out of the clips/slots.. but nothing should break. Let me know if you need any more help with it.