Floydbax

Silver, 16.15 coming out of Grove Park, I flashed - probably the wrong thing to do as it looked like they took that as a sign I was letting them pull over the road in front of me

Mine did this loads of times, still does occasionally, there's never any codes stored so I know its just the sensors playing silly buggers. I just clear it and carry on as normal. The smell is more likely the new exhaust burning off the newness, I wouldn't worry about it, I assume you listened for leaks when the HFC's were fitted, it's unlikely unless it was a complete shoddy job that there's a leak.

Could do with an edit there, it should read 'their Zed' not 'there Zed'

I don't think it's against the rules to post links to 3rd party sellers, as long as you have no personal business interest.

Just post the link on this thread or on the FB page I'm sure it will be appreciated.

I have used WU many times over the years and it's ok, a pretty safe way of doing it. However I have never known of the need for the recipient to have to provide an address. All you need to collect the money is proof of identity that matches the information the sender has provided and the MTCN (money transfer control number). As a sender you have to provides other details about yourself and WU keep records of this but I expect that is more for your security than anything else. UNLESS, you are doing a bank to bank or cash to bank transfer, then obviously there are sort codes and account numbers to deal with!

I have one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350530546725?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Sounds expensive but is so much more than just a code reader/clearer. It plugs into the port under the dash to the driver's right and sticks to the windscreen to the right of my instrument cluster. Clearing codes/eml's is a 10 second affair (I get loads of ghost warnings from my exhaust which throws the eml but theres never any codes stored so I know it's just the exhaust playing up). Works ok with ODB1 on my 2005 too.

That's typical European attitude, here in UK we just knuckle down and accept austerity measures, our economy recovers, we all feel a bit of the pain thru it together. Some European countries don't follow reasonable austerity measures, their economies are still in the poop. The EEC demands extra money from us because we are doing better!!!

Do you mean a heat shield for the filter like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Induction-Kit-Air-Filter-Heat-Shield-Heat-Shield-Stainless-Steel-Cone-Filter-/161363122578?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&var=&hash=item2591fdd992

Is it like an occasional tick or click? If so it's just hot metal cooling down.

I'm kinda working the opposite way on my Roadster. - Started at the front end with some Berk HFC's, then added a Hi-flow YPipe, now still contemplating what I ideally want from the mid pipe and rear box. However, the sound has gone from good (OEM) to great, to now - immense (in a good way). - And improved performance as another bonus. You really get the benefit of the sound with a roadster, all coupe drivers ought to blag a spin in one to experience it

Get some decent manifolds ( I mean proper equal length high-flow) - the rest you seem to have under control already. There are uprated engine mounts, might as well - huh - and as already said, make sure the metal mite is kept at bay :)

It looks to me to be part of the mechanism that helps the roof fold properly, just a bar to push the material neatly. If it all works then personally I'd just keep an eye on it. You have a pic of it as it is now so you can easily tell if it is getting worse. :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121454175984?_trksid=p11010.c100244.m2768&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140519113932%26meid%3Df0a4b665ab2f4a958bfce4dc01df92bb%26pid%3D100244%26prg%3D20140519113932%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D231347568367/?ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1120 Here you go - the item has been relisted - the last one went for £340 - Like I suggested, read the text in the advert further down, they seem like they are up for negotiation, drop them an email you never know!! These are a decent product not the 'allegedly' shite Japspeed items.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201178065292?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&autorefresh=true Check the link (hope it works) the same system on bid. If you read the text further down Top Gear are interested in feedback so it might be worth dropping them an email to see if you can come to an 'arrangement'

Wasn't there an issue with engine mounts for some years? Hopefully Alex will be along soon with proper advice

What ^ he said up there, check your oil level, if it's low you might not be too late, mine did this a while ago, took over 3 litres to bring it back to the right level, been totally fine ever since. I check it all the time now I'm paranoid about it.

I WANT that ram air filter

My plastic trim bits did a great job of collecting small stones and other miscellaneous road debris - tho having said that I suspect they haven't been touched since they went on at the factory. If you're going to replace the W Brace make sure you lead up to it with plenty of penetrating oil, several applications I mean, my car is '05 so those bolts have been there rusting in place for quite a while now I managed to snap a few of the heads off on the outer bolts ( There's 3 either side under the plastic trim). The Four middle ones came off a lot easier. There's 3 smaller ones that hold the plastic trim on, as you have experienced the front 2 tend to break off. These are actually a part of the W Brace itself and it you are replacing then it doesn't matter - 'tho like I pointed out when you come to replace the trim you will need to use cable ties. The rear bolt is a lot easier to 'lube' up and get off tho' I managed to replace the brace on my driveway on axle stands on my own so it can't be that difficult, tho it would take a lot less time if you can get onto a ramp

There's a couple of pix in my gallery of my new W brace which doesn't have the bolt for attaching this plastic bit back. Like GIX' said just use a cable tie, it actually holds the tray up better and higher and tighter than the original bolt.

As has been mentioned several times now on this thread. Since the MOT was changed several years ago to a pretty much computerised system (why it takes so long these days ) there is a warning to the operator about this that comes up on the screen. Although I always mention it just so they have it in mind and don't forget.

I have 25's all round on my 350 Roadster. When first fitted they really changed the feel of the car. It didn't feel right, but that was just because I had become used to how it already felt without the spacers. A year or so down the line and the handling while different doesn't feel any worse just different.

My FTO had a lock in the mapping that wouldn't let you go over certain RPM until the engine was up to temperature. Not sur if the Z has a similar system as I've never tried revving it from cold but it wouldn't surprise me if there was something there to prevent damage to the engine! (Not that you should test this!!) Maybe one of the real gurus could let us know, Alex, Mark??

It's not so much the 'engine' per se that needs warming up it's the oil, which needs to be at a certain temperature before it does it's job properly of lubricating between metal parts rubbing together and those metal parts have expanded due to the heat produced during the combustion process. All engines suffer from this except 2 stroke where some of the oiling process is partly taken care of in the fuel mix.

Those TT RS's are seriously quick cars. We were at a VMax when a guy turned up in one of the first in the country, it was freakin' rapido. After a while it got a bit hot so he popped the 'hood' to help it cool down. Surrounded by VMaxers quickly as all engine bays do, the question was put - 'so what have you had done to it'?? His reply was - 'Err, nothing, just picked it up from the dealer that morning'!!