davey_83

Z meet at non other than Z1 Motorsport

Pleased to update the thread, some 8 months later left out in all conditions and it's still on. I've since added Suntek PPF the to protect it from UV damage.

JDM window switches, an upgrade over the UK cars which only have auto drivers side. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385384187927?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vSR3qSaARoO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UVSJOLRJSwe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Absolutely love all you updates!! She must drive so tight now too. Very very clean under there also which I can appreciate. That O/S banana arm put up a good fight!!!

Officially the forums No.1 wheel whore!!! I love the look of the facelift Z34 wheels fitted 👍

I like Michelin tyres 🙋🏾‍♂️

Today's quick common issue fix 👍

The Y section on your exhaust sadly isn't interchangable. 2 options to make the exhaust quieter, have the OE cats put back on or have an exhaust shop fit bungs to the tailpipes. Bungs are detachable for days when you want more volume. https://www.mijexhaust.com/product/exhaust-universal-db-killer-back-box-baffle-tip-removable-silencer-bung-s-steel/

I would normally update my build thread however, think this might be of wider use as information tends to get lost among pages and pages of chat. Ever since ownership the driver's seat controls have been temperamental. Sometimes the motor would seem to work after a couple of attempts at the switch or holding the switch for a while or sometimes not at all. Not a huge problem as once the seat is in the correct position, there's little reason to ever move it. So yesterday the seat decided it'll only tilt forward and not back, great. Sometimes I'd have to operate it for a moment in forward tilt and then it'll move back, but no. 1st action, check for any obstruction under the seat that may have knocked a plug loose. Followed the loom from the switch to first plug disconnected and reconnected. Checked the plugs to the motors and using a power probe seeing simply 12v would feed one pin at at time to operate either backwards or forwards - all seems fine. 2nd Liqui Moly spray grease the switch as might be some contaminate I needed to dislodge. Still no joy and left it at that as it was getting late, working via torch. Started looking around for a replacement switch as couldn't see anything untoward post switch. Then came across a YT video from a few years ago of a fella using fish tank silicone hose to bulk out the triggers in the switch. The next day (today) after stripping down the switch itself discovered the triggers themselves do in fact operate the motors just fine. Checking in the tat draw (every kitchen has one) came across a packet of wall plugs that looked just the right size. Cut a few mm of the end to make collars and the size was perfect. Held in place by my head assistant 😄 Years and years of grime and now lube If those tiny little prongs don't contact the triggers enough, motors won't operate. Ends cut off ready Two with and two without for comparison Built all back up and works perfectly!! No hesitation at all now and fixed for free 😁

Few out this morning at PHSS

Few from this morning's PistonHeads meet

Very nice indeed, all the best with the sale

Yeah definitely. I remember old Almera GTi whereby the front hub assembly had two nut and bolts one on top of the other which held the MacPherson strut. The top mount for it had elongated holes and you could easily add camber to one side in error. You would have to pull the hub outwards and nip the nut up to get a neutral position. Ever since then I knew slight changes in camber can affect steering alignment. On the rear of the Z I raised the passenger side a touch which would have reduced the camber. All part of the fun with adjustable suspension.

Car ever so slightly pulls to the left with steering wheel off centre to the right, so this morning planned to take it down to my local Kwik Fit for wheel alignment. Before doing so thought it prudent to fine tune the ride height and check tyre pressures. Measurements from the bottom of the alloy to top of the arch were in cm NSF 59.5, OSF 59.6, NSR 60.1 & OSR 60.4 Figured one turn needed on the passenger rear to level out the back, which should also dip the drivers side front also ever so slightly. Very close fit when jacking up from the rear. Opportunity to check as it's been a couple of winters since fitting the suspension, still very clean and tidy with no moisture build up at all. Releasing the tension on the lock ring and it turns by hand. Wipe down of the exhaust also while it was up. Headed out this morning to be one of the first in the queue and surprisingly the car tracks true. Steering wheel straight ahead and on a flat surface actually hard to find, no pulling - result!! As it was off

Would honestly rather the new Z. Of those above: Ugly, I'm not going to an urban wedding, girls car and couldn't afford to run it.

Actually very cool

We can but dream right 😁 Exhaust, suspension, wheels/tyres and I'd be happy for a bit.

So like SOHO Motorsport

No welding needed, that's why you can't find any information on it 👍

Ello n welkom

The strut brace had elongated holes on the one side

👍 looks good

Sideways Sid in action 👌

Ello n welkom

Nice one lads, keep it going 👍 1. davey_83 2. pintopete58 3. George1966 4. Rhysos 5. Headphones 6. Monkey1983