Randy_Baton

When you do drive it how long do you drive it for? have you tried charging the battery, if so long how long did it take to fully charge.

Plenty of threads on the topic already http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/31107-service-schedule-for-a-350z/page__st__40#entry1158579

Didn't they used to do this but in actual go karts? I remember seeing it a few times on Eurosport probably ~10-15 years ago though. Think it was called something like king of the track, possible had other motor sports involved. Think this might be it - I can't open youtube at work, so I'm going on the google description!

The lights inside a fairly big case, so I'm not to worried about the connection being outside. I just wasn't sure how to actually wire it in. I was hoping there might be some form of bayonet adapter, but apparently they are illegal. I'm only talking a couple of meters of lights. Your probably right though, I should see if the back doors got enough room to fit some wires under it so I can plug it into the socket by the door.

If I have an outside light already installed in my garden, is there a way to take out the bulb and wire in a set of outdoor fairy lights into the light socket somehow?

For reference I've got GTX970 Ti FTW (EVGA) (mid range, last generation) and its perfectly fine for most games on ultra settings (1080p not 4k, but I think 4k is overkill) and VR works fine and probably will do for the next generation. The VR renders brilliantly when shown on my PC its just the pixel density of the headsets thats the issue.

Build it yourself, working out the quirks is half the fun. If you took all the components out of the pre-fab and priced it up I'm sure it would be cheaper to buy the parts yourself. What you'll find with cheap pre fabs is that the headline components may be decent but the rest of it will be cheap tat. Ebays very good for second had parts. I spent ~£900 on mine 2 years ago and can play most things on ultra and have a 7.8 rating out of 10 for VR.

Instructions: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/32500-how-to-remove-the-steering-wheel/

So, got a Vive over the weekend. The experience is amazing but anything ~2 meters away gets a bit too blurry for me. Think its probably 2-3 generations away from being excellent. Its still a pretty amazing experience though. I brought mine from Ebay with the intention of selling it on in a few months so hopefully won’t loose more than £100 and may not even loose anything. That moment when you go to lean on something only to realise that it’s not a physical object and you have no idea what part of your actual room your in and what your about to crashing through…. LOLZ

I'd say regardless of the make go for John Lewis, twice now I've basically had a new TV in the 4th year due to a very minor faults. Their 5 year warranty is amazing although you obviously don't get another 5 year on the replacement TV.

Just thought I'd throw this out there.... Have you checked for any obstructions under the bonnet. I've noticed this twice on mine and each time I'd left something under the bonnet - usually the battery cover.

You have to take the steering wheel of and I think it has security screws on it, you've also got to be careful to not set the airbag off. But its totally something the home mechanic can tackle.

If you all get 5 each then you could fashion a rear louvre (or how ever you spell it!)

No, but its seems to be gone today. Maybe a restart cleared it up.

On a DE the gearbox doesn't need to come out to change the slave not sure about a HR though. Is the car still on its first clutch. If it is and the gearbox does need to come out then you might as well change everything. That £900 the quoted better include a new clutch and flywheel though. If it doesn't then they are having a laugh. I paid roughly the same amount for new slave/clutch/flywheel and labour. Where about are you located?

I actually found amazon to be cheapest for a few components...

I've run malware bytes and full scanned with my VP (AVAST), but I'm still seeing it. It only appears to be this forum and only when viewing a topic.

Take your own fluids, that way you can be as sure as can be that they've used the right stuff and you won't have to pay the garages mark up either. Even if they use 'the right stuff', there are multipule brands and types of 'right stuff' so its better for your piece of mind and wallet to provide it yourself. Clark Motorsport or Opie oils will tell you what you need to get fluid wise and will have it all in stock. You can also get the other things you need for a P3 (spark plugs/air filter/ belts) from Clark Motorsport. Although to be honest you can just get the engine oil (5w30 fully synthetic) and coolant from Halfords.

The right ~5% of the screen has an invisible overly on it so if I click anywhere covered by it, it directs me to http://main.exoclick...TYxNzBiYzhhMw== which bringsup https://offer.alibaba.com. Its not appearing on this screen (the create topic screen) but was there when I was using quick reply on the MTB thread and is appearing on other threads. I'll run malware bytes etc. on my machine but I've not noticed it on any other sites. On full screen (widescreen monitor) the overlay covers ~50% of the grey column on the right. I only notice it beacuse I had my browser window a lot narrower and the overlay was covering the quote button.

It stops mud/water from the front tyre being flicked up in front of you, which you have to then cycle through, so it goes right in your face. I road without one on the other day after it had rained, its amazing how much surface water you flick up. Put one straight back on, never again....

Paint/Dip/Wrap the panels and find a company to provide stickers for the controls (if you've got a DE, on a HR the control labels are on the buttons so it shouldn't matter). Its something I've been meaning to do for a while. If you find somebody to provide stickers it may be worth doing a group buy. I think you need transfers rather than stickers though. You can get second hand ones from plenty of traders on here, new ones would be from Nissan. I think this is what you need in terms of transfers: http://www.approved.co.uk/StandardDryTransfers.html ~£50 for an A4 sheet +£15 delivery!, you could probably fit 50 on a sheet. It might be something I think of doing over the winter (but don't depend on me...), the place I linked to is 20 minutes away from me so I could cut out the delivery charge.

I I did some googling around this and in particular the cruise control flashing and it seems there are loads of people with similar symptoms but different causes. It sounds like the ECU is putting the car in failsafe mode. You need to figure out why that is. From what I can tell it could be (but not limited to) any of the below: Broken MAF Clogged CATS High Alternator output (increased Volts tripping ECU into failsafe) Voltage spikes caused by something else Damaged wires leading into the ECU Broken ECU

When the ECM detects any of the followng conditions, the ECM will cancel the cruise operation and inform the driver by blinking the indicator lamp. -Engine cooleant temperature is slightly higher than the normal operating temperature, CRUISE lamp may blink slowly. When the engine coolant termperature decreases to the normal operating temperature, CRUISE lamp will stop blinking and the cruise operation will be able to work by pressing SET/COAST switch or RESUME/ACCELERATE switch. -Malfunction for some self-diagnosis regarding ASCD control:SET lamp will blink quickly

The right angle step up in colur looks out of place on the rear and the front needs some orange on it.

Can't decide if it was staged or not