Zalas

Looking good! Massive difference. How were the bushes in the banana arms? It's a never ending saga isn't it - I started with that brace ended up replacing the bearings, outer/inner rods, multiple patches of rusted component and still not done

Spotted a black zed at Weyhill petrol station, Andover. I was walking in to get milk and slyly admired from afar.

Nice work! What brand were they? Irwin? Normally I end up snapping the bolt shaft before rounding the head Chinesium much? Mine's been on axle stands for the last three weeks waiting for the droplinks to be adjusted under load and the outer tierods tightened ... give it another 2 months and I might get around to it X5 arms and e92 subframes are first jobs. Sad.

still available. Open to offers.

Would heatgun work better? Or does it need to be universally heated.

Looks good, likewise to the cautious wrecking. I've got my MOT booked for next week. Hopefully it passes!

bump, still available.

Hydrate80 rather than Kurust. Does great on classic car tests and recommended lots on detailing-world and other forums, and my own experience. Are there any drains around there that could have broken or come loose? Not got a 'vert but had similar on various cars incl. X5 with a busted sunroof drain.

Good to see and hear it's still going - it's nice that lineage like this can continue to be found and exist!

Nice! How did you do the 'rebuild' clean - compressed air and qtips?

Replaced two years ago using ones from zmanalex - had to get a shop to press the bearings on and pull the old off but they're working really well. Replacing the fronts at the moment.

Front Left and Right set of suspension corners - upper arms, lower arms, knuckle and hub/bearings. Also contains speed sensor and plastic cap. Bushes will need replacing on some of the arms. £200 per side, £350 for the pair. Postage £25 I ordered these from zmanalex but they proved unneccessary as I was able to get out my lower ball joint from the knuckle.

Awesome news! Hoping to put mine in a couple weeks once bits from Alex and Coz have arrived.

Fingers crossed!! Highly.recomment the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB/UC for underneath and the S50 for cavities. I'll send some pics tonight of how my arches and underneath look as I have my knuckles and tie rods off at the moment.

Looking good, reminisent of the work I'm doing on mine. Taps for the threads are a godsend - so often they're fine threads though so watch out. Unfortunately all the work I got done in this thread ( ) has mostly started to get rust inside again and rust stains leak out. Dynax S50 to the rescue

Ohi I thought I'd nabbed the seats? 🤔🤘

Would a hairdryer be better than a heat gun? Very interested in doing this myself. Used the 3M to good effect with GTechniq G4 a few years back but they've gone again, as has the e70. This film looks great!

And the strut bar too! Stop me now.

Thanks Coz, PM sent!

Gutted Coz. That's the worst way for a car to go What's the quality of the seats bud? My bolsters are ripped in my DE - would these fit direct replacement? Al.

As the restoration continues (started by removing a bit of rust on the front crossmember, now complete rebuild and de-rust) I have a couple of weeps. One is on the pressure valve/nut on the steering rack which will be taken care of by sealant around the outside HOWEVER I'm struggling to identify this under the rad. The closest I can come to is 'lower tank' referenced on https://nissan.oempartsonline.com/v-2004-nissan-350z--enthusiast--3-5l-v6-gas/cooling-system--radiator-and-components - it's in the same horizontal line as the rad drain plug and lower hose attachment. Any thoughts? Right hand side just below the clips where the fan shroud sits. Two pipes (RH and LH) run from the auto-box to the radiator and back again so i assume an integrated trans-cooler and rad. I'm hoping it's as simple as re-sealing the union/thread with a washer and pipe jointing compound for good measure? Thanks. Al.

Used this guide during the last few days. Spot on! Done in about 1h10. One thing very useful - PH3 screw driver bit in a impact driver makes very short work of the three motor/regulator screws without destroying them (Step 4, bolts in blue) My support bar next to the skin was surface rusted, took the time to spray some Dynax onto the skin, bottom of door inner and the support bar. Well worth doing. Al

Thanks - I've also seen the Tein H-tech springs (not the S-Tech) from Torqen and the US: Front Drop - 0.3"Rear Drop - 0.2" Are Kilen good? The blurb on their site seems to tell a good tale but ... Al.