Jon T

I have this Sir http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-Front-Bottom-Lower-Under-Engine-Tray-Trim-Cover-Splash-Guard-GENUINE-/272254119652?hash=item3f639c2ee4:g:bRoAAOSwNsdXRcjh

Do you mean Flywheel Alex? I know what you mean. Before I got into mechanics, my local garage ruined my200SX engine through stupidity, but because we had had a long relationship I still didn't want to name and shame. Infact, that was the reason I got into cars, so I could do my own engine work without relying on plonkers, and then somehow I ended up selling Nissan parts for a living lol.

Wow. Nice. I think every single point in that post is incorrect? That engine never had a chance. On the plus side, I think I am correct in saying that there is no way that the mechanic could have damaged the engine right? I mean, even if the timing is messed up by, for instance, the flywheel on wrong, you couldn't actually do any mechanic damage to it. Just flood the bores with fuel and upset it a bit. As long as he hasn't gone into the timnig chain compartment, then there can never be any internal valve/piston interference. Please confirm?

Will the VQ run with no MAF signal? and if what Ricey is saying is correct and there are four possible positions for the flywheel to be fitted, it would mean that the position could be anything from 45 deg or more out, which would not allow the engine to even run, but even so the sensor will just count teeth, and the ECU will know the relevant position for correlating the cam POS with the crank to determine the actual real position, so in theory unless these do tally up the engine will not fire anyway. I only know because my mech fell foul of it once. Box off again......strewth! He's a cracking mech but thats where being a specialist sometimes pays dividends. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Agreed Sir. Agreed. Because they have made the mistakes before and know what to look for. Pedro any updates from the front line Sir?

That would be a HELL of a lot easier wouldn't it...

From my experience removing MAF retards timing for safety and richens the mix, but nothing that would give our symptoms. Just looking away from this problem quickly, and to the future sales of engine. This sale has really given me the willies. An idea crossed my mind. I could only offer future returns/warranty etc if the engine change is done at a "approved" 350z engine change mechanic. There would be a list of approved mechanics that we would approve and update on a regular basis. Currently, before selling engines, I always check with buyer that their mechanic is qualified, but it doesn't appear to be working. This would: 1) make my life so much easier, as you can imagine I get so many problems like this involving well-meaning mechanics, that are just not up to the job. 2) make it much cheaper and less stressful for the customer. Or maybe I'll only ship to garages on the approved list or something?

I agree with everything said today. Firstly I'm just going to update our check list, to make it more readable to others: 1) Rear coil packs mixed up. Yeah i asked him about this and he said he had checked 2) Flywheel out of alignment. Ill ask about this when i speak to him on Monday. 3) Bottom CPS: yes these often get "smacked" when changing engines due to their position. From my experience when the CPS is gone, then it won't run at all. Same as above 4) Oil pressure gauge used to check oil pressure. Also same. 5) Has he put oil in it? He has put oil in it yes, 6) are they correct spark plugs? The spark plugs are fairly new, they are Bosch plugs which i know isn't recommended but they ran fine in my old engine, besides the 4th cylinder which was buggered. 7) did he turn the engine over by hand to build some pressure and settle the chain? Im not sure about this but he did compression test the engine before fitting which would have been done by hand 8) do a code read post codes? He didnt say anything about codes but ill ask him to check on Monday. 9) is it correct engine ie revup or non revup. (we did check this didn't we Pedro?) My car is a UK 05 which is the same as the donor car so there shouldn't be any compatibility issues Additional comments. He said that he had the plenum off and observed flames coming from all six intakes so i dont think its related to the coil pack wiring if this is the case. I believe this just means that timing is out. It could be coil packs yes, or mechanical, or anyhting affecting timing. If this guy cant do the work, is there anyone around Aberdeen that anyone can recommend? Expect courier costs £1-1.5 per mile. Alex are you within range and would be willing to take the car on Sir? Regards fly wheel, just gearbox would have to be removed to check it, so we should plan to make this the last thing to be checked if you know what I mean.

