glrnet

Bugger! Glad you are both physically ok. Chin up bud, you've lost a car, you can replace that.

20mm drop and 19's with no issues.

*their

I really must do this next year. Go to Le Mans I mean

Top job Dan!!!

Hello stranger!!

Well, no one has PM'd me and I finally have some time to write a few words having done some miles on the new setup. You can see the fitting and how the car looks now on my build thread on P26 http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58750-how-to-smurfadise-a-zedsplitter-repair-p27/page__st__500 Firstly, as someone has mentioned this already, I haven't yet fitted the extendable rear adjusters. Anyway onto the important part, initial thoughts at installtion were if they perform as well as they look then I'll be a happy bunny, Keyser and Bob who fitted them agreed they did look well engineered. No serious problems with the installation other than the usual obstinate Nissan bolts!! After much banter from Bob who celarly wanted me to "slam" the old girl we settled on a drop of 20mm all round, I have 19 inch wheels (no spacers) and there is absolutely no rubbing and no need to have the rear arches rolled which I really wanted to avoid. On the drive home from the Zed Shed I decided to take the A31 and have little play, nothing too arduous as the 4 wheel alignment hadn't yet been done but it was clear the car felt much improved and far more confident in corners, it was pretty good previoulsy as I have adjustable Motordyne ARB's fitted. Since then I have had the 4 wheel aligment carried out at Kaizer Motors, the rear camber is now -1.4 both sides (was over -2.0 both sides) and is bit more than I prefer so I'm going to have adjustable rear camber arms fitted just to preserve tyre wear a bit more. I've had a chance to push the car a bit now and I'm really pleased with the overall outcome, I have the damper setting at exactly half way between hard and soft for the time being, there are 32 clicks or notches between soft and hard, pleasingly those clicks are easy to feel through the adjusters. In summary the car feels a lot more sure footed and balanced in corners and I'm looking forward to getiing on some local B roads with a slightly harder setting. All in all money well spent as far as I'm concerned.

Sorry i've not commented for a while, just to pick up on something mopedmark said, you definitely have an intake "suction" noise when you are revving the car. How long have you ahd the car? Take the air filter out and see if the previous owner has drilled holes in the bottom of the air box, I've heard of this before to create the suction noise effect you have. I'd check the WHOLW air in take system for leaks if I were you. Just a thought, anyway hope you get it sorted mate.

How many times have we spoken/seen each other since Chrimbo!!! And everytime I've been peeing myself because you had NO idea, must've been bonkers for Netti, Chris and Mrs K Sorry we can't make it but welll done iBishop for sorting it.

Happy Birthday Lyndzzz

He was never that good!!

Oh dear this could get messy Top effort Andy

Oh my aching sides

Respect

Sometimes it's best to walk away for a while

You need to carry out the ECU reset and the throttle idle learning position again properly i think. ECU Resetting Procedures Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. Operations Procedures 1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 second. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to ?OFF? position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Operation Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Operation Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is ?ON?. 3. Turn ignition switch is ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. Operation Procedures 1. Perform ?Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning?. 2. Perform ?Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning?. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

You need to drag the head unit out again, there's not much space behind the HU, my guess is you've dislodged a connector.

Ah memories my dad had one of these, with I think it was called an overdrive button on the gear knob. Not sure though ? Cool for a young teenager though. Haha Yes Shezza, it had overdrive on 3rd & 4th gear...... the cats ass in its day! Yup, had that on my MGB GT, proper chrome bumper and wire wheels!! Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear

Well that's all the good weekend driving time gone then! Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear

If that old Zed with the V8 is still laying about when the new Zed Shed is finished we thought we could cut the roof off and use it as the rest room sofa - like they do in the American diner's on Route 66 or turn into a Zed pick up truck!! Lol Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear

Render or brick, render or brick! Sorry!! Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear

Oh the shame Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear

I believe you can now register mobile numbers for tps I didn't know that. Thank you

My problem is these are all calls made to my mobile.