gareth29

right! 1st it is then. ta

I had wondered about the clutch but you dont really have to slip it at all. btw ekona, your road trip looks pretty epic, we were planning to pop over to the continent but i think we'll have a few more non-driving days - like one!?

Pretty sure i've found the source of this piece. There are some "fins" on the base of the alloy sump - they may be vanes to guide oil flow. Anyway, i spotted them whilst looking at the "attacking the timing chain" post on 350z tech and it looks like part of it has broken off somehow. Cant be that important anyway, cos it going like a train!

Find i'm doing this all the time unless on a hill - first seems very short and the slightly recalcitrant change into 2nd is avoided. Anyone else do this?

Thanks for this - thought i'd forgotten how to drive smoothly, its like a different car. Moving the silver bolt was impossible until i cut some better teeth on the pliers with a hacksaw!

I bought a cat c recently and the only damage was to the front wings - which both need replacing really - its about whether a repair can be made economically for the insurer isnt it? as someone has already said - cost of main dealer parts labour etc + of course the "referral fees" scam.

You're right it is a pita, but eventually i got the sequence of pedal pushes and timings right - timed with a stopwatch

Thanks, tried the ac trick - no joy, maybe my ac isnt working, i also tried the idle air learn at the same time as the tb reset. Looks like a visit to a specialist.

Update on the interior refurb - got the gear nob, handbrake and most importantly the steering wheel (that was the bit that really bugged me) back to black. Here are the results. The buffalo stuff inc. the little airbrush is really easy to use. And the next job - the seat bolster, or maybe the whole seat, depending on how the colour match works.

Contact buffalo - today i've just been changing my alezan gear nob, steering wheel and handbrake to black, results look good so far - buffalo supply a little airbrush and everything you need for around £75

Thanks, done a tb reset and cleaned it recently, also new plugs - could try cleaning the maf, but it looks ok and very fragile! Are the nissan consults on ebay ok? eg this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Consult-Diagnostic-Interface-Cable-Tool-obd-14-Pin-/121108557944?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c32a1f078

Anyone know how to do this? I assume you need an obd thingy? Mine idles at around 650rpm, a bit lumpily and easy to stall as a result (thats wot i'm blaming anyway). Strangely tho, my manual suggests an idle speed of 650.

I ran an alfa gtv6 2.5 a while ago and although it did sound nice, it had nowhere near the grunt of the Z, which i think sounds fab btw

what are the chief differences between different makes of discs, apart from the grooves etc is it the composition of the iron? do you need a harder disc for say ebc yellowstuff/redstuff?

is this for 2 front ones? - seems a bit pricey - i have a price of 170 for ebc turbo groove fronts only

lovely engine bay!

Finished the job at the weekend - car started 1st time and sounds fab and is delivering loads of creamy, smooth power! Balanced a glass of water on top of the plenum - not a ripple to be seen. Been out for lots of little test drives with family and friends - driving the 9 miles to work is fun too. Only fly in the ointment is a small oil leak that i thought would be cured when i re-sealed the front timing chain case, but it turns out its dripping onto the top of the a/c compressor from somewhere else. Massive relief that its all working properly Thanks to all who posted helpful comments.

aren't the shoes for the hand brake inside the hub? - if so you will need to release the handbrake and back the shoes off first

Problem solved - found 2 from nissan at howden nr goole, posting them tonite - £20 the pair, for 2 little plastic rings - i hope theres something special about the plastic - I am going to have to get a 2nd job just to run this car! thanks for all your help and suggestions

sorry about the tiny font size - dont know what happened there

yeah - i'll maybe try nissan leeds, but the one at bradford said they had a policy of not posting stuff out - so thats a trip to explain what i need and another to collect them. think i might try abbey

had a good look up inside the sump, couldnt feel or see any more debris or see any damage, nor is there any damage in the area where the cam snapped. so, i'm just going to bolt it back together and hope for the best!

Tomorrow i will be putting in the new cam and then bolting everything else back together (see intake backfire). Unfortunately, between us, nissan bradford and i have failed to order the seal rings which fit on the little "tube" which takes oil into the intake cam sprocket. This tube is on the inside of the intake valve timing control cover - part no. 14 on list in my manual. i know this is a very, very long shot,but does anyone have a couple of these lying around? This is going to delay my first drive by who knows how long - for the sake of 2 tiny plastic rings!!! Aarghh!!! btw i have already pm'd alex! thanks for looking,

Decided to have a go at dying the alezan handbrake grip, gear knob and steering wheel, black. And i will refurbish the bolster on the drivers seat. Ordered the necessaries from jackie at buffalo leather (a delight to deal with btw) after reading 4Re leathers comments.

keyser, the timing chain case is totally intact - its off atm cos i'm replacing the exhaust cam - see "intake backfire" i was thinking it may from the bottom of a piston skirt, but i dont know the thickness of that bit