Floydbax

I have managed to load a couple of pix of these on my wheels in my gallery on here if you want to see. I also have a few more pix for designs of Z caps if you want me to mail them to you. I did send Signdesigns a load of ideas and suggested they offer the forum a discount but they never got back to me. It seems like they offer a regular discount of 10% to repeat customers, the code word to enter is: Loyalty.

http://www.signdezin...����������These guys will make up anything you like, I had some great old Datsun 'Z' logo's in yellow on chrome. looks fantastic, amazing how such a small thing can make such a big difference. I also got some VW ones and Porsche ones for my brothers and they also look great. Edited to add there's a pic of one in my gallery.

OP, I think the answer to your question is as follows: The Uprev is a reflash of the car's own ECU which is basically a retune. The 350 ECU is effectively 'locked' by Nissan so unless you get a 'piggyback' ECU you have to buy the rights and mapping skills of the people who have 'cracked' the lock - they being Uprev. The tuning 'chips' you can get are basically useless, all they do is plug into the sensor loom and send different signals than true in order to fool the ECU into thinking the air is colder or denser than it is and therefore overfuel the engine. This does give an increase in power but it is not very efficient or particularly good for the engine (or fuel consumption). The standard 350 ECU has tuning maps which will optimise the parameters involved in tuning the car's performance within its - the map's (fairly narrow) band. These being things like air/fuel ratios and ignition timing, at different rev ranges and loads. The standard maps the ECU runs will be made to take into consideration just normal Nissan components and earthly things like air pressure and temperature etc. If you add things which will make differences in these parameters outside the map's range it will just do its best at the limit of those parameters but will not be the total optimum for them. That is why the Uprev is so good because the tuner can map to match whatever different components the vehicle has had changed or added. Hope this helps your understanding.

Looks more like he wants to reclaim his private reg back (vanity plate wtvr I have one myself).

That looks great. What did you pay for the wrap and do you think they did a good enough job?

Who are you with Pete? I'm not that far from you in terms of area and age group and I'm paying £400. Be interesting to ring them for a quote even though its not due 'til next may.

Quick update: It's now 6 months since I last resealed my lid and what one would call a great day for washing so I decided to do it today. There was still no sign of any mould at all. I have taken the plunge and used 303 protector this time and to be fair it looks like new after first 'Hibiscrubbing' it again. Yet to see how it compares with the scotchguard I used last time which worked perfectly.

And it was running on race fuel and they trailored it there, not in the real V-max style which I think is more drive there, run, drive it home

At V-max 200 the SVM blue GTR was pulling 220's regularly and peaked at 227

It sounds like an ISP blocking issue. Use 3G but try rebooting your router. If they've applied at router level it should pull the updated config (providing it's applied in that manner and the ISP have resolved). I'm not a networking SME but I should imagine they only pull/push every few hours. What I read there: ****** *** ****** ****** *** ******* *** ****** ***** ETC

Hello, Some users experienced problems accessing eBay in Europe from 08.55am BST until approximately 12.40pm. Our technical experts immediately investigated potential causes including third party internet service provider access issues. All eBay sites are working normally and we are sorry for the inconvenience. Regards - From Facebook E-bay page.

The GPX comes with only one engine variant the 2.0L MIVEC. You can tell the MIVEC from the non-MIVEC by the side of the engine the oil filler cap is on. It's the left hand side as you face the car from the front. There used to be lots of people trying to pass of the non-MIVEC as the MIVEC when selling I suspect this is not as bad these days though. Pop up a link to the car if you can and I'll give an opinion.

The GPX comes in manual and tip versions. There's also on GPX Version R which was an anniversary edition with a few small differences. These have usually been the best looked after because their owners have sought that variant out specifically. The difference between the GPX and GR is the GPX has the MIVEC variable valve timing - a bit like the Honda VTEC. The 2.0L V6 is an absolute screamer. Redlines at 8.25K RPM and sounds just beautiful, honestly not that different to the V10 in a Porsche Carrera GT - with the right exhaust (JP Macclesfield - I'm always recommending them ). The negines are usually pretty reliable, most owners will change the oil regularly with decent oil which is important and the timing belts ought to have already been done at the age the cars will be by now regardless of mileage. As has been pointed out other things to check are the alternator, stepper motor, the synchros in the manual gearbox can wear as well. Oh and the heater matrix - check the passenger footwell for damp! The roof rust problem seemed to affect the black ones and ones with the sunroof more than others and lots of owners already fixed the problem. Yes, the standard brakes are terrible!! In my first week I had an awful moment on a windy B-road with a cyclist and oncoming car. By the end of that week the car was wearing grooved and dimpled discs, Mintex pads, braided brake lines and dot 5 brake fluid which totally fixed the problem. There's loads of aftermarket stuff for this area.

