gareth29

Arent the damper different on the uk cars - retuned for our potholed roads? I remember reading an article in evo about it - The nissan technology centre (somewhere down south) did the work.

had something similar but it was because my idling speed was too high - so around town the revs would surge when i declutched - really annoying and it made for very jerky progress - a pedal dance seems to have really improved things

congrats - i got mine when i was 50!!! my insurance is a bit cheaper tho

Happily, the bonnet is aluminium, so will not rust. On the subject of rusty wings - I found quite a few zeds with rust bubbling thru form the inside, so the first thing i did when i bought one was to clean (and underseal) out the lip around the wheel arches esp the rear oneis cos it really collects a lot of mud and moisture - ideal for corrosion to start

an interesting read, good luck!

does anyone know why it is that the windscreengets misted up worst, rather than the side windows ?

i assume it must take the cabin longer to warm up on a morning with ac on?

I had a similar problem on my vw and it turned out to be the clutch pulley on the alternator, which had seized. Theres plenty on youtube about them. I changed the pulley and it was instantly cured. Not 100% sure the z has one but most modern cars do apparently.

does it do it when you turn the wheel when stationary?

my vw sharan is terrible for this (much worse than the zed - and its awful when it freezes on the inside of the screen

nice first car!

silly question, but have you got the recirculate air button pressed?

could be the cap on the expansion tank not sealing properly? have you tried leaving it idling until it gets really hot - fans coming on - and seeing if you can see any evidence of steam/coolant escaping? also, i think if you have air in the system it can cause loss like this - there may be a point where you can bleed air out of it - i had to do this on my z as it was losing coolant. the bleed valve will be at the highest point in the system.

i had a similar problem getting the bolts out of an exhaust flange - turned out they were splined. I took it to a chap and he used a little air tool which was like a little impact hammer and they came out pretty quickly. If your drill has a hammer setting it may have the desired effect?

he has made a nice job of it though - however, just noticed the poverty spec brakes, just spoils the look.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9E1-NzoESg some ideas for you, for when the money situation is happier!

Make sure your phone will work with it before you buy - some samsungs dont, iphones are ok.

Thanks for all the help - took me about 10 goes in the end! For something so simple it has the capacity to really go awry - got it all done a couple of times at least, then disaster - revved the engine during the 20 sec idle period!!, another effort ended when i forgot to dip the clutch and was wondering why it wouldnt start! Anyway it seems tons better, idling at 800 with ac on and no problems during my test drive - no flaring of revs when declutching, much smoother tooling around the village - so hopefully i havent fried the ecu! Right, just the oil leak to sort, drivers seat to refurb, front wings to polish........

just looked at a youtube video - "24 hour battery reset and idle air relearn 350z 2007 nissan" - now worried i might need a new ecu

Its would be advisable to inflate the tyres over and above 35psi - or put it on body jacks. Also an oil change? My vw grew a nice selection of fungi on the carpet and seats over the winter, so a periodic wipe might be a good idea.

thanks, will try it again tomorrow - i have done it successfully before. The problem with the revs not dropping below 1500 is that you cant simply lift off to slow down (depending what gear youre in) you have to declutch - this is around town and going slowly mostly. The revs should drop quickly to idle no matter what speed youre doing. Does any one know what the effect of moving the butterfly is? - should i disconnect the battery before doing the pedal dance? Does an uprev help with this type of thing?

Been reading some related posts recently and realised that I may have created a problem for myself. The motor was idling at very low rpm so I embarked on a throttle body and MAF clean. Now for some confessions: - I didnt disconnect the battery - I moved the butterfly, as far as it would go - a few times (now I read this is a big no no) The clean lifted the idle speed to a pleasant 800 or so, usually, but very often its idling at 1500 and hanging on to revs when changing gear. All this makes for jerky, frustrating progress at times. After the clean I did all the idle air/closed throttle posn resets, then the pedal dance, but never got the cel to blink. Can anyone offer any suggestions?

Just like mine! only with touring wheels.

very nice

Thanks very much for the posts, its much clearer now.