gareth29

I suppose the reason why no. 1 cyl seems ok is that its the one you've timed the engine by, so it would have been at tdc compression and therefore when you ran the engine there would be no possibility of valve damage - unlike no.s 3 and 5 which may have suffered damage due to the sprocket being bolted back on wrongly?

You're not selling them then?

that may be a factor - the manual warns you specifically never to remove those - but I'm not quite sure what goes on inside those sprockets!

They are? Duke of Edinburgh is Greek. When he came to the UK he changed his name to Mountbattern. He started chatting up (these days i guess its called grooming) the Queen when she was 13, then got her Dads permission to marry her. When they got married, he got upset when the Queen wouldnt change her name from Windsor to Mountbattern when they married. Just had a quick peruse of your pie reviews - made me smile, esp the calorie count (who's counting?). Will have to try a pukka - just thought they were rubbish that fish shops sold. If you're ever in skipton, drake and macefield do award winning meat and potatoe pies and pork pies!

And they're German - someone on here will know their original name they had to drop in favour of Windsor when war broke out. Convert the palaces to luxury hotels, then her madge and all the hangers on can charge wealthy US visitors for personal audiences over breakfast/dinner etc and make them pay their way (pay their taxes).

silly question but i assume you have to have no.1 cylinder at tdc (compression) before you set the flywheel position? - no chance you have it set at tdc (exhaust)? did you remove the fly to do the work on the cylinders?

I'm sure I read some where on the us website 350z tech that said that "even nissan technicians" had problems getting rebuilt engines to run properly if everything wasnt connected up/set up perfectly before starting. Did you disconnect the battery after you refitted the flywheel? Just thinking that you may have confused the ecu if you didnt?

If its the complete unit inc fans it'll take 30 mins max, theres just a couple of bolts at the top, a couple of electrical connectors to pull, one or two bits to move out of the way and thats it.

Don't know why I haven't asked for help on this before but...there's a leak coming from between the rear timing case and the block just below the exhaust cam on the left bank. I have tried sealing it with a two-part epoxy material and it is better, but there is still a mini puddle of oil/muck etc on the undertray. What was odd before I did the repair was that it only appeared to leak once the engine was turned off - then a steady drip appeared on the underside of the timing case dripping onto the ac compressor. I turned the engine on/off a couple of times and noted the the same thing happening each time. At the moment I am trying to steel myself to take off timing case (front and back) and re-seal it, but if anyone can suggest anything else that has a chance of sorting it, I will be all ears! Cheers

Hi, i'm looking for the outside trim/seal between the top of the door and the window (nearside). The plastic strap that accepts the screw to the door has broken on mine. Cheers

Is this the mount at the back of the gbox on top of the cross member - whats involved?

Just put the molyslip in and about half a liter of oil and the gearbox is transformed - smooth as silk, the change change into 2nd is perfect and i can heel and toe again - feels like a different car Thanks for this tip

pm sent

A fleeting glimpse, I flashed - is that the done thing amongst zedders? I've had a few alfas and it was with them.

Looked very clean, sorry if i stepped off the kerb a little late!

Thanks for the posts chaps, v helpful and all v interesting - like the sound of yours kiingsi - assume it sounds different again when under load. I am wondering how difficult it would be to fab some decats myself - are they straight pipes?

Looks great, really whet my appetite, tho i'm a trackday and z newbie - i want to try cadwell - its not too far and it looks so fast and technical. Am going to change pads/discs before i do tho, and get a lid etc

Mornin, anyone got experience of this option? - dont really want the expense of hfcs etc but would like a ranchier soundtrack? On the rasping/non-rasping zorst debate i am definately on the "non" side - i want a nice grumble at low revs and a bowel moving bellow at full beans! Ok maybe not bowel moving!

Just a couple of things - why do you need to change the oil anyway? Its not as if it get contaminated like the oil in the engine, or does it? I'm definitley goin to add some molyslip tho - another thought - isnt it fluid drag between the synchro cones that matches their speeds? If this operation relied on friction surely something like molyslip would stop them working almost entirely and you'd have a very crunchy gbox? Somebody please explain

Another job to do then - mine is quite obstructive from 1st to 2nd - I will try this.

mmm, the 370z ones look nice,but need a big hole for all the gubbins behind the light and theyre £30 quid each - on ebay and i've already bought a 350z one - which looks pathetic value at £19, basically just the lens, from the stealership (been wanting to use that word). dremel would be good, but i'd need to get one. thanks for all the help

Only the 3rd Z I've seen on the road! Nice covering of road grime, very nice noise, what a good looking car - and i've got one, still cant believe it actually.

cheers for the help, think i will follow your advice - the jigsaw might make a mess if it snatches

thanks you two, if it was just a case a drilling one hole, i would have done it but its oval so its a jigsaw job i think - didnt want to butcher the new panel if i could avoid it

Just about to replace the ns wing and the one i've bought doesnt have a hole for the side indicator repeater, not sure why. Is it likely to fail an mot on this?