Ceejay29

There is no denying that the UK GT Spec is more desirable and will hold its money far better, but their are some nice JDM's out there. I have owned a Fairlady for approximately 18 months now and do not have any regrets, bought it based on its service history and modifications.We haven't had any issues regarding fault codes, all have been identifiable though our Snap-on Modis code reader - I am sure that most garages will have something similar which is capable of reading codes. As mentioned above there are key additional extras or upgrades with the UK GT, such as Brembos, electric leather seats and electrical compatibility (SAT-NAV, Bluetooth etc). Out of the majority the only thing I would have wanted are the Brembo brakes as the JDM ones look pants, especially when you run 19's! You will find a 'decent' JDM cheaper than a 'decent' UK GT but consider the cost of upgrading certain parts. No point in saving a grand on a JDM if you then have to spend that on Brembo's for example.

Morning chaps, What are your opinions on these stats? I didn't want neg 3 camber at the rear due to tyre wear and surface contact, although this is necessary until I have further arch work carried out.

Right fellow forum members, after a long drive it seams to have rectified itself I parked on a level surface and it was back to normal, panic over. I will probably measure it all regardless this weekend for peace of mind. All I can guess is that it was a result of being parked on a steep hill with a dodgy handbrake for a few days. The hand brake seems to grip much better at the OSR, therefore I presume this took the brunt of the weight when facing down compressing the shocker. Had to resettle as mentioned above. Thanks for the wise words of advice, no doubt it will come in handy in the near future.

I have been adjusting the ride height with the car in the air, using the ramp at the garage. Could have been on a slight gradient but I have noticed it whilst parked in two different areas. I will have another look tonight when it is parked in the car park, with the handbrake off as I think I holds better on one side. It drives fine, just looks like somebody boss-eyed has set it up.

Ah ok, I have been using a vernier gauge. I will check using your suggested method too. Thanks Neilp

Hi all, I have recently ditched the stretched tyre look for some extra rubber, consequently I need to lift the suspension a little on the rear as I now have a profile that laps the rim edge - it's a bit cosy! It has also become apparent that the OSR is lower than the NSR, which I haven't noticed before. I am pretty sure I measured it accurately (to the mm) during the last ride height adjustment made. Could something be broken? I am going to have a look at it this weekend, anything I should check for? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks CJ

Quick update following the odd question; the width of the wheel in the photograph is 9.5 inch. This allows the tyre stretch to be gauged in relation to a wheel width you may have.

Liking the look of the strut brace . Great upgrade for the tired looking oem

Not got any fitted pics as yet but if you want to take some I will knock you a tenner off Need confirmation by Monday if anyone wants them at this price Sounds like a good deal - PM me the details and I will make payment

Hi, Here for sale I have two used Falken tyres in very good condition, note that they are not listed as a pair as strictly speaking they are not – as discovered today! Both are the same size 215/35/zr19 and manufacturer, although one is a 452 and the other is a 453. Lots of tread left as you would expect covering approximately 1500-2000 miles over predominantly short journeys. 6.5-7mm tread remaining, slight reduction on the inner edge due to a natural negative camber resulting from lowering the car. The reason for sale is that I wanted to ditch the stretched look for extra rubber, an increase in ride height and reduction in spacer width permitted this. These were mildly stretched on the front, you would never know looking at the tyre walls - perfect. Now running 225 on the front and 255 on the rear (just), so an expensive start to the new year for me! A photo of the minor stretch Hoping for £80 per tyre which is roughly a 45% reduction on what I paid for them. Collection only from Bath any time of the day – or I am willing to meet within a reasonable distance to help (this would be outside of office hours). Hopefully somebody can make use of them… Thanks for looking CJ

Oooo tempting. Do they just stick on and how neat is it? Any hi-res images of them fitted?

Brilliant, that will be much faster. Thanks for the heads up Floydbax

Bit of a random one but I have misplaced a wheel nut!! After a single oem one, could go to main dealer but they'd probably try and offload a set. Thanks

Now sold, please lock. Thanks

Yes £30 includes postage of the boss

Here for sale I have an aftermarket steering boss that I have removed from my DE, I presume it will fit later models, but am not 100%. I am not sure of a brand, it does look like a standard Momo boss, but cannot confirm this as there is no sign of a logo (could be unbranded). It is in good used condition and has served its purpose well. Comfortable to use. Reason for sale is that I have fitted a snap off hub and needed a slimline boss to reduce depth. £30 all in or collection from Bath. Thanks for looking.

I had a topic refused within the for sale thread as I didn't include my user name in the images, rightly so. Can I access that advert, is it saved as a draft somewhere? That way I can update it accordingly without re-writing it.Thanks

Thanks GT4, very helpful. Yes I am going to reduce the width of the spacer, change the tyres and maybe tweak the camber more. Thanks again

The steering axis video is great, will look at the other vids. Thanks for the help guys, will let you know how I get on

Not sure about the offset as I didn't purchase and fit them, again something else I need to establish

Apologies not sure why it was posted twice. My reasoning behind the spacer exaggerating the negative camber is based upon a theory of the wheel begin fixed at the top by the adjustable camber arm and pushed out further lower down by the spacer. Makes sense in my head but probably not for somebody with more mechanical competence.

Hi Guys, I am after some advice regarding camber and wheel spacers. I have lowered the zed substantially on coilovers, run 19inch wheels and 30mm spacers (size determined by original owner – need to confirm this) that also acts as a PCD converter. After fitting adjustable camber arms all round, I decided to arrange a geometry, toe and camber set up. To my amazement I am running -2 degrees at the front before adjustment, which I would deem dangerous as I have a low profile stretched tyre (225/35) meaning that the inside rim edge is precariously close to the road surface. I cannot add any positive camber as the arm is fully extended, is this a direct consequence of running a spacer that is too large? If so can simply send it off to be reduced in width? Thanks

Hi Guys, I am after some advice regarding camber and wheel spacers. I have lowered the zed substantially on coilovers, run 19inch wheels and 30mm spacers (size determined by original owner – need to confirm this) that also acts as a PCD converter. After fitting adjustable camber arms all round, I decided to arrange a geometry, toe and camber set up. To my amazement I am running -2 degrees at the front before adjustment, which I would deem dangerous as I have a low profile stretched tyre (225/35) meaning that the inside rim edge is precariously close to the road surface. I cannot add any positive camber as the arm is fully extended, is this a direct consequence of running a spacer that is too large? If so can simply send it off to be reduced in width? Thanks