I have been emailing a chap that fits VQ's. Unfortunately he is down south, so is no use to you, but has some more info to add: " Hey john looked at the post. Ive done a lot with these engines and they are bomb proof. The hydraulic lifters are mechanical. There should be no firing in the manifold or plenum and on 6 cylinders. For this to happen the ecu would be reading engine position, and controling the firing as it normally would. The flywheel i believe can fit many positions, there is a mark on flywheel to say where it should go. If its wrong it can give a too early firing, symptom, then what happens is all the other sensors are trying to correct everything, so you got fuel mixtures going wrong, timing being retarded, etc. So its a knock on effect. My experience of diagnostics john is always solve the basics. And look at the facts. If it was working before fine, then theres no reason it shouldnt now. Always check basics: - Has he put oil in it? - Has he put flywheel on properly? - are they correct spark plugs? - did he turn the engine over by hand to build some pressure and settle the chain? - do a code read post codes? - is it correct engine ie revup or non revup. (we did check this didn't we Pedro?) Logically, if it worked before, then i would say its fitment fault. " So to update our list: 1) Rear coil packs mixed up. We think that this has been checked. 2) Flywheel out of alignment. 3) Bottom CPS: yes these often get "smacked" when changing engines due to their position. From my experience when the CPS is gone, then it won't run at all. 4) Oil pressure gauge used to check oil pressure. 5) Has he put oil in it? 6) are they correct spark plugs? 7) did he turn the engine over by hand to build some pressure and settle the chain? 8) do a code read post codes? 9) is it correct engine ie revup or non revup. (we did check this didn't we Pedro?)

Gotcha I have been discussing it with friends today. The oil pressure problem and timing problem we do not think can be linked to each other. For the engine to have developed a separate oil pressure problem AND timing problem we think is pretty much impossible. Hence I don't think they could have measured the oil pressure at all. Let's see what happens Mon. Thanks PS - it may be worth investigating where the nearest 350z specialist is to you? I've sold so many of these VQ's, and my spider senses are telling me that these guys, as good as they are, may simply not have the experience to fit this engine VQ properly.

ta

Can a mod please move this thread into the proper technical section please? Not sure why I created it here. Thanks

Are you up to date Pedro? Do you understand my points from post #16?

Incase it has any relavance Sir: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-Alloy-Wheels-With-Tyres-18-ET30-8JJ-5x114mm-Full-Set-GOOD-TYRES-/282081391288?hash=item41ad5c72b8:g:6VUAAOSwGIRXcVLN

I sell these Sir: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-VQ35DE-Inlet-Intake-Manifold-Plenum-Upper-Top-Cover-/281967365780?hash=item41a6908e94:g:13AAAOSwxp9W6CUS

Some good info there: - rear coil packs mixed up: yes, I have done this myself several times and it gave all kinds of weird symptoms, took me ages to figure it out. Invariably the white numbers have worn off the looms I find, so really easy to get them mixed up. Strangely, they are SUPPOSED to look the wrong way round at the rear NS. If they look right, then they are wrong. Do you know what I mean? I guess this could fool our man if he is not used to VQ's. - Flywheel out of alignment: I didn't realise it was possible, but yes needs checking if all else fails. - Bottom CPS: yes these often get "smacked" when changing engines due to their position. From my experience when the CPS is gone, then it won't run at all. - Oil pressure gauge: That is exactly what I was thinking. We need to ask him if he has measured the oil pressure with a proper gauge as the in-car one is just a toy and often doesn't work any way.

Duh! Sorry yeh - I have actually dismantled about 5 of these engines believe it or not, completely forgot they where solid lifter on valve. OK that's good news. We are now happy that oil pressure can not be the cause of a timing issue. Like Alex says, it sounds more like a "traditional" timing problem. So this leads us to question; is there actually a lack of oil pressure? Pedro I wonder if you could question the mechanic as to how he is measuring the oil pressure? Or is he just assuming that the pressure is down due to his own thinking.

