RobPhoboS

This is going to be a bit of a long post, apologies ! 2004 350z - DE - 135k (burning a bit of oil but no streams of smoke! - full bottom end rebuild this coming winter - funds pending) Dyno session 1 Over Christmas I did my timing chain (no issues before, just age/mileage) and I decided to do cams (JWT C8), springs, revup oil pump, water pump etc. On the first dyno session, aside from these things done the car had stock headers, stock intake, straight pipes, cobra sports y-pipe back (2x 2.5" to 3", then 3" back). Intake temp:10 deg (Feb) 310bhp (@fly) (it's a comparison to my first dyno there back in Nov 2012) WHP/AFR Dyno session 2 The next dyno session I had added the following by this point: Kaaz 1.5 diff Z1 'Race' intake with the large 6" velocity stack and filter Kinetix Velocity 75mm TB Note - the very first runs we did had the stock intake connected, we noticed it was down and thought it was odd. So I then installed the Z1 intake but the dyno was the same. So my initial conclusion was that the Kinetix was causing the loss but clearly started to extend the power curve further to the right. hmmm I had assumed (with a couple of other folks) that my car could breath in properly but not out, however it doesn't seem that was really the full issue. Intake temp: 24 deg (May) 292bhp (@ fly) WHP/AFR Dyno session 3 PPE long tube headers (JWT advised spec on these). HP Ignition coilpacks (decided to refresh them as I had original ones on the car). Fresh plugs. Motordyne XYZ-pipe with resonator. Intake temp: 25-27 deg (Aug) 300bhp (@fly) Pink line is from May, so you can see the PPE's have gained at the lower end at least. Knock detection disabled (was troubleshooting idea) Once again comparison to Feb (WHP) Ok, so we made the low end come up nicer now, and the curve itself looks quite nice - however, the numbers aren't, in comparison to my initial run of the year. Jez also disabled the knock sensor for a couple of runs too, just in case that was causing a problem, it made a few more hp but nothing obviously wrong there. This seems like either the Kinetix is struggling for some reason (but hasn't on other cammed NA cars - it stretches the power curve to the right), or something else has gone wrong (timing?). Engine parts as of August 2019: Uprev tune Kinetix Velocity plenum JWT C8 Cams & springs Z1 3" Race intake with 6" velocity stack/large filter Ferra stem seals PPE Longtube headers (spec advised by JWT) RevUp oil pump Motordyne resonated Y-pipe 3" back Cobra Sports resonated exhaust New waterpump/timing chain/gallery gaskets/o-rings etc Stock heads/bottom end (rebuilding in winter) Stock injectors HP Ignition coils I did a dry comp test back in Nov, the results were around 185-195psi. After doing the cams this year my compression was down to around 155psi. JWT said that the pressure would be down perhaps by 15psi but not to this extent. So maybe I didn't do the November testing correctly (I'm sure I did) but with this current one I know I did it properly for sure. I decided to do a wet compression test, followed a day later by a leak down test, here are my results: Wet Comp was about 7% more than dry (around 165psI). Leak Down (I'd imagine anything over 8% isn't ideal but I knew the rings are worn): So that confirms what I knew anyway, the rings are worn (no problem as bottom end stuff is waiting to go in). I couldn't hear any obvious air leaking or bubbles in the coolant overflow. Could that result just be a mix of the C8's/rings and the relatively low HP readings due to rings ? I've messaged back and forth with a few of you on here (plus JWT and the US forum), and your input has been hugely appreciated !

Yup, seems ok from the computer but definitely slow on the phone.

The H-Dev Decats have gone. However the resonated ones are still available. And I'll get pics/prices up for the Y pipe tomorrow.

I'll get some photos up ASAP, latest by Saturday Hi there, someone else has messaged regarding these (a day before), however I'll keep you posted if they decide for the resonated or these h-dev non resonated ones

To help out whom ever you end up choosing, spray the crap out of the bolts and tie rod ends in something like wd40 (much better stuff out there but you probably have a can at home) the night before. It may make the difference between a quick and painless job, to something like Alex pointed out.

