Randy_Baton

I haven't asked them to match yet but there initial quote was £100 more. Are the tyre sizes in my screen shot correct? Its confused me as they didn't come up as 350z compatible.

I got my last set from Asda. I need to get some form my next MOT. Do we still have a discount for them? Last time I brought tyres it was 140 then 7 random digits for a 10%discount Oddly I typed my reg into the ASDA site and they didn't show any Michelen tyres but if i navigate to MPS5 tyres they seem to have the right fitment. These are correct aren't they?

Yes they are the OEM ones. I spoke to the owner seemed way more knowledgeable then the person i spoke to on the phone yesterday, he thinks its an air leak pre cats. Its a high lambda fail so too much o2, and as such shouldn't be a CAT issue? They smoke tested it with a wet rag in the exhaust and plugged a few leaks which brought it down, but its still a fail. Oil hasn't been changed for 3 years but its only done ~5k in that time.. I've hardly had to drive since lockdown started. I usually get it done as part of the MOT, so I'll get the next garage to do that first. It also needed the spark plugs and air filter changed (I just did the air filter and the old one was fine), presume sparks wouldn't be an issue (or they'ed show up in the codes). They are getting reads from the sensors so don't think its that, but could they still be dodgy? A couple of week ago my battery went flat and when trying jump start it it blew up my portable jump starter. I changed to fresh car battery but have been having an issue with the negative lead being too loose and disconnecting (the nuts is as tight as i can make it). Could any of that have fried something? The garage i'm taking it do tunes etc, so could they tune the car to use less o2 or more fuel. or is that dumb?

My cars failing its MOTfor emissions, the garage dont know what the issue is but think it might be my cobra back box. It's only 6 years old new from cobra. I've used another garage before who were great and they are also a powerflow custom shop. So I'm going for to take it there for a second opinion and i guess may end up with a powerflow back end. Don't want anything sounding too severe. I like my cobra, except for the 3-4k rpm drone! They do an off the shelf back box delete, but won't the lack of back box make it really loud? They do custom work as well, so they can hopefully make it sound as quiet as I want but that's a bit hard to judge isn't it...

You mentioned powerflow above, what are they like? My cars failing its MOTfor emissions, the garage dont know what the issue is but think it might be my cobra back box. I've used another garage before and they are also a powerflow custom shop. So I'm going for to take it there for a second opinion and may end up with a powerflow back end. Don't want to anything sounding to severe. I like my cobra, except for the 3-4k rpm drone.

The garage said they spent 3 hours trying to fix it and have bunged up a few leaks etc but it's only improved slightly and is still a fail. They thinks it's the cobra back box as its after market and have advised me to put the oem one on and retest (not that I have it). The cobras only 6 years old new direct from cobra. Really don't know what to do now. There's a local custom exhaust garage who I used once before and seemed pretty sound. I'm going to take it to them. They are a normal garage with an side hussel in exhaust so they do MOTs

So its still failing, they found a small exhaust leak but fixing that didn't help. I did 150 miles on 1/2 a tank of 99ron with one bottle of Fort up to the midlands and then the same back down south with anouther 1/2 tank and bottle of Fort and filled it up with 99 once i got back. Not sure about the garage to be honest its got great google reviews but he didn't sound very convincing when i asked about what to do next. He said i could take it back and fix it myself (thanks, but you haven't told me what the problem is...) or they could take another look at it. When asked about what they'd do he said they would put it on "the computer" but weren't sure if they'd have time today. My MOT expired on 25th but the MOT fail was on the 20th, so i only have until Friday to sort something out.

£20 of petrol in 2022 prices or 2021 🤪 What i'm going to do is run my current tank down as far as i risk it half fill with 99 put the cleaner in drive the 200 miles to birmingham, fill with half a tank again and put a second bottle in and drive back.

How do you use this? I've ordered some, I also ordered some bg44k but it won't get here until Monday and I'm due back a the garage Tuesday morning. I should get the Forte stuff in time for the weekend. I presume it won't have an immediate effect i.e. I can't just stick it in the tank and turn up to the garage. I'd have to put it in and go for a long drive? I should get the forte stuff on Friday so can go and visit my folks over the weekend, that usually uses a full tank of petrol. I did half a tank of cheap shell fuel 🥺 when the price started spiking a few months ago. I'm nearly empty now, so can refill with the proper stuff. My question is should i fill all the way up and then put the cleaner in or would it work best with 1/2 a tank? And when i have it in the tank is it best to drive normally or keep the revs high.

Still got the heatshields on, but they are very rusty. Presume its stock under the heatshields 😆.

2004 DE, I've got a Cobra exhaust but i think it's stock CATs. No MAP 1.069 on the first and 1.072 on the second (Max 1.03.). Sounds from reading this forum thats its most likely a CAT issue. Hardly use my car at the moment I only drive once or twice a month and that's not very far. would giving it a few good runs out now help at all or is it all about giving it a good run just before the MOT so the CATs are hot. TBH its always smelled a bit at cold start up, but never failed before. What are peoples recommendations for a fuel cleaner i.e. Redex... BG44k? If it fails again what do i do? replace the CATS? how much should i be budgeting for that?