Guys this is a link to the main thread that is in my trade area, please see: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/110724-please-help-with-problem-with-an-engine-that-i-supplied-recently/

Hey guys - soz I had to go out to collect yet another crashed Zed - lol I just realised that I completely missed the part about there being no oil pressure. So let's look at the logic: - timing problems can not causing oil pressure problems - oil pressure problems we think can cause timing issue due to lifter malfunction. So if the mech is correct about the oil pressure being low, doesn't that mean that the route cause MUST be oil pressure? And the only cause of pressure problem is oil pump right? Does everyone agree with that rationale? I forgot to answer Pedro earlier. Yes the oil pressure was looking fine during my test. I'm really pee'd off that I didn't show the pressure gauge in the video. I must start doing this. If required we can talk to Shresh who I bought the car from to confirm no previous pressure issues.

So the first thing I have done is to review my records to look for anything I've possibly done wrong or unsual. - the bare engine was supplied complete and drained. I hadn't opened up any of the VVT system, or removed the VVT variators/soleniods at the top. - if we look at my pallet record photos below, we see that I laid the engine on it's side for postage. I don't usually do this. I was in a real hurry for this delivery, so laid it down without thinking. Now, thinking about it, there is a chance that it was orientated just slightly passed plumb level, and hence oil dregs from the block could have seeped into the cylinders. This would explain the smokey engine when the mechanic started it up. From my experience just a few drops of oil can produce a @*!# load of smoke. But could this actualy cause any mechanical issues? Not in my mind. There is never going to be enough fluid in there to hydrolock is there? Even if there was, I couldn't see it produce our results. https://goo.gl/photo...dPTLwRY74zU7hU9 https://goo.gl/photo...rBCSRX36VXjUrMA - I have supplied around 50 VQ's. I have had some non-starters before. In each case it turned out to be the VVT variators in each case that was to blame. They had seized up while out of the car, and were cocking up the timing and producing similar results, just without the smoke. In each case the mechanics invloved removed and cleaned through the variators, and hey presto! Everything worked.

Hey guys, I am hoping that you can save my backside from a possibly expensive problem for me. Long story short, I sold a VQ35DE bare engine to forum member Pedro85 to replace a engine with damaged internals. My engine is now installed but will not run in his car. I will list problem details below, but first some quick details about my engine. Just so that you don't think that I am selling dodgy engines; the engine is a 48k miles from a 2005 UK car. I bought the car from a forum member on here, so we have plenty of history etc if he is willing to get involved. Here is the engine cold start and test video: I can not identify any issues in the video, so I am certain that it is a faultless engine. I also checked the cylinder pressures and they were all tops and nearly identical, as expected. I've offered the customer to return the engine, but neither of us want to do that, so we are really hoping to get it working properly. The problem - I'll paste in here parts of our private discussion regarding what the problem is: " Bad news i'm afraid, i've just heard from my mechanic that the engine isn't working According to him there's no oil pressure and one of the cylinders isn't firing. He seems to think it might be timing related The mechanic has worked on my car a few times, but not to this extent. He is a very experienced mechanic though, he often swaps out engines, rebuilds them etc. I went down to see the car for myself and suggested that the coil pack wiring might be the wrong way round but he had already checked that. He said that the engine isn't generating any oil pressure and there is ignition happening in the plenum, suggesting that the inlet vales are open on the compression stroke, he thinks that it might be caused by insufficient oil pressure to the hydraulic lifters. The other cause might be the ignition timing but since these cars are electrically timed he doesn't think that it could be this. He also said that when he tried to turn the engine over it filled the workshop with smoke. My original engine has a hole burnt into one of the exhaust valves causing a miss fire, with pieces of the valve having fallen into the cylinder. Did you check to see if the engine was generating oil pressure when you tested it? " So we have some good info there. Although I know these cars pretty well, I am not an engine mechanic, so I am hoping to get some of the bigger brains involved in this please?

Bah - sorry - the OSF one is reserved

I sell used pipes, if you want used?

I have a black car coming in with both sprayers. Just need to check, as one side has been reserved, I forget which.

Hey Jim - I'm removing one from a breaker car tomorrow - let me know if you require please

What are you actually after Mufu? The belt tensioner assemblies? Or every pulley on the engine?