Unless you have full adjustable suspension, you aren't getting a full alignment anywhere. Is your car stock ?

Hey guys, I just wondered if anyone here has an UpRev cable that they aren't using at the moment, to either buy/rent/borrow ? Many thanks !

Expecting this kind of thing !

Please post up a Dyno Godisme, I've watched a few of your vids on yt as I was also following your build thread on the US forum too I wanted to ask you a few things too

Check YouTube as you'll need to pedal dance it to get it to sod off. (I had to, odb scanner couldn't)

Hi, they're still available. (Synx was looking for front + rear wheels) Note, my old Cobra y-pipe is also available now. It's not leaking but the flexi braiding is starting to go on the outside, so I'd get them replaced sooner than later.

For what use & budget? Road? Track? R&T ?

Can you take a photo/upload of your steering wheel when your wheels are pointed straight ?

I replaced my knackered one (on my 350z) with a Mishimoto one, it's huge compared to the OEM cooler but very handy if you use the car on track. Note, it can be quite the messy job !

If you're doing the brace, and if it's seriously corroded the support brackets will be a total mess as well. And yes, these will get picked up on an MOT too. I did my W brace and these 2 at the same time: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/8806-350z-nissan-oem-rear-suspension-member-stay-bracket-right-55451-cd001.html?search_query=350z+brace&results=45 https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/braces/8863-350z-nissan-oem-rear-suspension-member-stay-bracket-left-55452-cd001.html?search_query=350z+brace&results=45 Although if you're selling up, it's an added cost for sure ! (worth poking your head underneath quickly to see the state of them)

I've updated the description for the wheels/tyres (offers welcome), and I've added the resonated pipes and brake discs.

Hi, apologies for the slow reply, I didn't spot this. Yes they're still available.

Hmm, think I may have worked it out now. Ensure wheels are pointed straight (can centre the steering rack by figuring out lock to lock and half it first if needs be). Centre steering wheel, secure it so it won't turn. Pop u-joint/yoke thing on the upper steering rod first, slide it upwards and then get the lower section on the other splined part. I imagine the centre split on the lower u-joint lines up with that sticking out notch thing (above the right pipe). Sling everything back together and hopefully the car steers straight now.

So this dipstick here put paint marks on the upper end of the u-joint rather than the lower end. Unbeknownst to me, I didn't know that the top half can only go in one way. So my question is, how do you orient this back in the correct way (ie so the steering wheel isn't angled off centre)? I can see a little protrusion on the steering rack, and on the lower splined bolt (that the joint slides over) it has a circular indentation. For now I lined up the lower u-joint with the circular indentation on the splined bolt it goes over. However, that doesn't line up with the protrusion. So does this mean I need to slide the joint off and turn the splined bolt a little? Note, my steering wheel is being held with bungee cords, so as not to turn the wheel and potentially break the clock spring thingy. I know I previously had it wrong as the steering wheel was turned quite far right when I was driving straight (and yes it triggered the slip angle/TCS lights over 20mph) . Cheers for any help! & Doh

Ignore, now I read how you typed it

Always check the for sale stuff too... I have stuff here if you need it: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/124037-350z-bits-and-pieces-for-sale-tyresdecatscams/

Change company, sounds utterly ridiculous ! Who the heck are you with ?

Hey guys, Am I right in thinking that the HR manifold gaskets fit the DE engine ? I forgot to order a set of gaskets and I'll be embarking on the manifold install this weekend

Many thanks guys, probably didn't help that I wrote it near 1am on a Sunday night !

Ah, cheers @SuperStu (now I see what I forgot!) Hey @Tomo, I don't have any of the trim bits, I would have thought @ZMANALEX would have something like that ?