Not seen that before. My guess is that yours is different because it came with the factory sat nav I’d just have a pull on those tabs and see if there are screws behind them

Any lead with a headphone jack at one end will do. Just cut off whatever connector is at the other end and cut the sheath off a few cm of the wire.

rear lights added to OP

Moving house so nee to have a bit of a clear out. Collection from Brighton or buyer to arrange postage £100 COBRA back box tail pipe weld has given way, but should be fairly easy to weld back on. All the other welds look fine £80 OEM Wing mirrors - black - with connections for heated mirrors £50 - Dynamat Xtreme - 4 sheets of 18" x 32" (9 sheets to a box) £20 OEM Kickplates - wrapped in carbon vinyl. This was my awful first attempt at wrapping. I can take the wrap off if you want to see what they are like underneath. From memory they in good condition. Free - Fan shroud, one of the motors kept stopping usually a good clean of the motors will solve this. I just brought mishimoto fans instead I'm not on here much these days, but I'll try and check back in every few days. I think if you me a PM i'll get an email

Well the OEM one I got lasted 3 days, just got one from ebay and put it in and everything's back to normal. The CC was still flashing SET for a bit but i got annoyed and pressed/ switched all the steering wheel face controls and that sorted it . It might be that the CC set rocker switch is on the way out or just a gremlin.

Brake fluid is fine, mines a little over high, but Zman said this was fine when I ordered the OEM switch from him a few months ago.. There's nothing complex going on inside the switch I took the old one completely apart to see if giving the contacts a total clean would fix it. I can try another switch but my multi meter shows its working as a switch gate should i.e. on or off. I also have the cruise control set light blinking, which doesn't seem to be a common problem on threads discussing the abs/tcs lights. But i'm not sure how many people use cruise control, so it may not be noticed. A flashing Set light means: Malfunction for some self-diagnoses regarding ASCD control: SET lamp will blink quickly. Perhaps if yours is failing all time its not a fault with the part you keep replacing 🧐... I'll keep you informed.... Anyone in the brighton area have an ABS code reader???

Hi, long time no speak... 😁 I've had the ABS/TCS/ESP light issue for a few years now, lights would come on and my brake lights would stop working. To fix it I would just pull the brake switch out of the pedal post and give the switch a quick few compressions. That would fix for a few weeks, I then tried spraying electrical cleaner into the switch and it would clear it for months. It started to get worse at the start of the year so I order a new switch from Zmanalex. Installed the switch and the issue went away for a few days but then returned. The warning lights now trigger pretty much the first time I press the brakes and my brake lights don't work at all. After installing the new switch I started to have an issue with cruise control not setting but it would only take 1 or 2 press of the switch to get it to set. Now it won't set at all, it just flashes when I press the switch. I've pulled both the brake and cruise control switches and tested them on a multi meter. The brake switch shows minimal resistance when compressed and no continuity when released the CC is the other way round. What else can I try? is it time to take it to the garage to see what actual error code is? I've tried doing some hard brakes in the wet and everything seems fine from an ABS point of view. I did have one tyre fixed around the same time I replaced the switch so did think they may have damaged the ABS sensor removing my wheel, but presume a faulty ABS wouldn't stop the brake lights working? I'm thinking maybe its the wiring or brake light socket? Perhaps I've damaged it by having to pull the switch out every month or so? Is there anyway to diagnose this?

Its £250 per year not month and some of that premium is also not have to deal with firms like admiral if anything does go wrong, so there is a piece of mind benefit too. I'm almost certainly going to be out of the petrol/performance car game in a year or 2 and i'll be leased electric though mt work,so its short term risk. There absolutely is a break even point, if i don't ever need to claim then i obviously lose out financially but still have the piece of mind, if I claim within in 10-15 years then i would break even.

I very nearly went with Admiral but there were a few others around the same price. It was 343 inc. breakdown, legal etc. But there was £25 cashback through quidco and also a £20 halfords voucher through Confused. So maybe call it 300-345. Rang up A flux and they brought my quote down from 680 to 608 (10%). this included £52 agreed value @ £7k an actual like for like would have been 345 vs 550. £200 premium to be with a better insurer or £250 to be with a better insurer and to get an extra £3-4k if I ever do write it off.

I think i figured out what the issue with my initial quote was, it was my VPN. I turned it off today and now I getting more quotes through, including admiral at £280. I use PIA as a VPN, its a popular one, which i think also makes it popular with criminals. I've noticed random oddities like this before where websites don't play nice with me. People who use VPNs are notoriously bad drivers

I have an agreed value policy with AF, I send them photos of my car and a list of all the mods and work I've had done and they come back with a value for my car. I've assumed they won't haggle too much, if at all on that value should i write it off. The agreed value adds £50 to the premium.

Rang up Admiral and they couldn't tell me why it wasn't working online. but I've got a quote of £301 with Admiral vs £650 with AF. obviously would need to check all the small print to compare but my quandary is : £300 per year vs ~£2k if I ever write it off so a ~7 year break even window. I've had 8 years behind the wheel and one write off 4 months after passing my test... Touching all the wood right now.

Sounds like I'll probably move away from AF, 'IF' I can figure out why I can't get insurance via non specialists. I've not added the speed awareness course to my quotes, it just asks if I have had any Speed Awareness doesn't fall under any of that does it and there is no where else for me to put it? and according to google there is no way for insurance companies to find out that I've been on one.

I normally do go with the specialists but I was tempted last year by basically halving my premium was a non specialist, (but forgoing the agreed value) however this year they all the non specialists seem to have disappeared.