I had my GPX manual for over 15 years, a super little car. Personally I wouldn't touch anything but a GPX and especially if there's been work done on the engine.There should be plenty of decent ones out there cheap. Mine was great, perfect bodywork, interior and only around 60 000 mls, a superb screamer of a V6 engine. Sadly it went to the scrappy, I neglected to rustproof it when I imported it and the chassis was totally f**ked. I would check out the forum for one of their members old cars, that's probably the best place to find a decent one. I disagree about a good bunch of guys, compared to this forum they are a load of attitude filled big kids. BUT, they do love their cars. So the main thing I would be checking is the chassis for rust and around the suspension struts as well. The drivers seats usually have wear on the bolsters but there's plenty of spares knocking around and a couple of companies who do leather conversions. Dip the engine oil and make sure it's not milky under the oil cap. Listen to the engine closely on tickover, the GPX tappets can be adjusted but the GR is a bit of a job. Have a listen to the exhaust, it tends to wobble around a lot which can in some cases cause it to crack in places - even after market ones.

Confirmation of your order of ULTRA RACING 4-Point Rear Lower Bar / Brace Nissan FAIRLADY Z33 350z RL4-1259...â€

Yea - it was a bitter-sweet thing, I had paid for the £162 brace, I hadn't seen the others at the cheaper price. I have messaged both the other (cheaper) sellers asking if they have one ready for immediate dispatch so hopefully one will get back to me in a positive way soon. My bolts are probably beyond polishing up, I think I was lucky to get them off intact and without using an extractor, so some nice titanium ones that don't rust and look nice (on those rare under car occasions would be a treat. - I could spend what I saved in the price difference on them.

I will take some pix, sadly they won't be done for a while as the supplier has just emailed me to tell me there's going to be a wait of maybe up to 2 weeks for them to restock I have requested a refund and will try some other suppliers though so maybe it won't be that long. I will make sure the fitting holes match up by laying the old and new over each other before I test -fit then I can do any necessary 'alteration' work in open space. Was just also contemplating getting some nice fixings from these guys: http://www.pro-bolt.com/home I know they are quite costly and they won't be seen and will get covered in s**te but the originals are rusty and way past their best.

I have already loosened all of the existing bolts and copper greased them. I only managed to shear one of the ones that hold the brace on and it looks to me like it is the one that is not used with the new brace. I did however manage to break 2 of the ones either side that hold the useless plastic underside deflectors on, but the back ones that are not a part of the W-brace are intact and I have cable-tied the fronts up. I will do the same with the new brace - it looks tidy enough and is just as functional.

It had better not be too hard to fit, I will be doing it on my driveway on axle stands on my back - can you tell me in particular what the issues were? Like do the holes not match up, or was it trouble removing the old brace?

I'm so glad you posted that pic, I ordered my new rear brace this morning and you made me realise I made the right decision not to replace the extremely rusty one with OEM.

Thanks for that. I think the Ultra Race one is made from a different metal.

I was attempting to remove my W-brace to de-rust it. The 4 main screws in the middle were OK but when it came to the 3 little screws holding on the plastic covers on the sides the first 2 I tried sheared off. I have just cable-tied it up for now while I'm asking for advice. I know I need to remove these plastic covers to access the other screws in order to remove the W-brace. My questions - firstly, are these plastic covers necessary and secondly, are the screws that sheared off a part of the W-brace itself so it is possible to replace them once the Brace is removed?? And another, the Ultra Racing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271410271144?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 4 point rear brace, is it better/worse than standard, does it do the same job, is it worth doing?