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I changed my speakers and used the old wiring first. It was a little better but nowhere near as good as when you amp them all up I'll see if I can find some pics of when I did mine so you can get an idea of what to do.

Best to strip out all the interior panels, centre console and seats for ease.

Are you referring to the coupe or roadster? I have installed a 5-channel amp with new cabling and speakers in my coupe. I had a few days off so I decided to strip out all the panels and seats out etc to do all the cabling easier and put in some silentcoat at the same time. Was a bit of a ballache to get the speaker cables to the door speakers but other than that it was fairly easy, just a little time consuming. I bought a custom sub box for the boot and installed the amp in the old bose sub cubby. Cables ran from amp to HU down the centre. Power down the passenger side from the battery. Both door speaker cables down the sides.

On the coupe they are the same size. Not 100% sure about the roadster but I would assume they are.

I think you will need to get new cables if you have a fairly powerful amp. The cabling to power the matchbox amp for the bose sub is fairly small gauge from what I remember when I installed my 5-channel amp. Loads of places you can attach a ground cable to if you are installing it behind the seat in the stock position. You can run your remote cable through the centre console to your HU easily enough.

I've noticed it takes about 100miles before it comes back on with mine.

I ordered some from Ewen the other day. Fitting mine tomorrow.

I have a Pioneer AVH-8500BT installed with the ICT harness. On random occasions I find that when I'm changing volume it skips a track instead. I just put this down to a glitch with the harness. It only happens on rare occasions so it doesn't really bother me. If yours is doing it all the time I would have thought it was the wrong steering wheel patch cable but if it did it on the old BOSE HU without the ICT harness then maybe not. Will be interesting to see if others have similar issues. Hope you manage to get this sorted

Fitted these over the weekend and they look great Thanks for the quick delivery and keep up the good work

PM Sent

Wow! Loving that bay

I think my brother was telling me about this the other day and he said he thought it was good. Seems a bit pricey if you have to pay $15 a month to play it though. Thats like one less Mod a year for the Zed

I like to support our members

Second dibs if benjy88 changes his mind

I use it to clear EML when it comes on because of my HFCs.

I bought a full Miltek system. Its not very loud but is a nice upgrade from standard. That may be a bit over budget though. Then if you want a bit more noise at a later date just add some Berk HFCs.

I think BT actually send you a new face plate for free if you contact them. A guy at my work had the same issue a few years ago.

+1 for JWT Popcharger for value and noise Probably not the best if you are wanting to bling your engine though. I think I saw someone selling a Takeda Intake in the for sale section the other day. Maybe worth seeing if that's still available as I think it was a good price.

Hi Asad, Could you let me know if you have any of these in stock and drop me a PM with payment details etc. Cheers

Treat yourself to a little torque wrench and fit it yourself, it only takes about an hour. I don't usually mess with car engines when it comes to mods but doing this was easy. I haven't had mine remapped yet and I can say that there is a difference even when standard. The revs seem smoother and the car idles lower.

I dont believe it stores it but I could be wrong.

I think you may be able to get all this info using an app like Torque through an OBDII adapter.

A while ago I had a similar issue with my old RX8 that had been stood a while. It started up fine and the temperature, battery and oil gauges were all fine etc but the EML was on and I couldn't go over 2-3k revs. I thought it was going to be a pricey fix but it turned out to be my battery at fault. I tried recharging it overnight, put it back on in the morning, started up fine but still wouldn't go past 2-3k revs. So I decided to order a new battery and swap it out. This resolved the problem straight away. Not sure if it is going to be the same problem you have though as I didn't have a fault code reader at the time, but thought I'd throw it out there in case you have a spare working battery you can try.

My thoughts are you should leave the K&N air filter get a JWT Popcharger intake so you have more roar

Thanks. Will give that a try and get a few quotes.