Zalas

Pics are good! Makes me not feel so bad about the ongoing state of mine 😂

BiltHamber Dynax UC/UB is great stuff.

So holy thread revival batman, an update. It passed its MOT finally, I just need the clips for the sill cover. Been to the paint shop, stone chipped/Bilt Hamber UB50 applied, had the rear arch filled as well where it went through outer and inner skin. Now to start on the front!

Great to hear, I'm in exactly the same boat: passed last week with minor advisories (rust underneath front of car). Had to replace the y-pipe with a second-hand Cobra I got ages ago in order to get the lambda reading low enough due to splits around the flexi areas. Al.

Which mastic epoxy did you use? Al.

Agreed, unless rear shock bolt is seized in which case a bit longer and a PM and parts from your good self 🤣

Including shocks?

However they do look nice once done. Also: if you do try to fit a new whiteline bush dont whatever you do heat the casing up first - not only does it warp the aluminium it also melts the bush - bt,gtts

My experience from last few months: nightmare. Bolt so rusted in it snapped the weld on the captive nut on the shock body and then was rusted into the bush itself which needed to be cut out (bolt and bush). Had a new whiteline bush to press in and three shops failed to press. Ended up getting a second hand knuckle and top support arm from zmanalex for less than the price of a whiteline bush!

Bilstein b6 also highly rated and due to my pestering they're running a production batch at the moment 👍

No, shouldn't do. Tstat opens and closes regardless of rad unless you've got something dislodged and stuck in the tstat from the flushing and refilling?

Panic over on that one then You'd notice.

Full expansion tank? Full to line/marker or full to brim? Expansion tank should expand when hot and then reduce when cool/cold - if it's staying pressurised it would suggest head gasket (pressurised by exhaust gasses).

Wow, thanks Alex... Another reason you're a legend 👍

Indeed. Could you PM me a price? 🫣🤣

Hopefully a quick hive-mind question. I've measured the 14mm rear subframe pin as a 1.5" thread pitch (standard M14 fine) but my lovely shiny titanium replacement nuts (cheaper than OEM from Torqen once you include shipping) do not fit after three or four threads. Not wanting to cross-thread I was wondering - does anyone know whether they are "non-standard" bolt thread and whether or not aftermarkets should fit? I could always use an M14 die but hestitant in-case pitch is "special". The "correct" OEM subframe nut for the other side slips straight on which leads me to question my replacement nut thread pitch; none of my other "replaced" front nuts (replaced when swapped kidney brackets) seem to fit either?

This is looking at the wheel arch lining closest to the front of the car, and removed sill cover

So the pin is replaced and I've started on a rust and recovery job as I thought I might. Wheel well fun and games: structural or non structural?

Answer with long old followwup. You don't need to do those steps if not dropping the subframe-just jack up car, leave jack under diff, add axle stands, swear and curse at the 19mm bastard that moves but has very heavily corroded thread on the bolt

Hi all, 2004 JDM has some rust worm going on... Including flaking dog eared transmission sump. Any spares going? Thanks, Zal.

Eibach Front and Rear Adjustable Anti roll bars with White line drop links - £150 Collected Still available? Does "collected" mean they've already been collected?

Hi Rob, Did you have any update on that y-pipe sat in your garage? Thanks, Alastair.

Thanks to @ZMANALEX for the new pin, and Torqen for the brace and brackets. Question: Removing the outermost nuts from the brace seems to be wanting to drop the ENTIRE subframe. Can I use a strategically placed jack on the subframe to support it and stop it from dropping too much? I'm mildly concerned about the alignment to the diff etc. Is there any way to reduce the pressure on the jack? Would removing the road springs on the rear help? I really want to avoid dropping the subframe as it's seemingly a total ballache. The FSM steps for subframe are: Removal and Installation AES000BV REMOVAL 1. Remove tire with power tool. 2. Remove brake caliper with power tool. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work. Refer to BR38, "REAR DISC BRAKE (AD14VE TYPE)" , BR-44, "REAR DISC BRAKE (OPB13VB TYPE)" . NOTE: Avoid depressing brake pedal while brake caliper is removed. 3. Remove rear exhaust tube. Refer to EX-3, "EXHAUST SYSTEM" . 4. Remove stabilizer bar. Refer to RSU-16, "STABILIZER BAR" . 5. Remove drive shaft. Refer to RAX-10, "REAR DRIVE SHAFT" . 6. Remove final drive. Refer to RFD-10, "REAR FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY" . 7. Separate the attachment between parking brake cable and vehicle and rear suspension member. Refer to PB-3, "PARKING BRAKE CONTROL" . 8. Remove rear lower link and coil spring. Refer to RSU-15, "REAR LOWER LINK & COIL SPRING" . 9. Remove fixing bolt in lower side of shock absorber. 10. Set jack under rear suspension member. 11. Remove fixing bolts and nuts of tunnel stay and member stay from vehicle. 12. Remove fixing bolts and nuts of rear pin stay and then remove rear pin stay from vehicle. 13. Slowly lowering jack, then remove rear suspension member, suspension arm, radius rod, front lower link and axle from vehicle as a unit. 14. Remove fixing bolts and nuts, then remove suspension arm, front lower link, radius rod from rear suspension member I need to do all those just to get to step 12 Surely that can't be right for simply replacing the pin? A.

From a related link via google I think the call about 'towing point' is almost correct: Thanks for the tip, Jason. Since posting my original message, I discovered that hook. But, it's not actually a tow hook. It's used to tie the car down for transport. It will bend if a significant side load is put on it, although it is stout enough to use when pulling the car straight back. That's what I'm told, anyway. Both sound plausible - either way it's going to come off for strip and paint rather than replace... That's what AA is for Al,

Bah, pin stay. Subframe? Not that important then 😂😂