Randy_Baton

It's probably an automatic dialer. To get the best efficiency out of their call centre they'll dial more people than they have agents on the phone, as in all likelihood only 1/3 of people will pick up. If you answer the phone and there isn't an agent available, the auto dallier will hold you for a few seconds in case an agent comes available and then hang up on you. It's standard call centre practice, but they are only allowed to hang up on 3% of calls answers.

I've got my old set in the loft, they'd be a bit of a pain to post. Pick up from Brighton or maybe Birmingham

A bit harsh, not the best way to ask for help around here. The guy has sold his 350z I'm surprised his still around here answering questions. I think the instructions were included in the package rather than emailed. I had a look through my emails before posting the wiring diagram and I don't have it.

Maybe he didn't know new tires were slippery until reading this thread, which happened after the fact.

Cougar Store in Leicester would be your closest specialist http://cougarstore.co.uk/

wow might have to take a look at these , our DD is £121 pm if the savings compares thats significant Is your DD based on actual reads or estimates?

A smart meter won't stop you switching, all that will happen is that if you have a SMETS1 or Trials meter and you swap suppliers it will revert to being a dumb meter. You'll be in no worse a situation than you are now, you'd just need to provide manual reads or wait for a meter reader to come round. If its a SMETs 2 meter than in about 6 weeks time you shoudl be able to swap suppliers and keep it in smart mode. Also electrcity prices bottomed out a few months ago so it unlikly to be cheaper to switch for a very long time. ~10% increase to standard electrcity tariffs are due in the next 6 months, these increases are already being built into fixed tariffs.

I should also point out that if you get one now you may need to get it replaced at some point in the future as not all meters will be compatible with the future infrastructure. From mid 2017 all installed meters will be compatible but right now that isn’t the case. If you’re getting one soon, you want it to be SMETS2 compatible otherwise it will lily revert back to a dumb meter if you change suppliers and you’ll need it replaced at some point in the next 4-5 years.

There are a number of reasons they are being pushed out: 1. Accurate billing - Most people don’t submit their own meter readings and rely on the meter reader coming round every 2 years or so. This means the majority of bills are estimates, this leads to a lot debt. The more debt there is the more debt gets written off, the cost of which is spread across everyone’s bills. 2. Consumption changes pt1 – Being able to see how much energy costs in real time should help reduce consumption and in turn reduce peoples bills. Energy is a quite an abstract thing, so increasing engagement is a good thing as people become more aware of the energy they use they’ll hopefully use less. 3. Consumption changes pt2 – Energy costs suppliers different amounts at different parts of the day but most people are on a flat rate. There will be a move towards more time of use tariffs where the price paid differs dependant on the time/day/season. The end goal of these is to reduce the peak demand by shifting peoples usage period. This is a long term goal obviously if you’re not in and/or your house doesn’t have any storage devices it’s not going to help much. 4. Smart homes – The meter will be able to talk to appliances, and vice versa so it forms an intergral part of the future smart home ‘internet of things’ etc. 5. A move to Prepayment – Prepayment will become the main payment method for most. Smart allows in home pre-payment I.e. you can pay over the internet rather than take a physical key to the shops. This will remove the need for the paypoint infrastructure which adds additional costs and limits the number of tariffs available. Basically every tariff will be available for PPM and PPM will be as cheap as DD. If you’re not thinking of getting one, you can refuse, but you’ll eventually end up paying a lot more as it won’t be cost effective to keep supporting old meters. As the customer base will be tiny suppliers won’t feel the need to target these customers.

I should alo point out that I used dynamat all over the boot and also have 1 rubber underlay and 1 foam carpet underlay in my boot. I measured the sound differnce on my phone and didn't notice one bit of differences

As above. its really simple. I started witht the boot deal then the piece of trim at the back of the boot (where the light is). The light just pops out. Once you've gpot one piece off the rest should come off in a fairly logical order.

I usually keep all the instructions for things like this, but can't find anything other than this. Cookbots instructions are here, I know its not an identical process but is some of it the same? I seem to remember looking at it when I had issues. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/44722-how-to-fit-cookbot-auto-folding-wing-mirror-module/

I guess one of the issues is if you declare each mod as you do it you end up haveing to pay to update your insurance details when ever each mod is done. Makes it worthwile saving up and getting afew things done at once. But as everyone else said its pretty pointless to not decalre something.

The YouTube kid TJ hunt has just brought a 350z for drifting - he fitted some neo tints to his headlights, then found out they turned his headlights red.... He actually purchased red tinted ones on purpose to match his car colour .... #lolz

are the scratches in the the door windows and vertical? its a known issue, don't think i've heard of anyone being able to get them out

I did the same thing, you can't close the doors whilst your spraying the handles as you won't have a handle to disengage the door mechanism. I brought a second hand pair off here and sprayed them up. Then took my old ones off and installed the second hand painted ones at the same time. Then sold my old ones on here for the same price as I brought the second hand ones. If you fancy spraying the wing mirrors black at the same time I have my old ones for sale. It shouldn't cost you anything other than postage, as you'll be able to sell your old ones for the same price as you buy second hand ones.

Rear 1/4 is double skinned so they need to drill a whole in the door frame to get to the back of it. If its on the wheel arch fold you'll need a body shop to get it perfect.

If you go through ASDA theres a 10% discount code. I used it about a month ago but picked up the code from a thread that was a couple of years old, so think it will still be valid. There was recent thread on the topic here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/109294-best-mpss-prices/

Drove my car somewhere and didn't notice anything different, but then got back in in a few hours later and the noise below 3000 rpm is deafening!. Theres no rattle its the same noise just louder and basier. A right old drone... As soon as I get above 3000 rpm its back to normal. I've got a cobra resonated exhaust with all the pieces up to the cats. Not sure when it was put on but I've had the car 3 years so have probably put ~8k miles on it. I do find the cobra really droney anyway but the noise has picked up a lot. Anything I can check myself before handing it to a garage?

Luckily, I've got a cobra exhaust so in order to hear the radio I have turn it up anyway

That explains your username then!

Its the same noise all the time, so it'll be there in the background what evers going off. Obviously wether you noyice or not depends on the loudness of you exhust and the tunes your playing...

I've wondering about this myself. Any one tried to pull them out themselves? it cant be that hard can it?

Make your own all it is is wire and connectors - guide here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/65948-how-to-make-a-grounding-kit-vq35de/ Or Horshams are available here: http://h-dev.co.uk/product/h-dev-350z-grounding-kit/?v=79cba1185463